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Still tapping after valve adjustment. Header bolt stripped out in the head also.

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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:20 AM
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Still tapping after valve adjustment. Header bolt stripped out in the head also.

Let me start by saying that I am somewhat mechanically inclined. However, I am new to the Toyota world.

I did a valve adjustment two days ago according to the Chilton/Haynes manual. Ran it until it got to operating tempature, set the timing mark at 0, made sure rockers arem on the #1 cylinder were loose. I set the #1 and #4 valve clearances and .008 and the #2 and #6 valve clearances at .012. I then turned the crankshaft 360 degrees, setting the mark at 0, and set #5 and #8 valves at .008 and the #3 and #7 valves at .012.

I replaced the gasket, grommets, and u-shaped things. I made sure not to over-tighten the valve cover. I have no leaks at all, but the valves (or what I assume is the valves are still tapping. I even checked the spark plugs and plug wires, they are good.

I went through the entire process again, this time with the engine cold, set intake to .007 and exhaust to .011, still no change.

Any suggestions on how to fix this? I have heard the injectors can be noisy, could that be the culprit.

Also, how to I repair a stripped exhause manifold bolt the the PO neglected to tell me about? Shouls I just Heli-coil it?

Sorry for the long post, trying to kill two birds with one stone.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:37 AM
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The valve train on the 22re is just loud. I've adjusted mine many times, to a couple different specs and they still are still very audible, I finally gave up and just ignore it. The engine runs well so I don't see any need to worry about it.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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That is what I wanted to hear, thanks. Any ideas on the exhaust manifold stud.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:46 AM
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I'm not really sure I've never had to do it but a helicoil would probably work pretty well.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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Yeah they are naturally noisy. The local mechanic told me to try adjusting mine just one notch tighter than spec.. i havent gotten around to it yet but you might give that a try.

As far as the manifold bolt i would just helicoil it
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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The only time I had a queit valve train is when It was all from brand new out of the box parts. other wise the older motors where a little noisy regardless where I adjusted it.

Lets just hope your not mistakeing valve tick for something else I have been guilty of that
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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I will try a notch tighter tonight, getting pretty good at it, done it twice in two days. Thanks for the advice.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:35 AM
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plumbrbod, what else could it be?
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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I fought with noisy valves and lifters with my engine when I first got my truck for a long time and then I finally found a solution. I turned my radio up. It's a 22re. The valve noise just means it's healthy.

One thing I would check would be the timing chain and the guides. Make sure the guides are not broken and that the tensioner is doing it's job keeping the chain tight. Those things will make alot of noise if they are shot. I pulled my valve cover off yesterday just to see. It gave me some piece of mind.

If it all looks good crank up the radio!!!!

Oh the fuel injectors can be heard clicking too. They are a high-pitched tap. Those are fine.

Last edited by Chutchman; May 6, 2009 at 09:53 AM.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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Timing chain and guides looked good. I guess a new radio and speakers couldn't hurt.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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I've heard it run and it aint the timing chain just tapping valves. Glad you learned to adjust them Shane. Tap goes away with rpms so that is what I figured it was.

Stripped out stud or hole? Helicoil or drill tap new stud.

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Old May 6, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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Took another thousandth out. Purrs like a kitten. Thanks everyone for your help.
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