i was wondering if anyone has taken this vale out and how it worked i am considering doing it my self

 

Why? Did you do a rear disc brake conversion? Why?

Ah, and Welcome to Yotatech!! Remember, searching is your friend!!!

 

i just tied it up with wire. it works really well. i havnt had any problems with it. just sometimes under hard breaking the rear end of the truck will start to skid. but other than that it works great.

 

I yanked all that crap off. One line going to the back from tha master. Works perfect. Did it to my runner and my pickup.

 

Why are you guys removing the valve? Isn't it there for a reason?

 

I was about to post the same question as bonehead. My rear end took a crap and I found a Tacoma TRD rear with an e-locker so I bought it and installed it. I reinforced the Tacoma rear end since I had the chance, but I don't want to weld brackets again to install the rod leading to the LSPV.
So if I leave it out, I'll be ok? What could go wrong?

 

I took them out because of 2 things.

A. 3 rotten lines to look after
B. pain in the $ss to bleed the brakes.

 

@bonehead- search the forums for LSPV and you should get quite the abundance of responses with all the information you need.

@Baja Toy- as mentioned, the main thing that can happen is that under hard braking and light loading the rear wheels will lock up before the front wheels and cause the rear to slide around on you. At least put a manual proportioning valve in so you can have some control over the braking force when loaded / unloaded.

@Flash319- you're just lazy.

 

Idk why you would want to remove it but you can cut it off and add a manual proportioning valve in line somewhere

 

I just bled my brakes & my valve is still there, I had no problems what so ever.

 

x2.

That rod also makes a sweet place to zip tie your diff breather hose to!

 

@Flash319- you're just lazy. [/QUOTE]

Smart people seam lazy sometimes because it is so effortless

oh ya and I have said it a hundread times before, there is no such thing as a manual proportioning valve that you can put inline. And if there is someone please explain to me where the pressure goes.


Thats what I thought.

 

uh... a pressure reducing valve that can have the bias between input and output pressures adjusted manually is a manual proportioning valve and they've been around just about as long as hydraulics have. You've got them on the natural gas and water mains to your house / apartment / condo... and maybe your bbq grill... but they call them 'regulators'.

 

Huh? Guess I'll go take a picture of mine then...

 

when the pressure gets too high, the pressure blocks itself- not too hard to consider if there's a spring that adds its pressure to the valve.

 

 

 

say you've got a pressure source of 1600 PSI and you want to be able to limit it to 1400 PSI... if you have a spring on a valve that applies 400 PSI, and the preload on that spring is adjustable, you can turn in the adjuster so that the 1600 of the fluid fed back into a valve that when the 400 of the spring is added to is enough to cut off the fluid supply until the fluid pressure drops below a certain value.

 

I removed mine and have since removed my MPV because of a leak and some stripped threads. I must have an air bubble in the rear line because my brakes feel great and the back end never locks up. Could also be the rear anti-lock working for me........

 

whoa... nice deflection!!!
"... must have an air bubble... back end never locks up."
slick
"Could also be the rear anti-lock...." for the 3-point score?