i just went to my local offroad shop to discuss some options for my 88 4runner.

i bought 33x10.5s this past weekend, and my right pinch weld is cutting the tread even though i tried beating it with a hammer as best i could.

so i figured i'd stop by this offroad place and ask about putting in a 1" BL, and also about replacing my rear springs since they are flat and using shackles that are really two pairs of 7" metal plates with holes in them.

they tell me they don't have a 1" BL, but if i want to get the one (from 4crawler.com that I mentioned), they will install it for $500. then they recommended an add-a-leaf and new shackles for the back. the total will be $1300.

does this sound a little expensive or what? any recommendations?

 

yes that is pretty steep to install a 1 inch body lift. the local offraod shop in my town charges 350 to install a 3inch body lift and i thought that was expensive

 

Sounds way expensive. Shop around more or look for some writeups on how to do it yourself. I never did one but it doesnt sound that hard.

 

ive done one, its not hard at all. just make sure u have more people to help u lift the body so you can install the spacer.

 

thanx fellas. i thought that was a little high but wanted to make sure i wasn't just being a cheapskate. i know good work should be paid for, but i felt like i walked into a really expensive place. lifted hummers everywhere and i roll in with my little yota asking about ball joint spacers and no one knew what i was talking about.

 

Yeah, bodylifts (especially a 1 inch) installs are mad easy, do it yourself and save the green. As for the rear end, forget the add a leaf. Get a new set of springs or do a chevy spring swap (cheaper and better ride).

 

yeah thats what shops around here charge.. its pretty steep. Its not hard but its an all day thing for sure.

 

Another option for the rear is the "ZUK Coil mod"

 

I installed a 4Crawler 1" body lift and it's very easy to do. No way I would pay someone $500. The instructions that are on 4Crawler's site are very easy to follow. All you need is a few sockets and a good jack.

 

Lets say you happen to have the 1300$ they want for the AAL and the body lift install.

Take that cash and order a set of lift springs and the body lift and install them yourself. With the money you save by not having the shop do it you can order new shocks to match the now level rig and still have money left to buy new tools to install all the stuff you just ordered.


I look at it like this. I can spend XXXX$ on parts and labor to put them in. Or I can spend 40% of the XXXX$ on the parts to get them to my door and spend the other 60% of the XXXX$ on tools to do the job right. This does two things.

1) I gain knowledge of my vehicle.
2) I have more tools for the next rig and more knowledge on how to fix it.

 

i'm reviewing the instructions now. i'll have to borrow a floor jack but i think i can do it. i'm placing my order with 4crawler this week. thanx for the input that its not a difficult job.

my limitation these days is difficulty working with arms over my head. since a bike wreck in '03, i can't do it but a few mins at a time. but i'm moving to a place with a garage this week so if i cant finish in one day i can leave it. i'm pretty stoked on getting a garage.

 

I so wish I had a garage to do my work in... but yeah, that'll help out a lot with the install if you have somewhere to leave the truck if you can't finish it in a day. There isn't much arm over head work either, just the body mount nuts from the underside. Start soaking all them nuts with pb blaster once a day like a week in advance and they should come right out provided you don't have major rust problems.

 

Paying a skilled laborer's high rate to install something as simple as a body lift will be steep no matter how you do it because of the time that goes into it. You need to beat your pinch weld back a little more i've easily cleared 33's on stock saggy susupension.

If you want to body lift you can install it yourself with a basic socket set.

 

do it yourself if you have some mechanic skills. The key is to lift one side at a time but loosen the bolts on both sides.

 

I installed 4crawlers 1" BL in 3 hrs. I didn't have to move my radiator or anything. Just loosened the steering shaft, loosened the hardware on one side, removed the hardware on the other side, installed the new puck w/ hardware (leaving it loose), removed hardware on other side, installed new, tightened it all down too 28ftlbs. I used a floor jack and two 4x4 pieces of lumber when lifting each respective side. don't forget to re-tighten your steering shaft (mine pulled out about 1/2").

 

only thing i will ever pay to have done on my truck is alignment, because that's something you want perfect.

 

3 hours labor tops. They were trying to rip you off.

Don't go back there.

 

500 for a 1" is ridicoulous. the body lift better be coated in gold. the lift should cost no more than 120 maybe 130 so they want another 370 for 8 bolts removed and replaced. buy the kit and do it yourself. i have a semi write up on an 02 if you want an idea. look at my profile.

 

well i just placed my order with 4crawler for my 1" kit and new body bushings just in case. the rubber ones dont look bad but y'never know how they'll come out. i talked to a buddy who's going to help me out with the jack so it should be good to go.

thanx for the tip on the steering shaft, i've read a couple good write ups on it and i'll review them again, but with everyone saying its easy, and reaffirming no probs with the radiator, i'm excited to give it a shot.

i also order his 1.5 bj spacers so i can set my t-bars properly as well and align it up.

next step after that, doing something about my leaf springs. i'll post some pics in a new thread of my flat springs and crazy home made shackles and get y'all's advice on that. i'm not sure how to choose which springs, 3", 4", or which shackles, but i'll be reading all weekend to see what has worked with 33's. blocks? a-a-l? good lord so many choices. i don't want to have to move perches, which i think i read is necessary for the 63"s.

thanx again and hope you all have a great weekend!
tj

 

hey WABBIT:

have you done any work with SCH 40 black steel pipe? i used to work with that a lot when i did fire sprinkler work and wondered if that was suitable for bumper fab, and how it compared to DOM and HREW which i've read about here.

thanx bro!