Getting a game plan for tools/parts to replace the timing belt/waterpump on a couple of 5vzfe (mine and the wife's truck).

Anyone actually used the rope trick in the #1 cylinder to hold the crank from spinning while you tighten the bolt?
Wouldn't you bend a valve? I'd prefer not to built a tool if I don't have to.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

Cloth over crank pull with chain wrench.

 

I know all the normal tricks with SST/homemade/chainwrench/etc. The rope trick seems the most simple and easiest to do by myself. I know there's a few threads where the idea is suggested, I want to know if anyone has actually done it that way.

 

what's wrong with building a tool? find a solid piece of wood, cut to size (crank bolt to frame rail), drill 2 holes for bolts + cutout hole for socket, torque to 217 ft/lbs. done. took me 5 mins to make, and another 5 mins to torque (with a 4' pipe over the wrench). what's the nylon rope trick? always open to new ideas.

 

Pull spark plug #1, set engine close to TDC, insert a few feet of nylon rope in the cylinder, tighten crank bolt. Or so I've heard.

 

i was under the impression the only 2 things that go in the cylinder are fuel/air... that seems a bit too risky for my tastes. thanks for the info.

 

I'm not going to try it, lets get Mikey.... he'll try anything

Sounds a little too risky to me, but I'm sure someone will get on here and say he's done it many times and it worked fine. It's just scary to me to purposely jam up the engine to remove/tighten a crank bolt. I see stress on the piston, wrist pins, rod, and especially the valves that was probably not included in the engineer's FEA stress models

 

My tool is shown in this thread with info and info from others. Really pretty simple if you can make a quick trip to the hardware store and have a half of a 2x4 left over. I think for loosening the bolt I had it against the frame and for tightening I used the ground - so you have to make it long enough for that.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...50/index2.html

 

I used a 1/2" nylon rope. I didn't put it in the cylinder though. I threaded it through the hole in the frame just below the crank pulley and wrapped it around the pulley. While having a friend hold the rope taught, I used a large breaker to remove the crank bolt. Worked really well for removal and installation.

 

Put a impact socket on a breaker bar or large ratchet and strap or clamp it to the frame rail. Then go bump the starter. Just make sure you disconnect the coils or pull a fuse so the engine won't fire. I've done this multiple times and you'll be surprised how easy it is.

 

That's how the guys in my service dept do it most of the time. It's dangerous though. Be careful and make sure you rest the breaker against the correct side of the frame. If the bar makes a half revolution through your engine bay, it can get ugly.