Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Replaced heater core - STILL NO HEAT! HULK SMASH!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 08:39 PM
  #1  
Asha'man's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Elbert, CO
Replaced heater core - STILL NO HEAT! HULK SMASH!

I'm so ****ing pissed right now. I just spent my day replacing the heater core in my '85 2wd pickup because it wouldn't blow hot air at all. Checked the valve - fine. Backflushed the old core till it ran clear and tested it. Still no heat after that, so I pulled everything apart and replaced the core. Got it back in and together enough to test, filled up the system and warmed up the truck, and I still haven't got **** for heat. It trickles out of the floor vents and is lukewarm (at least that's warmer than it used to be) but the air coming out of the dash vents is minimal at best and is mostly cool. I don't have **** for airflow either. What the **** is going on here?
Reply
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #2  
a4runnerfreak's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,592
Likes: 0
From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Did you check your blower motor, and relay, and switch? Those are the only things I can think of to check 'bout your airflow. As for your low heat with new heater core, I haven't the foggest. You are running a t-stat, right? Right mixture of water and coolant?

Last edited by a4runnerfreak; Jan 10, 2009 at 09:13 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #3  
NYChopshop's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Back in New York City!
there is also a fairly complex set of baffles that move around when you select the different output locations. You should hear the baffles shifting and closing when you move the selector knob. Do you feel air coming out of any or all of the vents? which ones? Does it all appear to work normally but just blows cold? Are you sure you sealed up everything and didn't reverse the polarity on the blower motor for some reason? That would sure make it hard to get hot air into the car! Light a cigarette or incense or something and put it in front of the vents to see where the air is going.
Reply
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #4  
NYChopshop's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Back in New York City!
also try driving your vehicle at highway speeds (or fast road speeds) and crack the windows. turn the heat on. If the blower motor isnt functioning properly, there still should be enough positive suction put on the system to pull hot air out of the vents into the cabin. You could feel that, best done with a non-moron buddy if you've got one. I'm currently in short supply myself.
Reply
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #5  
iamsuperbleeder's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,248
Likes: 33
From: Lake City, Fl
Originally Posted by NYChopshop
try driving your vehicle at highway speeds (or fast road speeds) and crack the windows. turn the heat on. If the blower motor isnt functioning properly, there still should be enough positive suction put on the system to pull hot air out of the vents into the cabin.
I use to do that when my blower motor resister went out

didn't see anyone say anything about it yet, but are you positive you got all of the air from the coolant system? trapped air can cause little to no heat as well

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Jan 10, 2009 at 09:47 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 10:54 PM
  #6  
a4runnerfreak's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,592
Likes: 0
From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Ah, I knew I forgetting something!!!! Proper burping...
Reply
Old Jan 11, 2009 | 12:01 AM
  #7  
myyota's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 11
From: GrangeVille, Idaho
Its possible that the heater duct between the fan housing and heater is full of leaves and crap and needs to be cleaned out, other than that, check the cables that operate the different heater functions, they can break or come loose and that will cause things not to work.
Reply
Old Jan 11, 2009 | 12:04 PM
  #8  
NYChopshop's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Back in New York City!
Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
I use to do that when my blower motor resister went out

didn't see anyone say anything about it yet, but are you positive you got all of the air from the coolant system? trapped air can cause little to no heat as well
best idea ever. I totally spaced on that. I have radiant in-floor heating in my house back in New York, one year I forgot to bleed the air out of the pipes and nearly froze half of the pipes in the concrete with the furnace chugging away on high! narrowly averted catastrophe there.
Reply
Old Jan 12, 2009 | 11:14 AM
  #9  
schmooot's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Prince George, BC, Canada
sounds like you've got an air bubble. Warm the truck up until the t-stat opens, Jack the front of the truck up so that the rad cap is the highest point in the system and slowly remove it. Then run the truck with the heat cranked and it should empty the air out. Then you may need to top it all back up
Reply
Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:03 PM
  #10  
abecedarian's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 6
From: Temecula Valley, CA
You probably already noticed- you have an inlet and outlet to the heater core. basically, the coolant leaves the bottom of the intake manifold, goes behind the engine and up to the flow valve then to the heater core. From the heater core it comes back through the firewall and connects to a pipe that leads to the inlet side of the water pump.
If you disconnect the hose from the pipe that leads under the exhaust manifold to the water pump, then put the heater on hot and crank the engine over, you should get coolant flow from the heater. If you get nothing out- the problem is a clog back towards the heater core- possibly even in the intake manifold. If you get coolant, the pipe to the water pump may be clogged.
Reply
Old Jan 12, 2009 | 08:00 PM
  #11  
Asha'man's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Elbert, CO
Well, I pulled the truck up on a little hillside by my house and burped the system. Got a few bubbles but nothing real impressive. Pulled the dashpad off, finishing destroying it in the process, and got a good look at the broken HVAC controls. The pivot point for the COOL-WARM and the VENT-BI-HEAT-DEF levers had broken off and it was all jacked up. I took a 6/32" hex head machine screw, two 3/16" washers and a nylock and made a new pivot point for those levers, and it felt better and smoother than stock. I adjusted all the cables and pushrods to exactly where they needed to be, and it was perfect. With all those things done, I finally started getting heat. Which was good, because I had to drive the 2wd through 6" of completely unexpected snow on the way to work this morning....

Thanks for your input, y'all.
Reply
Old Jan 12, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #12  
iamsuperbleeder's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,248
Likes: 33
From: Lake City, Fl
good job; glad we could help
Reply
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:45 PM
  #13  
NYChopshop's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Back in New York City!
good to hear you finally got this one taken care of! I suppose if it craps out on you again (or maybe even before it happens), you can cruise over to a salvage yard and pull a spare. Us 2nd gen 'runner owners are a bit spoiled having a wholly separate heating element and electric fan built in to the center console for the back seat in case our main craps out on us.
Reply
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 09:14 PM
  #14  
dub tek's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: 4431OHIO
Originally Posted by NYChopshop
Us 2nd gen 'runner owners are a bit spoiled having a wholly separate heating element and electric fan built in to the center console for the back seat in case our main craps out on us.
are there engine water/coolant lines to a core like a front set-up?

is this rear heater box internal/built-into the center consol?
or does the consol bolt OVER the heater box??

AKA is it a separate unit with core+blower in one box that I could maybee possibly mount in the rear of my first gen...
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2009 | 10:39 PM
  #15  
NYChopshop's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Back in New York City!
its a separate core and blower in one box that well may be mounted in your first gen. I think that would be super cool! you'd have to make the center console fit, but that shouldn't be too hard. The controls, fan, and water to air exchanger are all in the console. I think there are two coolant lines, one send one return, under the body and electrical wires to the fan. I've never had mine pulled up, personally, but I havn't searched the forums for a thread on it yet so I can't guarantee it hasn't been attempted or whether its truly even possible.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2009 | 11:52 PM
  #16  
drew303's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,880
Likes: 2
From: Olympia, WA
all these replies about coolant...

he clearly stated that he was getting a lack of airflow, over lack of heat -> If no air is moving your not gonna get warm air.

Glad he found the problem tho.

I have to tear into mine and unclog the vents.. full of leaves, ugh. such a pita.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:50 AM
  #17  
874runnersr5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 11
From: Calgary, AB Canaduh
i hate thoese stupid piviot points, i replaced mine a while ago... then last week it broke off

i just gave up lol.
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #18  
Skoalbandit's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: South Shore, MA
i know i'm digging up an old thread, but is it possible to take the console with rear heat and rig it into an xtra cab pickup with bucket seats? anyone try it? in my head it makes sense and seems like it could work... the heating system in the dash is crap in my truck, and am ready to bypass the heater core to avoid being anymore frustrated with it. but if i bypass the front system, could i rig up the 4runner rear system to work? just a thought...
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #19  
RobD's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,243
Likes: 5
From: Calgary, AB
Though I have no first hand experience with that, I don't see why it wouldn't work. All the rear heat is is a small fan and heater core. You should be able to make it work quite easily. I love mine, because it blows some hot air up around between the seat and the front door. Very nice in the extreme cold.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
msane99
Pre 84 Trucks
4
Jul 17, 2015 10:13 AM
Poncho0206
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
Jul 10, 2015 06:21 PM
Coreyr384
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
2
Jul 10, 2015 11:13 AM
87blyota
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
Jul 10, 2015 04:31 AM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:41 AM.