Can the valve guides in the 22re be removed and replaced, or are they built-in to the head?

When I did the head job a while back, I never thought to take notice of the valve guides. (it was my first head job I did on my own)

 

replaceable

 

I'm going to replace them with the head still on. It has to be done soon, but i dont have time to do the entire head/gasket again.

any tips before i order all the parts? what should i be buying in advance?

 

Truck still burning oil?

 

"...I'm going to replace them with the head still on..."

Ummmm..... Methinks that you are referring to the valve guide seals!

Your gasket set should have included the seals.
They say, that the seals can be replaced without removing the head. The trick is using compressed air (via the spark plug holes) to hold the valves closed.

 

Can't do either with the head on. To get the valve springs off, you need to pull the rockers (that means the head bolts are out) Any compressed air in the cylinder will lift off the head.

The seals are easy, the guides have to be pressed out/in at a machine shop.

 

You might be able to do it without removing the rockers if you back the adjuster screw all the way out. You might be able to work the spring around it. Don't know for sure though, I havn't tried it. The thought just popped in my head.

 

Yup. And I'm sure it's something with the valves.

Ok, I guess I'll just wait a year and do another head job on it. I wanted to do it soon because I need new o2 sensors, and I dont want the smoke damaging the new sensors.

I already replaced the valve guide seals. I was going to replace valve guides next, since the valves themselves are brand new.

 

You could buy a new head...like a performance head or something. Might as well if your tearing into your truck again.

 

I had to reseat one valve guide when I did my rebuild. Put it in the shop oven at 200 degrees F and then pounded back down. I checked the valve guide clearances and all of them were within spec (head at 140K on it).

I imagine you could pound all the guides out after heating the head and then replace them with new guides.

 

That's what I've been considering. Engnbldr has some good prices, but I've seen the same heads on ebay for cheaper. Maybe engnbldr has a warranty.

Oil levels have been staying about the same now. it's still burning, but slowly. i just checked the coolant overflow and it seems low. i remember filling it almost all the way. I know I have coolant seeping from the water bypass gasket, but I haven't made a new RV gasket for that yet. That's going to be done next sunday for winter preparation.

I'm still guessing it's valve guides. i dont have access to any shop materials, or shop ovens, so pounding and heating up doesnt sound like an option. and since i was planning on getting a performance head anyway, i guess i'll just hold off on any work i was planning on doing.

 

Yeah...sounds like holding off is about your best bet right now.

I'm still burning oil too...not sure if its because the rings haven't seated or what...but I was told to buy a vacuum gauge and hook it up and see whats going on.

Good luck!

 

I just wish there was a local place I could swap my head at. I could get it done in one weekend and one paycheck. Just take in my head, leave with a new one and install it that evening.

I know there's toyota specialists in the denver area, but does anyone know if they have street RV heads? I'll call around.