Idler arm bushings
#1
Idler arm bushings
Steering is getting a bit ugly; I know my idler arm needs some attention. Anybody know a good source for the bushings? I can't stand the thought of buying a new one for something I can fix in about an hour. Not looking for brass just some OEM or better.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
#3
I ordered sway bar bushings, LCA and UCA bushings. Everything I have read regarding the polyurethane bushings has been positive.
http://www.suspension.com/
http://www.suspension.com/
#4
Get the bronze ones from www.custommachiningusa.com
#7
They'll last 20 yrs on road ... my last ones only made it a year, maybe a little longer, with all the 'wheeling I do. From what I can tell, a year sounds pretty good compared to a lot of people!
That's why I went with bronze. They're greaseable too.
That's why I went with bronze. They're greaseable too.
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#8
Just thought I'd throw this out there but I'm running a batch of bronze bushings. We'll be announcing the pricing details in the next week or so. I think they'll be done in about 3-4 weeks but hopefully sooner. I will certainly keep everyone up on our website and I'll subscribe to this thread.
A few details worth mentioning are these:
- The design is for the 2nd gen idler with the larger shaft.
- They have been confirmed to fit the Napa arm NCP2683702
- I'm working to confirm other idler arms. The issue is with the housing ID, some are smaller and won't work. I'll post the measurements soon along with a list of what will and will not fit.
- These are made of an oil impregnated bronze so they do not need to be greased.
- My work with some used idlers revealed how they wear. They typically wear more at the bottom than at the top. This is too bad because that means a bushing that will fit snuggly on the lower part of the shaft won't slide over the rest. If you have an old arm, you'll want to measure the shaft for uniformity, that's enough to confirm there's minimal wear.
I know this is one of those parts that while not expensive to replace can be very annoying to have to do over and over. I think we can provide an affordable solution for what I believe (and hope) to be the most common size idler arm sourced from a reputable aftermarket.
We do have the ability to custom machine these if someone has an arm that falls outside the specs but wants to retain it. I have to be honest, to make sure it's done right the first time you'd need to send in your idler. With shipping and shop time, it's not exactly inexpensive, but it is an option.
Frank
A few details worth mentioning are these:
- The design is for the 2nd gen idler with the larger shaft.
- They have been confirmed to fit the Napa arm NCP2683702
- I'm working to confirm other idler arms. The issue is with the housing ID, some are smaller and won't work. I'll post the measurements soon along with a list of what will and will not fit.
- These are made of an oil impregnated bronze so they do not need to be greased.
- My work with some used idlers revealed how they wear. They typically wear more at the bottom than at the top. This is too bad because that means a bushing that will fit snuggly on the lower part of the shaft won't slide over the rest. If you have an old arm, you'll want to measure the shaft for uniformity, that's enough to confirm there's minimal wear.
I know this is one of those parts that while not expensive to replace can be very annoying to have to do over and over. I think we can provide an affordable solution for what I believe (and hope) to be the most common size idler arm sourced from a reputable aftermarket.
We do have the ability to custom machine these if someone has an arm that falls outside the specs but wants to retain it. I have to be honest, to make sure it's done right the first time you'd need to send in your idler. With shipping and shop time, it's not exactly inexpensive, but it is an option.
Frank
#9
i've got a quick question related to idler arm bushing replacement...
i did the Kragen $3 ea replacement bushings for my idler arm a little while back and could never get the dome-cap back over the top - is this a true necessity to have on there? it was a total pain to get it off without gouging the heck out of the lip on it and i figure i'll have to do it again sometime down the road, and those idler arm braces don't use them, so i just left it off.
i did the Kragen $3 ea replacement bushings for my idler arm a little while back and could never get the dome-cap back over the top - is this a true necessity to have on there? it was a total pain to get it off without gouging the heck out of the lip on it and i figure i'll have to do it again sometime down the road, and those idler arm braces don't use them, so i just left it off.
#11
I have some slight slop in my steering when going over 40mph. Nothing major but seems noticeble when there is a change in the road. I have been wondering if it was the idler arm bushings. What do you guys think? Do you have any write-ups for replacing the bushings. Newb here.
#12
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
There is a idler arm rebuild writeup in the tech section 
Hey Frank, Looking forward to the news on them brass bushings. Im sick and tired of replacing mine (toyota oem) after every 1-2 wheeling trips... Sure its easy, but it gets anoying after the 100th time

Hey Frank, Looking forward to the news on them brass bushings. Im sick and tired of replacing mine (toyota oem) after every 1-2 wheeling trips... Sure its easy, but it gets anoying after the 100th time
#15
#16
I have some information here which will go on the website but here it is.
Napa's lower end idler arm which they spec for a 2nd gen is identical to the 1st gen. It has the smaller weaker shaft. I strongly recommend not buying it.
The Duralast idler arm (Autzone FA 5040) which is quite affordable has a larger shaft than the top of the line Napa brand (NCP 2683702).
Looking at our manufacturing we can actually make bushings for the weaker shaft although I'm not sure why you would want to run that arm since the stronger 2nd gen arm is backwards compatible.
I will look at the possibility of making bushings for the Duralast arm. I like the fact the shaft is stronger but the housing ID is very similar and I'm not sure how the reduced bushing wall thickness will affect its longevity.
Frank
Napa's lower end idler arm which they spec for a 2nd gen is identical to the 1st gen. It has the smaller weaker shaft. I strongly recommend not buying it.
The Duralast idler arm (Autzone FA 5040) which is quite affordable has a larger shaft than the top of the line Napa brand (NCP 2683702).
Looking at our manufacturing we can actually make bushings for the weaker shaft although I'm not sure why you would want to run that arm since the stronger 2nd gen arm is backwards compatible.
I will look at the possibility of making bushings for the Duralast arm. I like the fact the shaft is stronger but the housing ID is very similar and I'm not sure how the reduced bushing wall thickness will affect its longevity.
Frank
#17
Contributing Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,124
Likes: 0
From: Los Osos, CA (we can't agree on crap!)
I have been running the SDORI bronze bushings for a few months now on my '93 4runner w/ bj spacers, 33x12.5x15 tires, low pro compression bumpstops, and no front swaybar. So far they are holding up very well, much better than the stock OEM bushings.
The OEM bushings would last one day at the dunes before I was able to feel the play in the plastic bushings. These ones have lasted multiple trips to the dunes and are still holding strong. I don't just putt-putt around the dunes and if anything, I've been much harder on the 4runner so I could give these a good test for Frank. This includes multiple jumps, many times with just the front end coming off the ground and slamming down, and then the real killer, hitting holes/deep tire ruts with just one tire. I have low pro compression bumpstops and they get pounded, so I've been working the front end pretty good.
Next step, is installing the downey idler brace and I've got an aussie locker going in the front diff. This should put even more force on the bushings for testing. Hopefully, I'll be able to get that all done this week and get the 4runner back out for testing. Stay tuned for the report.....
Anyways, just wanted to let you know that elripster's stuff is getting some real world testing and I'm impressed so far.
Gratuitous action shot....
The OEM bushings would last one day at the dunes before I was able to feel the play in the plastic bushings. These ones have lasted multiple trips to the dunes and are still holding strong. I don't just putt-putt around the dunes and if anything, I've been much harder on the 4runner so I could give these a good test for Frank. This includes multiple jumps, many times with just the front end coming off the ground and slamming down, and then the real killer, hitting holes/deep tire ruts with just one tire. I have low pro compression bumpstops and they get pounded, so I've been working the front end pretty good.
Next step, is installing the downey idler brace and I've got an aussie locker going in the front diff. This should put even more force on the bushings for testing. Hopefully, I'll be able to get that all done this week and get the 4runner back out for testing. Stay tuned for the report.....
Anyways, just wanted to let you know that elripster's stuff is getting some real world testing and I'm impressed so far.
Gratuitous action shot....
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