1994 4Runner.

What's the best way to remove the stock rear shocks? I am planning on installing KYB Monomax.

Any writeups, advise, pics, etc.

Thanks for any assistance ...

 

remove the old shock:
unbolt the bottom... unbolt the top... remove the shock....
install the new shock:
reverse the removal procedure.

 

Pretty simple. They have a post on the top and an eyelet on the bottom. Both are easily accessible with wrench and socket.

 

This isn't something you do a write-up on. Maybe struts on a Camry, but not shocks.

 

Please note the location of the previous posters. You don't see much road salt in Temecula, Tucson, or San Antonio!

It's a MAJOR PITA. That top bolt is a nightmare to get to when it's rusted solid. I would suggest trying to remove them the right way - but don't spend too much time on it. Grab the sawzall and cut between the lower bushing and the mounting plate. Be sure to get a new nut for the top and coat it liberally with anti-seize.

 

Cut the shaft on top unbolt the bottom easist way to do it

 

Sorry, forgot a great many of you have the luxury of road salt.

 

There is an easier way, if you do not intend on saving your old shocks.

Take an angle grinder and start cutting the shock shaft below the frame mount. You have to remove it in little slices, but eventually you're able to cut it off from the bottom, so you can pull the threaded portion of the shaft and the nut off the top.

I wouldn't even bother trying to undo the nut. I tried for hours, in it was rust-welded in place.

 

my bad. I forgot that Pacific Ocean air and 6000+ ft mountains with snow levels down to 2000' and the salting that goes along with those mountain roads don't count.
...maybe some of us less 'fortunate' people were waiting for someone wanting to remove their shock absorbers to complain about rusted parts...?

 

Studs on top end of the shock are a terrible idea. I just changed the rear shocks on my 95 SR5, had to cut the top nuts off with a cutting wheel. Pain in the butt, not much room to work on the passenger side.
I did notice the stock Toyota shocks were gas charged, similar to the KYBs.

 

Lots of your favorite penetrating lube and let it sit. That is what i had to do to mine. Then get the biggest ratchet in you can up there for leverage and put a box end on the shaft and take her off. After 155000, my front stockers were ok, but the rears were totally blown. Put doetsch techs in the back and bilsteins up front.

 

Careful on the passenger's side. The brake lines run right by the top stud. I'd got at it from the bottom.

 

spray some pb blaster on the nuts/bolts 3 times a day, do that for 3 days, then right before you go to take it off, use wd40... should make it a lot easier to come off.

 

It's not about snow - it's about salt. I bought my truck when I lived in Cleveland. Sure it snows as much or more out here, but the sun comes out after, say, November - in the "rust belt" it doesn't and they lay salt every day for 4 months.

I love to hear people in CO complain about salt and rust ... I'm like "you don't know how good you have it!"

 

So, it sounds like cutting at the top bolt is the way to go.

What about lifting the frame at the rear to allow the wheel to hang? Or, should I leave the wheels on the ground? If I don't lift the 4runner then I will have to compress the shock. Don't know if the shocks come tied in order to keep it compressed for easier installation.

Thanks for your replies ...

 

It doesn't really matter. Lifting it up will give you more room to work comfortably though.