I recently installed some coils in the rear of the truck, in between the frame and leaf springs, and have noticed a little bit of body roll if I take a corner in a hurry. Before I put the coils in the rear leaves were all flat and resting on the overload which was also flat. If one of you out there has the stock leaves on your pickup and they are not flat can you tell me if you have any lean or roll when you make a corner? It's very very little roll and it's not an issue really but I'm starting to wonder if it's going to roll a lot when I get it off road and twist it up a little.

Oh and I still have the 200lb camper top on there if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance.

 

You can roll anywhere if driving unsafe but you can't talk about body roll till you ride in my rig!

nobody likes it, i find it funny taking a turn at 5mph in the parking lot and having my friends hang on the handles!

That is with the rancho 9000's set on soft though. The stiffer the shock the less body roll!

 

I'm sorry newb question, coil between the springs and frame? So you keep the leafs in and add coils? Never heard of that. Got pics?

 

http://www.gearinstalls.com/russell.htm

there you go!

 

Sounds normal. Its just cause you dont have that big fat overload holding all the weight now, you have a little more travel before it goes into use. I have a stock 84 (until tomorrow ) and i have a good amount of roll with the shell on there. If you took the overloads off make sure your leafs dont go negative or theyre likely to snap.

87LVRunner: Its some new thing i never heard of it til about a week ago. You just replace your bumpstops with coils that span from the frame rail to the axle.

 

Now that is slick!! Thanks!

 

lol that write up is funny! good one though

 

That's strange as can be. i have never heard of coils assisting leafs before. the pay load capacity must be impresive.

 

Here is the link to my build. Oh and don't laugh too much about the rig hitting the driveway.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ks-zuk-157035/

 

if the coils were put on to assist fatigued leaf springs, the load capacity is about the same as stock (well, could be more depending on the rate of the coils).
coil springs tend to have a more 'progressive' rate when compared to individual leaf springs. meaning that the more the coil spring is compressed more resistance is applied to the load (not exactly true but for this purpose it is). leaf springs tend to have fairly flat spring rates, which is why there are several leaf springs stacked together so that as the weaker leaf reaches it's capacity there is another leaf under it to take up some more weight, so on and so forth, and is also why using chevy leaf springs on the rear of a 4runner or truck (for instance) works well- the chevy spring is designed to carry a heavier load but gives very easily when weight is added.

 

Now that is a great explanation, thank you. I thought about going with the chevy 63's but didn't want to deal with moving the spring mounts.

 

aw, shucks.

 

Dude don't worry about it, I take hairpin corners with a 3" Bodylift and 33's at 30mph and I ain't got no swaybars.. It rolls, but it Isn't gonna ROLL... Heck I've had it on two wheels before, and that was SCARY.. Popped a corner real fast in the rain and the side completely lifted off and I about pee'd my britches..

 

I don't know, wouldn't it just be better to replace the fatigued leaf springs. Seems like a bit of time and some money for a band-aid solution. Hey, but to each their own, right?

 

coils= ~100 (at most)
leafs= ~200 (at best)

ends up with pretty much stock configuration- ride height, load rating, etc. (maybe a little ex load handling)

 

Yeah but leafs are bolt on. This "coil job" is not. I'd just add rear OME leafs if you just need to fix a saggy rear (without alot of lift) and better load handling. Call me crazy, but I like to fix a problem, not band-aid it even if it means spending a few more bucks. Just my opinion.

 

the coil job is 'slip' on. no fab work or wrench turning required. just a jack and "pop" in goes the spring.
not exactly the same thing in the thread, but the result is the same.

 

Looks ghetto to me. The thread showed grinding and welding and that was what I was talking about. Again, why not spend a few bucks and fix it right? Actually, doesn't really matter. Everyone has their own ways and reasons for doing things. This "fix" is just not my style.

 

I agree to a point, 84RNR. The thread I pulled the pic from wasn't the same thread relating to this particular installation though, so 'grain-of-salt' it.
I wouldn't do this to my 91 pickup. I wouldn't do it to my 88 4runner either.

Either way, it does not mean it is not a cost effective solution to the problem. Maybe there are more 'proper' ways of doing it, but that does not make it any less viable as a solution.

At the same time, I could say that removing the rear bumper on a 4runner looks like a ghetto solution to ground clearance concerns, considering there are ways to raise the truck quite high and get the stock bumper out of the way of most obstacles, no?

 

You refering to my avatar? Rear bumper was removed by the previous owner and believe me my runner has no problems with ground clearance. Looks like you might though, no? I never put down the mod, just put in my .02. So keep being an ass.