This morning was like every other morning, I get ready, say goodbye to my wife and head out to the truck. I unlocked the truck via the key FOB hopped in, put the key in, got two chimes then nothing. Turn the key I get nothing, starter doesn't turn or even click, no dome light, no dash lights, power locks do not work, no power at all anywhere. Thinking there is no way the battery is dead (since I just put a new Die Hard Platinum in 6 months ago), I grab my multi-meter to test it. It tests fine. My connection at the negative post is loose but it still tests fine off the clamp and has been that way since I put the battery in.

What the heck could have happened to the truck? I did nothing out of the ordinary, didn't bump anything, it didn't rain last night, yesterday everything was working up to snuff.

1999 Limited V6 4x4 168,000 miles

 

What did your battery test at? How many volts? Is there any crud on your battery terminals?

 

check the main fuse, you described what happened to my truck, even though mine is 11 years older. electrical is electrical, it sounds like a fuse.

 

Terminals are clean and it tested at almost 13 volts. I did not take a precise measurement since I saw it go over 12 and I was in a hurry to get to work.

 

Yeah that was my thought, too. Unfortunately I was late for work at that point and had to run. I'll check that out when I get home. I just can't think what could have caused the fuse to blow. I didn't do anything different. Just an old fuse getting worn?

 

Was it almost 13 volts, or over 13 volts. Cuz I've had bad batteries before that were only putting out just over 12 volts. But ya....check your fuses as well.

 

I'm seriously counting the battery out right now. I've had my share of battery problems and dead batteries and there's usually power to the lights or locks or something small. Especially when the reading goes over 12. I honestly can't remember if it was at or over 13, but it was well above 12. Like I mentioned before, everything was working just fine. It turned right over everytime, turning over was not sluggish at anypoint.

Fuses are where I'll be investigating.

 

If you have a loose connection I would go there first. I have had this problem before even with a tight connection they will sometimes not conduct completely and may be really sporatic....start one minute and not the next. Don't rule out the battery...Die-hards are notorious for dying hard in less than a year...though it should be unlikely I wouldn't totally rule it out. Did you check the connection at the other end of the battery cables?

Do you still get two dings, does the key fob still work? Or are they also dead now...

 

Everything is dead. No chimes. Even with the loose negative connection (I can spin it on the terminal by hand) I am still able to test the battery from the positive terminal to a point on the negative wire off the terminal.

 

My Jeep did this a couple of times and I was getting 13 volts, but basically no amps. I would put some anti-oxidant on the post, then tighten the connection up or if you must, get a new end terminal. If you had a loose connection and tried to start it, it may have tried to draw all the amps through very little connection (this is like using a wire gauge that is too small for the draw). This will heat things up fast due to resistance and may have blown something like a fuse or fusible link. I don't know of any main fuse though (I might be wrong) and I know it couldn't have blown them all.

The loose connection could be the cause, but not the problem. That is how electrical goes....

Checking the fuses and the connection are probably the places to start. I think bad batteries can still test normal on voltage at times though they have no very low amperage.

Good luck dude...keep us updated!

 

Take the battery out of your other car (if you have another) and stick it in your 4runner, see if it starts......easy check. That will either point to your battery, or rule it out.

 

Alright, I got it fixed! The battery was fine and all the fuses were fine. I have a bunch of accessories connected to the battery and use a special splitter to connect to the + terminal. It allows me to connect to two screws instead of one, with a small plate on the top. Well when I tested the power to the fuse box I was only getting 2.5 volts. I started testing all the other accessory wires and was getting the same result. When I turned the key on they went down to 0.5 volts. So I took them all off the terminal cleaned them up and reinstalled. Viola! 12.8 volts back at the fuse box. There wasn't any visible corrosion so everything "looked" fine. But all the connections seemed to have a weathered look that was suppressing the connection. After sanding them all down, the truck fired right up. I also took out a plastic ring from my negative clamp, which was preventing it from being tightend down all the way.

Thanks for all the help, and remember, even though it might look clean it doesn't mean that it is clean.

 

Cool man...glad you got it fixed

 

Glad to hear you are up and running again...battery connections are a pain! And they are sneaky too!

 

The odd thing was that it just happened suddenly. Just like a fuse blowing. There wasn't any lead up to it like sporatic failures, flickering or the likes. I did notice that when I use my key FOB now it seems to respond quicker. I had to almost be at my door for it to work. I can use it walking to the truck now.