Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Show me to the bar(s)!!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 01:07 PM
  #1  
qdude79's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: CenCal
Show me to the bar(s)!!!

Got a barely used 110 mig welder recently. Was thinking about fabbing my own step bars for my "vertically challenged" passengers, and to be honest, it just sounds like a fun project. Soooooo.....

Show me your bars! I know some of you have designs for sliders, etc too, I'd like to see what you came up with! Tubing or square... how did you anchor it? I'm thinking of putting them to plates that bolt on, rather than just welding to the frame (too permanent and I'm that good with a tiny welder).
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #2  
Alex 400's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 775
Likes: 0
From: Shoreline, Wa
Originally Posted by qdude79
Got a barely used 110 mig welder recently. Was thinking about fabbing my own step bars for my "vertically challenged" passengers, and to be honest, it just sounds like a fun project. Soooooo.....

Show me your bars! I know some of you have designs for sliders, etc too, I'd like to see what you came up with! Tubing or square... how did you anchor it? I'm thinking of putting them to plates that bolt on, rather than just welding to the frame (too permanent and I'm that good with a tiny welder).
I think you would want to weld them to the frame. IMO, the bolts will never be as strong or as rigid as just welding it to the frame. And what is the worst thing that could happen, you cut them off? hahaha
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 01:26 PM
  #3  
qdude79's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: CenCal
Actually, I was thinking strength as a reason NOT to weld them to the frame. It's a 110V welder, so being able to hit a mounting plate from two sides would seem to make more sense than trying to build off of a thick frame. Again, I'm must talking step bars, not sliders.
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 03:01 PM
  #4  
Hypoid's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Boston
Sorry, I don't mean to hijack your thread, I'm hoping to be helpful here.

What welder do you have? I would feel great about putting (entire truck) load bearing members together with a 150A machine. No question if it's just a person step. I don't know if there's a MIG welder so small you can't support your own weight if you use it well. Use .030 wire. It'll be great. Technique is important, so practice until you feel great about it.

A nice thing to do is destructive testing. Make a joint like you're planning to mount to the frame, weld it to a piece of scrap that is comparable to the frame, and then break it. Stick a long lever in the tube and destroy it. Odds are you'll buckle the tube before you break a weld, even with your little household welder. Destructive testing will surprise you as to how terrible a job you can do and still be freak'n sweet.

Back to your regularly scheduled thread....
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 03:46 PM
  #5  
scuba's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,338
Likes: 120
From: Austin, Texas
I cant remember what my HS shop teacher told me, But an ARC welder with 6011 should hold like 10000lbs per square inch
Thats IF the pentration is good and solid

if my number or units are way off my bad, if someone knows the correct number they should let us know
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 04:10 PM
  #6  
SwampThing's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 0
From: South
With a 110 welder you'll get good penetration maybe up to 3/16" thick material. And you'll probably be doing multiple passes to accomplish that. If you want to do 1/4"-3/8" you'll need a 240 welder, there's really no way around it.

I'd go with tubing. It slides over rocks a little easier. And though I prefer welding sliders to the frame, with a 110 welder, I'd bolt it instead.

I'll try to find some pics of the sliders I had on my old green machine.
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 04:20 PM
  #7  
SwampThing's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 0
From: South








Sorry, couldn't find any undershots...
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #8  
Alex 400's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 775
Likes: 0
From: Shoreline, Wa
Originally Posted by SwampThing
With a 110 welder you'll get good penetration maybe up to 3/16" thick material. And you'll probably be doing multiple passes to accomplish that. If you want to do 1/4"-3/8" you'll need a 240 welder, there's really no way around it.

I'd go with tubing. It slides over rocks a little easier. And though I prefer welding sliders to the frame, with a 110 welder, I'd bolt it instead.

I'll try to find some pics of the sliders I had on my old green machine.
how about bolting it to the frame and then laying a bead on a couple sides of the mounting plates? That would make it a little more rigid.
Reply
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 04:34 PM
  #9  
SwampThing's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 0
From: South
You could do that if you wanted. There's nothing wrong with bolting it, many people go that route especially if they want to take em off and don't want to break out the torch and grinder.

But yeah, if you're worried about the strength of bolting it, you could always throw a bead around the mount.

I just prefer welding anything instead of drilling and bolting. Hell, even the toolbox and train horns are welded to my dodge instead of using bolts
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
justdifferentials
Vendors Build-Ups (Build-Up Section)
14
Jun 11, 2017 08:36 PM
choppe777
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
5
May 16, 2016 08:00 AM
HiLuxer
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
2
Sep 9, 2015 02:43 PM
Pocoyota
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
Sep 8, 2015 02:41 PM
mirabile4runner
Misc Stuff (Vehicle Related)
0
Sep 3, 2015 07:15 AM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:56 AM.