Hi,

anyone have this happen before?

I have a small problem that i hope some of the experts here can answer.

98 4runner SR5 - Occassionally when i put my key into the keyhole to start my car, the keyhole refuses to turn to the right. I can still easily remove the key and try again and usually after anywhere from 7 - 25 tries it lets me turn the key to start the car. I've noticed recently that this "key locking up" has been happening more frequently.

I've tried using a different key when it has locked up but this doesn't free it. so my guess is it has somethign to do with the keyhole... any guidance as to how to fix this?

Your help is really appreciated
Thanks!

 

This is a very common problem. Do yourself a favor and get a new lock cylinder before it completely locks up and wont turn at all.

 

The most likely problem would be a poorly cut key, hardware store, wal-mart, ect... And the only way to get a perfectly working key would be to take it to a reputable locksmith. He could try to decode the cuts on the key, then cut a new key by code. Another way would be to get the original factory code off the passenger door lock. You would have to pull the door panel and remove the cylinder. You could then take the cylinder/code to a reputable locksmith in your area and he could cut you an original key by code.

The above steps is what I had to do to my truck. The key I received was so poorly cut that I wasn't able to decode the key to figure out the cuts. I decided that I needed the experience anyways, so I just pulled the door panel/cylinder. (I'm a locksmith )

If you were to remove the panel/cylinder yourself, it wouldn't cost you nearly as much if you were to have a locksmith do it. To just cut a new key by code I would charge $15 + the cost of the key (usually under $5)... Prices will vary depending on where you are...

Now, if you don't have a local reputable locksmith in your area, it is possible that I could hook you up....

If the key itself is 'locking' up in the cylinder, and you are unable to remove it, there is a greater problem. Most likely would be a bent or crushed wafer.

 

Well, this is common on pretty much any vehicle. Sometimes it seems to occur more when parked on a grade and steering wheel turned a bit and not setting the ebrake. Next time it happens wiggle the steering wheel as you go to turn the key. Not sure what the connection is, but it always seems to work in my experiences.

 

This is happening to my friends Rav 4 and her husband tacoma.

I've only been able to look at the Rav 4 so far but it has the ignition where you push in to "unlock" the ignition then turn right, compared to they way it is on my rig where you just put the key in and turn, then you actually have to manually "lock" the ignition with the button when you turn the motor off. (this way just makes more sense to me anyway, avoids this problem altogether)

I was going to see if theres a way to disable this locking feature on her ignition to avoid replacing the whole thing. Is this possible?

 

Sure it's common but your advice is wrong.

Search!
A dealership vin# cut key and a $3~ graphite squirt should be done first...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/i...t-turn-128950/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/i...g-start-77907/

Mine is still working till this day.

 

Mine started getting bad a while ago,I had dealer cut key off of VIN#and lubed the cylinder with lock ease stuff,was fine for a while,6months or so started doing it again,think the tumbler pins were worn too much.Replaced key cylinder all was good....Now I just need to get a locksmith to match the tumblers so I can have one key again.

I think if you catch it early a new key would work for a long time,but I guess I waited too long to have a key cut.

 

^^x2...this is the fix!! Dont bother replacing costly parts till you try the obvious.

 

I was speaking lock cylinder (new) which comes with a new key. In my experience, its not just the key that causes the problem. If your method works, great! That is cetainly cheaper than buying a new lock cylinder with key. However, that doesn't make my advice "wrong". Incomplete perhaps.

 

DC is right... the new key, may work for 6 years, or 6 weeks, eventually the cylinder will need to be replaced. The key may buy you valuable time tho.

 

DONT USE GRAPHITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! graphite is a terrible lube for locks. All it does is gunk things up.

I suggest using Liquid Wrench. It is a much better, cleaner lubricant!

 

I'm pretty sure its just a spring loaded pin of some sort, so I'm betting if that pin was just removed, you could disable it.

 

That's pretty much it. If you've been using a poorly cut key in the ignition/doors, ect. It will cause uneven wear on the wafers/disc tumblers.

Just an FYI for everyone. The vast majority of vehicle locks are disc tumbler/wafer. The difference between a disc tumbler and pin tumbler is this...

Disc Tumbler: Thin flat pieces of brass
Pin Tumbler: Round conical point, also made of brass.

 

I was thinking this same thing. I have heard many bad things about graphite lube. Tends to gunk things up and cause more problems.

 

If your talking about DRY graphite..you know the powder type, then I disagree. It's specifically used for locks and things like gun parts. It does not gunk up and lasts a very long time.

 

Where can it be found and what does it look like? Are there particles in it like the old school nasty graphite?

There is only one other lubricant that I use for locks besides Liquid Wrench, and that's only for a specific brand lock. Its a dry powder lubricant for a high security brand of locks. (Mul-T-Lock)

 

Found on the self at local dealer, looks like super fine dust, no particles and comes in a variety of brands. I can't believe your saying it's bad. Gun owners have been using it for eons.

It's cured my "locking ignition" for about year now...maybe longer. hmmm

I prefer to use liquid wrench on door hinges.

 

just go to a sporting goods shop, or cabelas...they should have the good stuff.

 

IT NEEDS TO BE LUBERCATED (....& that's what she said)
Same thing happend to me after my car sat for awile.... the cylinders get a slight ammount of rust on them and they lock up....WD40 is "the ONLY way to roll" with instant success.... Remember LESS is More don't FRY OUT your ignition with WD40 now....
icerunner over and out

 

wd-40 will attract dirt and dust which you dont want. i just had same problem had dealership cut me a key from vin# and it wouldnt turn it either so i got som graphite dust and worked it in switching from key to key and now the new key starts it every time. however i did price a lock cylinder at www.shoptrd.com for $80.00 local dealership wanted $115 but i fixed mine for undr $15