ok, first of all all of these o2 sensors are way cheap IMHO. I want the highest quality because an O2 sensor is an important part of your vehicle. What brand do you have experience with? Do you believe in getting all OEM parts?

First off part # is 89465-39485

Denso: $91
http://sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?...72529&pid=1962

NGK: $84.85
http://sparkplugs.com/results_cross....CrossWarning=1

OEM: 145.25 (from the stealership)

Also, I have no codes, I get 18.8 MPG and I would say no real reason to change my O2 sensor except to do it before I NEED to. Should I just wait and do something else like change the plugs / cap / rotor?

Also, I like to do the research ahead of time because i am such a nerd and read yotatech all day at work if you haven't noticed.

 

If there are no problems it doesn't make sense to throw parts at it. As far as the o2 sensor, either of those brands are good. It is known that sparkplugs.com gets you the same thing the dealer sells for much cheaper.

Rob

 

If you're getting good gas mileage and don't have a check engine light don't replace it. When the O2 sensor goes out it will mess with your air fuel ratio, but they're a cheap easy fix and readily available.

On sensors and electrical I have tried some of the aftermarket parts and have been disappointed. So on critical parts I have stuck with OEM for the last several years.

BTW PN 89465-39485 $94.18 plus shipping

Gerone

 

NGK (NTK) or Denso. Denso was used from the factory. As long as its a direct replacment, with the proper plug in either one of those will do great.

I bought the NGK (NTK) for my truck from sparkplugs.com

 

I'd go with OEM from trdparts4u or one of the other online dealers.

 

Thanks for the replys, I'm going to wait like you suggest. I think since I have got my truck I'm just too excited about working on it. I guess I should post in the "you know you drive a Toyota" thread with "when you study how to fix your truck all day on yotatech but never get to do anything because your truck won't break"...or something haha. I guess I need another hobby until things need replacing- I'm gonna go buy a PSP tonight and learn how to hack it!

 

Is there that big of a difference between O2's for the 4 and 6 cylinders???? I got an NGK off of Summit for just under $40!!

 

Hard to say without a VIN, some the trucks require an air fuel ratio sensor for the front and they're quite a bit more than a regular O2 sensor. Don't know why, they pretty much look like a regular 02 sensor.

Gerone
866-233-4305

 

Just to jump in here, I don't have a code throwing up, but my idling is like crap. Starts fine, drives fine, but stop for a light, and I need to keep playing with the throttle to keep it running. I bought the truck in Feb. and it had no exhaust past a stopped up converter, drove for two weeks before I added the exhaust, but never replaced the sensor. Could the sensor be causing the bad idle?

 

just a little insight. nipponDenso is OE. that is the supplier to Toyota. So just go with the Denso unit.

 

Sweet

 

Denso only for me. I know you didn't list it, but just in case you were thinkin' of it, don't get a Bosch. I've seen other people on this board say they haven't had any problems with them, but the Bosch O2 sensor I put in my CA emission 22re truck wreaked havoc on the way the truck ran.

See this thread for a better description:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ration-139265/

Slapped in the Denso, and the problems went away. Haven't tried the NGK (NTK) , but I don't know if I want to after the headache I had from the first time I strayed from the OEM.

 

i use the denso univ. ones and just wire it in

 

I guess I will throw my two cents in.

It is true Denso does manufacture many parts for Toyota's. They also manufacture for many other companies. The fact that a part is manufactured by the same company does not mean it is built to the same specifications. The Denso O2 sensor may in fact be the same but I would only use the Toyota one. I can go to my warehouse and pull out 3 or 4 O2 sensors that are all made by Denso and have what appears to be the same plug yet they all have different part numbers. It seems to me that if Toyota can have several different part numbers that all appear from the outside to be the same yet have different part numbers there could be a difference in them. I have seen many customers come into service with check engine lights on, poor idle conditions etc. and the only thing we do is change out the aftermarket spark plugs and put the Denso plugs in and the problem is fixed. Toyota's seem to be picky about what we use to repair them. What works on one Toyota doesn't work as well on another. For the price difference between OEM and aftermarket I wouldn't waste my time or money trying something else hoping it will work when I know the OEM will. Of course before we became a Vendor here on Yota Tech and many other boards and other "stealerships" became vendors too, the choice to use OEM or aftermarket was all about price. I think we can say we have helped level the playing field and offer quality OEM parts at prices that are very competitive. You have a choice of what you put in your vehicle and yes.... you may get lucky once in a while and find something that works on your Toyota that is not OEM, but I don't like taking chances on certain items. If I was totally opposed to aftermarket parts I wouldn't be selling all the other Brands I do. Bottom line is this.....you have a choice and it is up to you to make the final decision, so continue to do your research and good luck with it. We will always be here to get you the OEM parts your vehicle needs at better than employee prices. It's your money, use it wisely.

 

^exactly right. thats why I only use Denso parts on my Yota. I don't buy them from the dealer but rather in the aftermarket. I manage an auto parts store that has access to Denso parts and sometimes even OE Yota parts through one of our suppliers.

-same thing goes for my VW, i use nothing buy VW or Bosch parts on it. i find that vehicles are at their best when operating on either OE or after market parts made by the OE supplier.

 

As a general rule cats fail because of too much unburned gas going into them. If you have a good mechanic with proper diagnostic equipment they should be able to find the problem pretty quick. Otherwise you're just throwing parts at it.

If you don't have a good mechanic, I'd start by checking the TPS, IAC if it only has the problem with the AC on, fuel filter/fuel delivery and everything you can in the ignition system. We had an old Jeep that we were working on with the same problem, idled real rough, but ran well otherwise. Plugs and new wires fixed it.

Hope this helps.

Gerone

 

I have one of those Air/Fuel Sensor and not an O2 sensor and yes they are quite a bit more than your average O2 sensor. I could be wrong but I think it has to do with California Emissions because my buddy's 4Runner up in Oregon has an O2. If anyone else could shed some light on this issue, it would be much appreciated.

 

I had two on my Cali spec 4Runner. One before and aft of the cat. I believe it was A/F before and O2 aft.

Fink

 

Fink,

You are correct because when I finally got a part number, I called around and the front is way more expensive than the rear. Fortunately, the rear one should last way longer than the front, correct? It would suck to replace those two at a time, it can easily run you at least around $200. When you had it, did you ever change it because mine runs perfect but I hear those A/F sensors can go bad without the check engine light coming on. I am sitting at 135K.

 

My situation was weird.

I was living outside of Cali with a Cali-spec rig that had just thrown a CEL.
I don't remember the code but it was a bad cat.

Originally I was going to cut off both cats, replace it with one Car Sound Highflow Cat and be done with it. Well...not so easy. The ECU would have freaked.

I ended up having to cut out both cats, replace my A/F sensor ($$$) and then rig up a Rear O2 Sensor Sim from URD.

Once I got it wired up and put back together, she was good to go and was good to until I sold her at about 130k. I put about 20k on her with the Sim installed and it was great.

The A/F sensors (before the cat) can go bad with no signs or symptoms at all, it would take OBDII diagnostics to be able to tell, voltage would play no role in it. If your O2 sensor goes out, you will notice it right away and most likely will throw a CEL.

Fink