Anyone tried the 3.0 studs from D.O.A.?
#1
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From: North Florida, practically Georgia.
Anyone tried the 3.0 studs from D.O.A.?
Hey guys - I may have to address a head gasket issue in the near future, and was wondering if anyone's tried the stud set from D.O.A.:
http://www.doaracingengines.com/index.html
(scroll down a bit)
They seem like a good idea - just wanted to poll you all before I got a set.
I've got a phantom oil leak that may be my PS head gasket, not sure, but if it is, I want to do it right.
Thanks!
http://www.doaracingengines.com/index.html
(scroll down a bit)
They seem like a good idea - just wanted to poll you all before I got a set.
I've got a phantom oil leak that may be my PS head gasket, not sure, but if it is, I want to do it right.
Thanks!
#4
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 48
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From: North Florida, practically Georgia.
well, there's a LOT of general trashing of the 3.0, but I didn't see anything throwing D.O.A. under the bus...
I'd love to grab a 3.4, but this engine isn't beyond repair - and I'm working on a shoestring budget...so maybe some day...
They just seem like a good idea, that and a pair of the Downey headers.
Also - just to be clear, I'm coming at this from a "pro - 3.0" perspective, only because I haven't figured out how to swap in a 22-re...
I'd love to grab a 3.4, but this engine isn't beyond repair - and I'm working on a shoestring budget...so maybe some day...
They just seem like a good idea, that and a pair of the Downey headers.
Also - just to be clear, I'm coming at this from a "pro - 3.0" perspective, only because I haven't figured out how to swap in a 22-re...
#5
Here's a thread on DOA.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oa-22r-100034/
I would suggest though, before considering swapping to a 22RE, you search on the 3.4 swap. It's much easier in a V6 truck to stick with a V6 and you will of course have 2X the power and torque (roughly). You can then save all the time and money you might be inclined to spend to up the power of the 4cylinder which will not get it to the power/torque specs of the 3.0 let alone the 3.4.
Frank
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oa-22r-100034/
I would suggest though, before considering swapping to a 22RE, you search on the 3.4 swap. It's much easier in a V6 truck to stick with a V6 and you will of course have 2X the power and torque (roughly). You can then save all the time and money you might be inclined to spend to up the power of the 4cylinder which will not get it to the power/torque specs of the 3.0 let alone the 3.4.
Frank
#6
ARP makes the best head bolts and studs. Others just try and emulate them but there is a lot more to just turning raw stock on a lathe and calling it a head bolt. Here's their contact information. I have used their studs in the past and the 3.0 I sold to a friend now has over 75K miles with no problems. By the way, that motor has 1 MM thick solid brass gaskets cut on a water jet machine. Yes, 3 different dissimilar metals with no fire ring but it was an experiment that has held up well. Got disgusted with those "paper" OEM gaskets.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Contact/Contact.html
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Contact/Contact.html
#7
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: North Florida, practically Georgia.
Here's a thread on DOA.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oa-22r-100034/
I would suggest though, before considering swapping to a 22RE, you search on the 3.4 swap. It's much easier in a V6 truck to stick with a V6 and you will of course have 2X the power and torque (roughly). You can then save all the time and money you might be inclined to spend to up the power of the 4cylinder which will not get it to the power/torque specs of the 3.0 let alone the 3.4.
Frank
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oa-22r-100034/
I would suggest though, before considering swapping to a 22RE, you search on the 3.4 swap. It's much easier in a V6 truck to stick with a V6 and you will of course have 2X the power and torque (roughly). You can then save all the time and money you might be inclined to spend to up the power of the 4cylinder which will not get it to the power/torque specs of the 3.0 let alone the 3.4.
Frank
Woah! Yeah, I didn't see that thread. Geez, alright, forget them - that's just a bad vibe for a company to have.
And thanks for the advice on the engine idea. I like to power of the 6, but the reliability of the 4 is a big draw for me.
Solid pointers though, much appreciated!
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#8
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 48
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From: North Florida, practically Georgia.
ARP makes the best head bolts and studs. Others just try and emulate them but there is a lot more to just turning raw stock on a lathe and calling it a head bolt. Here's their contact information. I have used their studs in the past and the 3.0 I sold to a friend now has over 75K miles with no problems. By the way, that motor has 1 MM thick solid brass gaskets cut on a water jet machine. Yes, 3 different dissimilar metals with no fire ring but it was an experiment that has held up well. Got disgusted with those "paper" OEM gaskets.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Contact/Contact.html
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Contact/Contact.html
Cool, I requested a catalog - I'll take a look.
so, those gaskets were pretty much one-offs? I like your thinking, but how would someone else go about setting something like that up?
On that subject, I've heard good things about engbldr (spelling?) and Fel-Pro gaskets, if I can't get a set of custom 1mm thick copper gaskets
, what would be a good choice? Or better yet - a reliable choice?
#9
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: North Florida, practically Georgia.
one thing on the head-studs, can those be installed while the engine is in the truck - or do I need to pull it? Just wandering about having to slide the heads down on them...
Thanks again guys - I've never done a set of HG's before, but I feel immensely better prepared from all the info on here!
Thanks again guys - I've never done a set of HG's before, but I feel immensely better prepared from all the info on here!
#10
And I'm not just trashing the acronym.... These guys have nothing reputable on Yotatech or TTORA for that matter.
My 2 cents.
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