I recently purchased a 1986 Pickup with a 22R Motor. I converted the carburetor to a Webber DGV5 and in my attempts to set the idle I discovered a problem. The Ignition timing was set 1 ½ - 2 inches in front of the timing scales. Estimate 30 degrees or better BTDC. I set the Crank at zero, with my cam sprocket dot up, pulled my distributor and pointed my rotor to #1, but that did not fix it. I thought my chain had stretched, so I replaced the chain. Two dots aligning with the marked links on the new chain and pointed the distributor to #1, the truck started fine, but the timing was off. Not sure how, so I pulled my dist again. Deep into my bag of tricks I removed the spring from the distributor mechanical advance (thinking worn springs might be advancing the timing at idle) and wired the advance to fix it from moving. I forced the timing to zero and the truck ran very poor (no torque) and eventually overheated. All signs the timing is ATDC. The Truck runs OK with the timing jacked, but I am not getting the idle or fuel economy I'm looking for. Not to mention letting the motor get the best of me. Of note the harmonic balancer was at TDC with the timing sprocket on the crank at 6 o’clock so I don't think the harmonic balancer has slipped. (I have heard of the rubber deteriorating and the inner and outer rings corkscrewing). Need help on more places to look.

 

timing mark on the harmonic balancer is supposed to be at twelve oclock, not 6. im not sure if it matters. just please tell me you're using a timing light. and please tell me if i misunderstood your question.

 

is that the original motor in there? years ago when I built my crazy 22RE I ran into a problem where either the distributor or the drive gear was different from the donor truck (84 22R) and it physically would not let me set timing - the distributor was maxxed in the adjustment slot before getting to spec.

 

To Ozziesironmanoffroad: the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is not quite at 12, more like 11:30; it is the dot on the timing gear on the crack that is at 6 o:clock. The two matched so my harmonic balancer is assumed good.

To Corax: The there is a receipt in the glove box stating the truck was rebuilt in 93'; No other information in the box, but I will check the casting number on the block and see if it yields a clue. Did you just time it by ear or did you match the distributor to the 22RE? Is there a why to tell the distributors apart? The Mechanical link from the vacuum advance is what pegs the rotation on the distributor module, so if the length is different it would alter the firing.

Thanks for the reply

 

First off, plug the lines for the vaccum advance on the distributer and use a timing light.

I have seen some funky timing issues in my day. One issue in particular is when people replace the engine or cyl head and forget to put the thrust washer inbetween the cam and the distributer drive gear. It basicly looks like a washer about as thick as a quarter with a hole drilled in the top of it. When the washer is not installed, the spacing for the distributer drive gear is incorrect and the timing will never be correct. If you have the valve cover off, pull the gear off of the front of the cam (not the timing chain gear) and see if the washer is in there.

 

Well I checked the Block and it is an 22R and the Distributor also has an 22R label so those parts are matched. There is NO washer on the timing gear. As I remember the timing chain, fuel pump cam, and distributor gear go on back to back to back, no washer between them. The Distributor gear has a pin that goes thru the fuel pump cam and keys into the dist keyway. Is that where the washer hole lines up? That sounds promising. Thanks Yota82

Update: I can not confirm a thrust washer with a mechanical fuel pump. My Haynes has two pictures, the one showing the mechanical fuel pump does not show it, the picture without (but with the fuel pump gasket) does. An electric fuel pump would not have the gasket. Does anyone have access to a Toyota factory manual?

 

I just found this in a google search: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...issues-143889/

Seems like only the 22RE has the washer and the 22R does not. I am not really sure at this point. Hopefully the block and head from your engine are from the same year as there was a deck height difference in the block and heads from pre 84 and 85-95.

 

The key way and the timming mark on the harmonic balancer shoud be lined up with each other, if there not then your balancer has twisted out of position and needs to be replaced. This happened on my cousins 86 4Runner and he had to replace his harmonic balancer.

 

The keyway and the timing mark do not line up on the balancer, but the dot on the block timing sprocket is at 6 O:clock when the timing mark is at TDC on the scale. I can pull the balancer and make a closer inspection. For now I have the truck running with the timing jacked 30 degrees TDC. With a warm engine and the choke wide open it runs strong, but I have to choke (half way) it to get it to idle.

 

Your balancer has twisted, if the key way and timming mark don`t line up then its bad and needs to be replaced, there is no getting around it, once replaced you will be able to get your timming right.

 

I'd suggest to double check the marks.

bring the crank up close to TDC remove #1 spark plug and stick a long screwdriver in the hole slowly turn the crank by hand while you feel for TDC. This is not exact, but it'll tell you if the marks are way off.

 

I have the same problem the only way my truck will run some what descent is with distributor turned all the way counter clockwise, so that my timing is way advanced. If i set it to spec that thing idles like . I'm running a 32/36 Weber, and just 2 days ago put a timing chain kit in. Is there any way the cam could be bad? Wouldn't that make it idle like . I've had this problem since I've had the truck. I've considered buying a mild cam just to see if it would run better.

 

I just installed I new 22re in my 81 Toyota 4x4 22r using my old parts. The guy I purchased it from said it would all work but the water pump. Some brackets had to be modified but no major problem. Except now ignition timing. Distributor is either at one end or the other. If installed correctly 0 degrees on crank 1 firing pointing to 12 O’ clock and installing. It’s restarted maximum and still advanced way passed 12 degrees unplugged it’s above 12 and runs ok but definitely not as well. If I remove distributor end retard it back and set it to 8 it runs like crap. I am stumped I don’t know if valve timing is off my a bit to cause this problem. I should call this company.
if anyone out there knows please chime in


Giving to my grandson. Bought it new

 

If I posted in the wrong place sorry. This is my first post.