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Fiberglass or used body panels

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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:33 PM
  #1  
Matt16's Avatar
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Fiberglass or used body panels

So I tipped my truck today doing about 10mph. Lets just say I was avoiding a dog and the rear caught a pothole. The passenger's side got dented up with little pebbles and stuff. I don't want to deal with insurance as I only have basis coverage and I don't want my rates to go up. You can't blame the accident on the dog, I was the one steering.

My question is, after researching a bit, what are the benefits vs cost of fiberglass vs stuff from the wreckers? I like that fiberglass doesn't rust and doesn't dent/ crack easy. How does it compare cost-wise with used panels? I live near a place that makes Toyota fiberglass panels so shipping shouldn't weigh into this.

Matt
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:45 PM
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From: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
hey matt think of this what would you wanna hold more on your back and metal fender or a fiber fender???? then think ok all the gas you save by making it lighter ps sorry to hear that man i would have just hit the brakes and hoped for the best but thats me knowing that the pot holes there
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:48 PM
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From: Salem, OR
Sorry to hear that. I say go the cheap route. Which ever is cheaper...fiberglass might be easier though. Was this in you runner?

I would have just hit the brakes too! Sounds like that dog owes you a new truck
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:09 PM
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From: GRASS valley, CA
i like fiberglass but for less $$ go with used junkyard stuff
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:14 PM
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may sound mean, but I think I would have hit a dog that day...

assuming your talking about the front fender, I'd deal with the looks and save up for those cool looking pre-runner style fiber ones like norcal has there!

but that's just my opinion cuz I think their cool looking, lol. true the fiber ones won't rust and may be a little lighter, but I've heard of paint having a hard time sticking on panels over time; of coarse that may just be the type of paint used... or even the painter, lol

or just do like most everyone else, bondo and a lil paint, lol

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Apr 29, 2008 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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Bummer dude, sorry to hear about the damage. I've been picking up parts for my 1gen, at about $20 - $30 a piece, buts its taken some hunting to get good ones. Are the pieces so wrecked that you can't roll with them until you can get fibreglass parts? If I was less frugal & more style like I'd be going for the fibreglass.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:39 PM
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From: GRASS valley, CA
Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
may sound mean, but I think I would have hit a dog that day...

assuming your talking about the front fender, I'd deal with the looks and save up for those cool looking pre-runner style fiber ones like norcal has there!

but that's just my opinion cuz I think their cool looking, lol. true the fiber ones won't rust and may be a little lighter, but I've heard of paint having a hard time sticking on panels over time; of coarse that may just be the type of paint used... or even the painter, lol

or just do like most everyone else, bondo and a lil paint, lol
yea i just rattle can'd mine, i figured i would just scratch it up anyways
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:38 PM
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I was talking with a friend I hadn't seen in a long time, and glanced over his way and then looked and there was a dog there, didn't think twice, just swerved, I don't have a rear swaybar and I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have tipped with it. It just ever so slowly went over. Shame really, this 4Runner had a really good body. The rear door might be salvageable and once hammered out, might even pass for not dented, but the front door doesn't look too nice. The front fender isn't in great shape either, but might be salvageable. The rear quarter panel ( the big panel that connects to the roof) is dented a bit, but I think it can be pounded out from the inside of the wheel well. The edge of the roof along the doors has a couple dents the size of marbles, I don't have any idea how one might go about repairs those.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:44 PM
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From: Lake City, Fl
duct tape and a sharpie



lol, just kidding



Those in the roof might be difficult to pull out. You may not be able to get to them from the other side. Just might have to drill those and use the the tool to pull them out, then sand and fill the little drilled hole and re-paint.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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I must say though, these Toyotas are tough trucks. Despite the tip-over, the doors all open and close perfectly, the engine caught instantly (turned it off right away after the roll, and then bumped it through a revolution or two to make sure there was no oil in the cylinders, then checked the intake, PVC etc. for oil- none). One tiny bit of smoke after the start, but all said, these are tough trucks- the alignment is still dead on.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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Well that's good; nothing mechanically was damaged. Could have definitely been a lot worse.

I'd put half the thanks towards luck, the other half on the well design of Toyota's engineers.

Not saying their meant to be tipped over, but they can usually take it and shrug it off like it never happen... just may have a few battle scars afterwards...
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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I found a wrecker that will sell me used door shells for $100 ea. (x2) and the fender for $50. Is that a decent price? I will post pictures later on.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt16
I found a wrecker that will sell me used door shells for $100 ea. (x2) and the fender for $50. Is that a decent price? I will post pictures later on.
lets see some pics of the wreck ?
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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prices arent bad, you could do the body work yourself and still have all original parts. who knows, maybe the start of a new career!

lee
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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let's see some pictures of this poor thing! THe toyota body panels seem really soft to me, so you might able to tap the dents out pretty easily.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt16
I must say though, these Toyotas are tough trucks. Despite the tip-over, the doors all open and close perfectly, the engine caught instantly (turned it off right away after the roll, and then bumped it through a revolution or two to make sure there was no oil in the cylinders, then checked the intake, PVC etc. for oil- none). One tiny bit of smoke after the start, but all said, these are tough trucks- the alignment is still dead on.
Yeah after rolling over once my 87 pickup sat on it's passenger side for about 15 minutes and when we got it flipped back over it cranked right back up first click. Blue smoke for about 3 seconds and after that it was fine. Can't beat a toyota when it comes to flipping over. Try that with any other truck and see what happens!
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hmmwv15
Try that with any other truck and see what happens!
A friend of mine rolled his 2WD sonoma doing donuts in the back field. landed on it's roof. They got a tractor fliped it over dragged it back up to the house topped up the fluids and she turned right over
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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Anyone I have heard of that has flipped their trucks never cranked theirs except this guy with a newer model yota and it was the same story. Definitely a first for me to hear that something other that a toyota flipped over and started again.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Oh damn, no way!

Matt, do you have any pictures of the accident? Or the damage possibly?

Check out bc4x4, there are a few 4runners being parted out, you could probibly get doors cheaper. 100 dollars each sounds a bit high IMO...for door shells only.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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It is unfortunate, but life goes on. Thanks for the suggestion Jay, I'll check it out. If it were the DS door, I'd make a half door. I guess anyone wanting to make a half door can have this door for a case of beer, though I might do some bodywork practice on it first.

I'm kicking myself for not getting a picture of the underside. The light was perfect and it would have been a great reference for newbies (ie: this is the t-case, tranny oil pan etc.) I can get a picture of the damage though.

I suppose this might serve as a cautionary tale for those running w/o a rear (or front) swaybar. They're not needed for 99.9% of the time, but that 0.1% of the time, they are. I will be making BEEFY quick discos for the front, but the rear stays on.

Last edited by Matt16; Apr 30, 2008 at 09:54 PM.
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