So, I have tracked down a rolled 97 4Runner with 141k mi. on the clock. I know some Yota heads that have put high mileage engines right in, without messing with a rebuild. So, does anyone think that this mileage warrants a rebuild before putting it in? I'm on the fence.

 

compression check it, and if all good slap her in, do you know the last time the timing belt and water pump have been changed? If havent for a while i would do those.

 

I would rather have a 3.4 with 140k, then a 3.0 with 80 k.

 

Yea I have an 02 4Runner with 170k, and ran into a guy with 239k a week ago in the tire store. I do the 50k maintenance interval which are sometimes spendy but well worth it.

Aaron

 

No doubt.

 

we have one customer with almost 400K on his 3.4. He has only had the top end done on his once. The bottom ends on these things are really strong

 

BOTH of my trucks (91' 2wd 3.4l with a S/C and a 92' x cab SAS'ed with a 3.4l)

Have VERY high milage 3.4ls in them due to the fact that its hard to sell a 3.4l changeover with more that 120k on it.

The Supercharged truck has 217 and counting (driven daily)

The 92 x cab had 289k on it when I installed it.
They both run AWESOME with no issues. I do leakdown tests on them every year and they are still under 2% on a 6 cylinders


Here is THE MOST IMPORTANT THING ABOUT USED ENGINES...

If it had had regular oil changes...

Many of you who have purchased engines from a Japan importer have seen "Black death" when you removed valve covers

or this when you remove the pan


I have seen engines with 60k on them that look like this. I would stay WAYY away from those unless you get them cheap and can tear them down and replace all of the main and rod bearings and the oil pump as well as cleaning everything.

 

Well, here's a pic of my donor. It'll be in my driveway this Saturday.

Isn't she lovely:

 

woo shes pretty just gotta find the sawzall and open her up and have some "fun"

 

Looks good, if it was rolled just make sure you pull all the plugs and turn it over to clear out the oil in the cylinders.

 

Now, do I turn it over before, or after I drain the oil?

 

Only turn it over IF there is oil in the pan, check the dip stick to make sure all of the oil did not drain out when it was sitting on its lid.

When the engine sits up side down the oil leaks past the rings and the drain back ports and finds its way into the intake and can hydro lock the engine (oil can't compress like air) and you can bend a rod.

When you do get it running it will be smoking like a train untill it burns the oil out of everything,

make sure you pull the cat off of it before you run it or else all of that burning oil will clog it up.

 

If I may rephrase your words, just to verify what you're saying. Check the oil level on the dipstick. If it's low, drain the oil. Then pull the plugs and flip it over to drain any leftovers.

Now, if I decide to pull the heads and put a new gasket set in, then the process above is not necessary correct? Cause, I'd pretty much see the oil in the cylinders and can just clean it out.

 

If your engine has been upside down there is a good chance there will be oil in the cylinders, this will not allow your engine to turn (hydro locked)

The oil in the cylinders had to come from the pan, so make sure the dipstick is showing full before you pull the spark plugs out and shoot oil all over when you hit the key.

 

Oh and a 3.4l with 140k is nothing mile wise, just pull the pan (which you have to anyways, check the pick up for sludge, if it is clean put on the t100 pan and drop it in.

 

Sorry dude. You kept saying turn it over, I thought you physically meant turn the engine over, like on an engine stand lol....

You actually meant turn the key and allow the starter to spin the crank... DOH!

And yes, I'll do what you say and pull the plugs before trying to start it. I did want to try to start it when it got here and before pulling it.

Thanks.