Hey everyone I just wanted to get some opinions on this welder. I was thinking about buying http://cgi.ebay.com/CLARKE-220V-180-...QQcmdZViewItem. I wanted some opinions on this welder, would it be worth getting 220 wired for this welder. I want to do fab work on my truck with it.

 

My experience is that a cheap welder is a cheap welder; however, I do not know about the Clarke brand. Search google for some reviews. Let us know how it works for you.

By the way, my buddy bought a 110v Lincoln for about that price and it is the best 110 that I have ever used.

 

That looks a little on the expensive side to me. If it came set up for MIG then it would probably be worth a shot. I bet it would cost another $150 or so to set it up for MIG welding. Check out this Lincoln that's ready to go except for the bottle and its less than $200 more. Personally I would not get a 120 volt welder if you plan on doing fab for your truck. It is so nice to have the penetration of the 220.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100395926

 

So I read reviews on Clarke and aparently its not a bad unit for the price. I think I might give it a shot since its a new with a warranty. I manage a pawn shop and we have an older millermatic 150 that looks like its been well abused/used . Its so dirty you can't even see blue on it anymore! It would probably cost me about the same price as the new Clarke.

 

It is 220 and set up for MIG, are you sure you're looking at the same clarke welder?

 

Sorry I didn't see that it came with the regulator and gauges. I never said it wasn't 220. You asked if it was worth getting 220 wired for this welder. When I said that I would not get a 120 welder I was saying that 220 is worth it no matter what brand you choose. Also you may just want to contact them and ask If there is anything else that you need to use it as a MIG welder. You need more that just the regulator and gauges for MIG. You will need a solenoid, bottle, wire and will likely have to change out the liner that the wire runs through. (It may come with it but it looks to me that its really just the flux core set up and they are including the gauges) I'm just trying to help you out so that you get what you are expecting.

 

Oh heh, sorry I missunderstood you. Thanks for the help! I might get the Millermatic from work because I know its set up for MIG.

 

OK so I'm bumping my thread to get some more input on the Millermatic 150. I have decided to either get a Handler 187, Handler 210 or the Used Millermatic 150. The millermatic is set up with a regulator and cylinder for GMAW. The only problem is the outer casing is so grungy its not even blue anymore, wich would indicate this welder has been well used. Would you guys think if the price is right I should go with the old Miller or just save my pennies for a new Hobart.

 

Non gas welders are ok for horse corals and such, but they don't work well for thinner metal or welds that require good pentration and strength, like on a frame or suspension. Go MIG with gas, for a few hundred dollars more you can get a Lincoln or Miller. In my opinion, always buy the next model up from what you think you will ever need, not the one that will just get you by.

Most welders that say they can be converted usually don't work as well with gas as the ones that are built for it in the first place. My buddy bought a Craftsman and added the gas and it doesn't work as well as my Lincoln. Plus duty cycle (duration of welding between breaks) is the most important part of how well a welder is built. Cheaper welders just don't have the quality windings in the transformer.

 

Thats why I am leaning towards the Millermatic 150. It has a bit lower amperage rating than the Clarke or the Hobarts but its comes set up for gas and has a better duty cycle rating out of all of them.

 

You may want to check out the thermal arc line. I recently bought a fabricator 251 to replace my trusty Millermatic 175. Looking at the thermal arc line I wish I had seen the fabricator 190 back when I bought my miller. Be sure to look at the duty cycle on the welders you are considering and also the drive roll system. The only complaints I had on my little miller where
1)the overall lack of power (it was only a 175)
2) duty cycle at max output (over heated it a few times)
3) the drive roll system was not nearly as nice as the 210+ full size machines.
4) that damn short mig gun lead but looking at the drive roll system it could not be able to push wire through a 10ft lead any how.

The Fabricator 190 is cool because its affordable and it has many of the features of the full size machines like built in bottle cart, full size case/stand, standardized tweco parts,dual drive rollers, Long mig gun lead 10ft(more important than you may think), etc.

The handler 210 is a nice machine as well and pretty powerful for its size. I suspect that hobart uses the same single drive roll with the smaller short lead mig gun to keep costs down. Check E-bay for the thermal arc stuff or even buy it locally for not much more as I did.


edit... if you can swing the $1100-1200 the thermal arc 210 is rated at 250 amps and I would venture its probably the best value in a welder that can be had these days. I only stepped up to the 251 because it came with a free spool gun and the price was good for a 300 amp machine ($1600 locally).

I did read on some welding forums that some guys where finding the TA 210 for under $1k which is darn cheap for a 250 amp machine.

 

Ya I just did some research on the Thermal Arc 190 and 210. Pretty good performance specs! I like the 250A max. I don't know if I can go over 1k$. I am also trying to find what the current draw requirements are so I can figure out if my welder breaker/plug/wiring is capable.

 

Thermal arc pdf. link
should load up this pdf.

Welding DC
Maximum output 250 Amp
Maximum duty cycle @ 104*F 30% @ 250 Amp at 26.2V
Output @ 40% duty cycle @ 104*F 210 Amp at 25.3V
Output @ 60% duty cycle @ 104*F 176 Amp at 23.6V
Output @ 100% duty cycle @ 104*F 137 Amp at 21.0V
Current range 20-250 Amp
Number of voltage settings 16
Welding voltage range 15.2-26.2 Volt
Maximum plate thickness 1/2" (12.7mm)
Wire diameter range Mild steel: .023 - .045 (0.6 - 1.2mm)
Stainless steel: .023 - .045 (0.6 - 1.2mm)
Aluminum: .030 - .045 (0.8 - 1.2mm)
Flux cored: .030 - .045 (0.8 - 1.2mm)
Fitted feed roll suits MIG wire .035 - .045 (0.9 - 1.2mm)
Dimensions (HxWxD) 32?x21?x36.8 (813x533x935mm)
Weight 200 lb (91kg)


Primary Power
Primary voltage 208/230 Volt
Supply plug NEMA 6-50P
Lead cord length 10ft (3m)
Maximum input current @ 250 Amp 54/49 Amp
Rated kVA @ 250 Amps 11.2 kVA
Approvals CSA (pending)
IEC 60974-1 (CE)


The 251 that I have took a few days to trip the 60amp 220v breaker I had. I checked the wiring gauge and distance of the run before I upgraded to an 80amp breaker. Keep in mind those duty cycle ratings are for 104*F and I can tell you that when its 104*F I'm sure as hell not in the shop welding. So you can assume those numbers will improve with lower operating temps. The 210 should spray weld with .035 which is very cool if you have never done it.


edit...here is what the 251 looks like if your curios. The 210 is the same body but with a single bottle tail section not a dual. I really like the industrial feel and the power/ground cables being on quick release knobs at the base of the machine. There is spot/stitch settings on the inside where you store the wire as well. The only thing I had to get used to with this beast is learning NOT to set things on the hot side like you would do with a smaller welder when working beyond its limits. If you crank this thing up beyond what your work thickness is you had better be ready pull the trigger and GO because it has plenty of power.

 

This just popped up on craigslist near here! http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/482996980.html. I am trying to get the guy on the phone, hopefully I can get in touch with him and see if he still has this little gem! I think I scored if I can pick this up. If not I decided to go with the Hobart Handler 187. I just hope I can run the Fabricator 210 on my 30amp breaker, I don't want to rewire the 220 in my shop area.

 

On a 220 there should be 2 breakers or a single lever with 2 smaller switches under it. you may want to find out if its a 30 or really a 60 (30x2). A 30 would be (2x15). Most standard 220v shop plugs are 50-60 amp circuits. Either way that is a Smoking Deal for $700. With something like that you would likely never feel the need to buy another wire feed.

 

Ya I need to look at my breakers again when I get home from work. I hope this dude with the welder calls me back! I'm super anxiouse!

 

Well did you get that TA210 like you where hoping? or was it another CL flake.

 

Just wanted to post that I did get the Fabricator 210 I found on Craigslist. I drove down to Denver and picked it up this afternoon!
Here's some pics. This thing is practicaly new for 700 bucks! the guy said he only had about 10 hours total weld time on it! Now I just need to get a bottle and I'm good to go.

 

Cool. I think you will be much happier with that then the Clarke welder.

 

Sweet I think that is the model with the 2 inductance settings to change the arc characteristics. Very good find indeed.