I am gonig to adjust my valves. They rattle when getting into higher RPMS right before i shift. After i read throguh alot of posts on it, the 22RE seems to be a noisy motor. I am not sure if this motor ever had them adjusted, it has 157K on the ticker. But if i adjust the valves, what does it cure? I do have a little rough idle and a miss at idle. Nothing bad but i can hear it and feel it. Will it cure arthritis and lupis? Just curious to what a valve adjsutment accomplishes? Thanks

 

it'll cure the tapping noise to some degree, and it will prevent excess wear on the top end, and if theyre really out of whack your valves may not be opening all the way, so it'll help the engine breathe better.

oh, and it also cures erectile disfunction...

 

Valve stem wear.

 

Thanks Guys!!! Will work on the valves this weekend.

 

miss can be electrical, check plugs, wires, cap.

 

It could account for a lack of compression. I bought a used head of someone before and the valve lash was so tight that one of the cylinders got zero compression and another had really low compression.

 

It is looking like it may be a bit more. I was doing some searching for the loud rattle i have in the motor right after i crank it up. It lasts for about a second, then never is heard again till next startup. So It is looking to be a timing chain. Unfortuantely the previous owner said he was going to install a new timing chain but he said the current one looked shiney so he didnt do it, since he thoguht it was already changed. BUT all the threads discussing the timing chain point to it. OH well, i will have to purchase parts on Monday and have at it next weekend. I have to go out of town tomorrow for work and it looks like i will drive the big truck since i am a tad worried about the chain going on me. The previous owner said he had the rattling noise at start up for like 2 years. I will pop the valve cover on sunday and see if i can see how loose it is Not a real bad thing at least i know i will have a new chain in there and a new head gasket while i am at it.

 

The thing with the rattling at start up is pretty common with 22R's its usually valves and/or timing chain. The later 22R's have only one weak point and thats the timing chain. The chain gets worn out and loose then breaks the Guides inside the cover and will eventually wear into the water jacket of the cooling system. I changed my chain and guides last year and I still have pieces of the old guides in my oil pan lol. There is a company out there that makes a Urathane coated metal guide for the 22R but they're a bit pricey. Loose valves are better than tight ones, too tight on the valves and they wear your valve train excessively. Mine 22RE still has the typical marble in the case rattle when I start it. I've found it really helps to get better oil in your high mileage 22R. But, I'm sure someone will dissagree with me but thats my two cents.

 

As mentioned it can potentially cure low compression. I've been meaning to inspect mine, I hope the valve lash is the only problem.

 

I think your valves need to be adjusted when the motor is hot, so have your gloves ready...
LCEngineering has heavy duty timing chain guides, I used them when I rebuilt...

 

So if i inpesct my timing chain by pulling the valve cover, and the plasticguides are not busted, does that mean the chain is OK?

I have a few things that came up when searchnig for the timing chain noise.

1. Was the timing chain was loose hitting the timnig cover making a loud noise at startup. So i will check for the guides being broken.

2. The noise could be from a lack of oil at start up, posibly caused by an oil filter that doesnt have a drainback valve.

3. The chain can slap at startup and go away after oil pressure gets to the tensioner to quiet it up.

I can change the filter easy enoguh, i am just not sure bout the looseness. If the guides are intact, then is it safe to believe the chain is OK? Or is there a way to test chain slack without pulling the cover off?

 

and if they are to tight it will make it idle smoother.

Noise a higher engine speeds that some people would attribute to valves almost always is something else.

Sounds like you got a problem with your timing chain (likely a broken guide). So pull your valve cover and have a look see.

 

i have been told it will cure after-fires

 

tensioner is mechanical. the slap would most likely be on the driver's side where the guide can be worn, not tensioner side, that should always be engaged fully. yes, a chain can stretch, even with good guides, and i guess if the tensioner were at full travel there may be slap. and i would think a stretched chain, and worn guides, could throw off the valves a degree or two as well.
my guide was broken at 60K but the chain made no noise.

 

yeah, get a flashlight, and when you go to adjust the valves take a look down into the timing cover from above.

guides should be good, chain should look/feel tight, and in generally good shape.

 

Definitely; Look at the driver's side of the timing gallery: Is the plastic timing guide broken? And if so, are there grooves worn into the cover? Both are bad, but you can get a timing chain/gear/tensioner/steel guide kit from eBay for a fair price, as well as a timing cover. The reason for the new timing cover was outlined earlier here by Prophet_MX (It happened with me!)...just scroll up a little.

The tensioner is fed by pressurised oil, so there will be a little rattling at first when you start. As far as valves, don't run them tight, esp. the exhausts; Otherwise you'll burn them. Run the exhausts at .013 (A hair looser than .012), but keep the stock .008 for the intakes.