well I'm getting only 12 MPG with my new rebuilt 3.0 engine...replaced EGR valve,pcv valve,02 sensor, serviced injectors, replaced exhaust system from front pipe back including cat. Only thing I didn't replace yet was the gas filter...which I have in my garage. Lines are very rusty and I was told by a few mechanics I should leave the old filter on due to the condition of the fuel lines and I might create more problems...anyone think the new filter would significantly increase the MPG? I know there are fuel filter replacement threads to be found on this site..how difficult would replacement fuel lines be?

 

I replaced mine since I didn't know how old it was, and my lines were pretty rusty also but the lines came right off of it with little trouble. The bolts holding the fuel filter cover were more of a problem.
As far as mileage, I haven't noticed a differance. But now I know it's at least been changed. Let us know if your milage goes up.

 

yea..mine is original @ 127K...have you noticed any kind of change in engine performance?

 

Not really I thought it might help make the truck a little snappier off the line but it didn't.
Compared to the new filter though it had some restriction to it.
In the same month I changed the filter on my 98' Ford truck and found I couldn't even blow throught it! Hard to believe the fuel pump could even get fuel to the injectors. The pump has to be releaved from having to work so hard.
That was actually the first fuel filter I have even seen that was so retricted I couldn't blow throgh it.
My bro and I were curious so we cut the cannister open and found alot of rusty looking sediment on the filter inside,...then we lit it on fire
Damn thing burned for almost a half hour.

 

hmmm...well I'm going camping in a few weeks..maybe I'll take the old one with me if I change it..probably keep the skeeters away..

 

Is it in perfect time? Cap? Rotor? Wires? PLugs? Please tell me you used factory plug wires.....Toyotas run like $%# on aftermarket plug wires. I had some fancy schmancy super wires on my 89, i yanked those junkers off and tossed on the factory ones, and my most recent MPG was 18 average (89 v6 AUTO btw)

 

hey man, spray those lines with penetrating oil a couple times before ya change it out. It might help out. And the bolts for that matter.

 

as far as timing, engine runs great..new toyota wires and NGK plugs..used the old cap and rotor that were replaced @ 120K.....have some PB blast for the old bolts...

 

Replacing fuel lines isn't very hard, per se. It can just be a pain. You just need to have a couple of tools and enough tubing and fittings. You'll need a flaring tube, tube bender, tube cutter (never use a saw...good way to fark it up), and flare nut wrenches.....although, a couple of crescent or open wrenches will work.

Don't use compression fittings....use flare fittings. The compression ones are more prone to leaking.

 

Hate to bring this up but if you want better gas milage you might want to swap in smaller tires...

 

If you have less skills and tools (aka flaring and bending) OR you are paying for the labor at shop rates - it might be cheaper and easier to get new pre bent hard lines from Toyota. They arent cheap ($100 or so) but cheaper than the labor to bend em up (if yer paying for that labor)...

Plus they will fit (once ya get the right ones)

(just got done with this - its a long story)

 

have you replaced your air filter? if you have a K&N have you washed it out?

 

as far as tires, I have the 31's same size that came stock with an SR5..not sure I want to go smaller..the oem toyota filter was replaced with the new engine..I may look into the pre bent lines from toyota I din't realize they were available...thanks for the ideas guys...

 

Auto or manual?

31" was stock? - check the gear ratio via the jack up the truck and turn the drive shaft method.

It was not uncommon for dealers to put 31" tires on trucks that had the 29" tires and sell em that way...

 

You're kidding!? I had to repair a section of my fuel lines and brakes lines on my '86. The repair line was pretty darn cheap and the tools weren't much more....particulary if you rent them (free, then) or buy discount (like Harbor Freight). Bending, IMO, doesn't require much skill....although, it can be a bit tedious. I suppose it depends on the person and how much line actually needed repairing. It only took me two partial days for the job. The rusty bolts, fittings, and retainers were the biggest problem.

 

Keith was due to be born at any time.
Its a one car garage and we needed to keep the DD in the garage in case of an emergency hosptial run.
Didnt want to do a fuel tank drop and R&R etc in a city street in Philly (Cant leave the tools in the truck etc)

I know the shop and trust em.
I pay shop rates becuase thats what they charge.
They have to make a living too.

They werent going to "run the clock" but it was going to "be what it was".
(im sure it was lesshours than I got charged for)

The line to the tank was shot.
It runs behind the tank.
So the tanks gotta come out.
Now once thats done - I had em R&R the brake lines too.

If *I* were doing it - Id bend up lines out of SS, and swap over to AN fittings.
But I wasnt doing the work - someone else was.

So we had a discussion - estimated cost to bend up a single line versus the cost of getting an OEM prebent line
-- bed up lines - 2-3 hours for all three lines (remember - stainless)
-- OEM lines - 0 hours (They werent charging me for phone call time - I know that took 1-2 hours because of screw ups etc)

I opted to limit the dame by getting OEM lines.
They didnt have an AN bender and hadn't worked with SS before.
So Id be paying for tools and they would be learning on my nickel.

I just wanted the truck back on the road as Keith was more of a priority than the 4Runner.

They did other stuff too - had to - for it to pass inspection.
I didnt have time to do it with a new born...

The plus side - Kathy now understand how much that "time I spend in the garage under one of the cars" is actually worth.

 

If it's an auto, 12 MPG is not out of the normal experience, especially if you live at altitude or in hilly terrain where you can't hold the monster overdrive. In which case regearing lower (to 5.29) would really help.

With manual tranny, 4.88's and 33's, I can get almost 20MPG cruising at 70 MPH 3000RPM. I actually get worse mileage going slower/lower RPM because I'm in the throttle harder trying to keep speed up over the rolling hills.

 

no I don't live in the Rockies...unfortunately...I'm at sea level...it's a 3.0 Auto...4x4...4.88's...mostly driving around town...

 

Close to EPA ?
This sticker shows 13/17

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post50533878

22RE was rated 19/22

 

thanks..ewong..yea I guess I'm not that far off then...must be the price of over $3.00..thats getting to me...appreciate you helping out a NY Giants fan with some good info..