Can someone hook me up with the propper procedure for adjusting my engine valves in my 94SR5 4Clyn ????

I would like to hear any feedback as well, weird noises, knocking, and how adjusting your vavles got rid of the sound.


Please help !!!!! i know the clearances are .008 and .012 thou hot.... but i need some feedback from others that have done this, anything !!!

 

Pretty simple procedure. Intake valves are on passenger side and exhaust valves are on driver side. Remove valve cover. Roll engine over till timing mark is at 0* on the timing cover and check to see if #1 or #4 is at tdc by moving rockers to see which is loose and that tells you what cyl is at TDC. #1 @tdc adjust both Intake and Exhaust on #1. Adjust #2 intake and #3 exh. Roll engine 360* and bring #4 to tdc on compression stroke. Adjust #4 intake and Exh. and #2 exh and #3intake valve. The haynes manual has a pretty good description of the procedure so if you have never done it I recommend getting a book to get a feel for the procedire. I also recommend the angled feeler gauges to make it easier to get them in and out. When adjusting make sure there is a slight drag on the gauge but that it isn't too tight or stuck. Sometimes it takes a few tries but you get the feel for it after a few. It is important to adjust valves regularly on an engine with mechanical valvetrains to keep from burning valves. There will always be some noise from mechanical rockers but it should not be excessive. I did mine last week and it quieted down quite a bit. Later, Matt.

 

Thanks for the excellent description.... did you stick to the reccomended valve clearance specs? Or did you go tighter on different ones to work the noise out.....

 

.007 int. and .011 exh. stone cold engine. i try and slip .008 and .012 to make sure they are set at .007 and .011. that is for my 87 22re.

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html page 21 (EG1-35) is the FSM method. Same instructions that Matt posted above, but with pictures. And like tortis most set them to .007 in and .011 ex cold, since working on them hot can be mighty painfull and you can be sure they are at the same temp when cold. As the clearance's can change when they are hot by the time you get to the last set, do to cool down.

A trick that I have learned is when you check the drag, is to not hold your srewdriver on the adjuster screw since you will be pushing down on it effecting the true drag reading. Instead I loosen the nut enough to turn the screw and then hold my finger on the rocker arm firm against the cam as I am checking the gap with the feeler guage.