Should I put any kind of sealer on the rubber gaskets first,or just replace them dry. This is my second time replacing them and the last set lasted only 30,000 miles. Maybe that's good. Let me know your thoughts and if where the gaskets come from make any differance.
Thanks

 

I just replaced them dry per the FSM. No leaks at all.

 

The FSM says to use FIPG on the corners of the semi-circular portion. I highly recommend you do. They will leak soon after if you don't.

Page EG2-80:http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf

 

X2 at the specified areas in th FSM, otherwise you may be wasting your time...

 

The first time I replaced mine I used the FIPG in the corners as the FSM said. They were leaking the next day. I tried tightening them just a little bit past the recomended torque and it didnt stop. So then I tore it back down and found that the oil was leaking over the top of the gaskets, between the gasket and the valve cover. No leaks between the head and the gasket, bone dry. So I went and bought another OEM set and used FIPG in the corners and also put a bead up in the groove in the valve covers. Be careful not to put to much or the gaskets wont seat up in the covers like they should.

No leaks for over a year and 10K. And no smelling like burned oil after driving!

 

Yep, I believe it. I might be having that same issue at this moment, and was planning on doing just that to fix it. Except I don't care what brand the gaskets are. I kept trying to convince myself that it was "unnecessary" to use the FIPG on the whole gasket, aye, aye aye...Well that won't be neglected in the future, trust me. I'm also glad to know it ain't just me having trouble with theirs.

I've been known to call my 3vze "The oil leakingest damn engine EVER!". NO LIE. I hate those fricken valve covers, what a PITA.

 

my passengers side leaks badly.. to replace the pass side you have to take the whole intake chamber off dont you..? thanks

 

Oh yeah, it's tons o' fun. Plan on a few hours minimum. Takes me about 6.

 

Yep, a few hours minimum...especially if you've never done it before. I don't have my EGR system hooked up, so it takes me a little under 4hrs to have it apart and back together again.

One tip or two.... when you pull the plenum, leave the throttle body on. And, after you've removed the EGR, leave the vacuum lines on that side of the plenum intact. Then, pull the plenum over to the side and upside down leaving the valve cover exposed. Vacuum any debris out of the manifold area. Keeps the crap, if there is any, from getting into the head. And take your hood off. That makes it a lot easier. (This is how I've come to do it, anyway.)

 

Another thing to keep in mind is that not all o-ring style rubber gaskets are the same. I have used a Fel-pro valve cover gaskets during a valve adjustment and I was not impressed. The Rock gaskets have a softer more rubber like feel not the firmer plastic feel of the Fel-pro's. With all the engine work I have had to do on this beast I have probably put on 7 pr 8 sets of valve cover gaskets and the only ones to leak where the hard rubber Fel-pro types. The cheaper soft rubber Rock gaskets work great. Like the above posts say you also need to observe the FSM and use FIPG in the 4 spots per gasket I prefer "the Right Stuff" by Permatex due to its heavier consistency and with all my motor tear downs I can tell you this stuff is like motor glue when it comes time to remove something.