The pilot bearing on the 3.4 I am putting into my '94 4runner was shot and needed to be replaced. Not an easy task, usually. I wasted a few hours, then found this gem on the web.

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First, I found a deep well socket with an O.D. slightly smaller than the hole through the pilot bearing. I then filled the inside of the socket with duct tape and also wrapped the outside of the socket with duct tape, so that the socket just fits snugly into the bearing. I then filled the void in the end of the crankshaft behind the pilot bearing with some cheap wheel bearing grease.I placed the socket into the pilot bearing hole and hit the end of the socket firmly with a hammer until I felt the socket hit the crankshaft. Each time I hit the socket with the hammer, the hydraulic action of the displacement of the thick bearing grease pushed the pilot bearing outward a bit. Once the socket hit the crankshaft, I removed the socket and refilled the void behind the pilot bearing. I repeated this process until the pilot bearing was free.

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I modified the process a bit. I don't have deep sockets that are less than 1/2" diameter.

I used a .410 diameter air chisel that came with my air hammer. A few wraps of duct tape and the seal was perfect. I used another air chisel end to pack the void with grease. A couple of whacks with the hammmer, top up the grease, etc, and after a few rounds of this, the bearing popped right out. Start to finish, less than two minutes from the first hammer strike to bearing in hand. It took longer to round up the chisels, the tape and grease.

Try it yourself.

 

Oldest trick in the book, but good info none the less. Electrical tape works great too, and doesn't have the texturing duct tape does, so you get a better seal.

However, it doesn't work with all vehicles. Some, like AMC V8 engines, there is a freezeplug-style plug in the end of the crank. If you use this method, it will blow that plug out. I know, cause we did it on my buddies Jeep, and had to take the engine back out. DOH! Toyotas do not have that problem however.

 

I just use the SST or a slide hammer....

 

I rented a SST from Kragen and it bent, it was lame. I bought one and it bent as well. Finally, I jammed a small socket between the puller arms, so they coudln't bend. Finally got it out. This would have been a good trick to know.

 

I have the TOYOTA SST.
Its not gonna bend....

 

I saw this tip on tv's Extreme 4x4 show. I haven't tried it though.

 

How would you use a slide hammer to remove it?

The one I have has an embedded screw in the end that screws into whatever you are trying to pull. There didn't seem to be a good way to screw it in to anything that that was going to hold well enough to pull the bearing out.

 

I tried everything on my 22re. The hydraulic method w/grease and then a rented slide hammer and SST rented from Auto Zone. I wound up cutting mine out with a dremmel tool and cutting wheel. Pain!!!

 

Some slide hammer ktis have a small semi curcular peice with a "lip" on it. Slip the peice in and have the lip catch the underside. The wedge something in there to hold it in place and slide hammer away.

The really nice slide hammer pilot bushing removals tools come with a three fingered split with lips on all 3 fingers. Slip it it. Then adjust the nut/bolt that expands the fingers so that they wedge out. Attach to slide hammer and op it out.

 

I just took a 6" bolt & ground the head to fit just inside the pilot hole, then I used the lip of the bolt head to catch the bearing & pulled it out leveraging it against a long socket & holding the threads of the bolt with channel locks. Popped right out.

 

a 3/8" craftsman extension is exactly the right size for the pilot bearing on a 3vze. used greese method twice now... slow, messy, but effective

 

I just got my tranny off to do the cluth on my 3vze and the bearings rained down on me. So the inner race and bearings were out w/ the inner race being still in the crank. I have a pilot bearing puller that was able to get a grip on the inside of the race, but it wouldn't pull it. I left the puller wedged into place and used my tried and true method. Come along attached to the rear axle and the puller. A few cranks and it popped out.

Thats the second time I've had to use that method. So far as the hydraulic method, I've heard that wet newspaper will also work.

Anthony

 

I had the same problem I sprayed it with pb and left the puller on it with tension came back 20 minutes later and it had moved out a little repeated the process until it came out.

 

X2... it works...