another 3vze HG repair
#1
another 3vze HG repair
Well it seems the driver's side HG on my 15k mile remanufactured 3vze has begun to fail. Symptoms are: oil in the 2,4,and 6 cylinders, coolant leak above thermostat, low compression on the stated cylinders. Other than buying all new necessary gaskets, what else should i do? I'm not buying new cams, headers, or getting head work done as i'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible. Thanks as always
edit: i'm going with the MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket rather than the cheaper graphite type.. any pro's/cons?
edit: i'm going with the MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket rather than the cheaper graphite type.. any pro's/cons?
Last edited by 95RunnerSR5; May 15, 2007 at 07:15 PM.
#2
Well it seems the driver's side HG on my 15k mile remanufactured 3vze has begun to fail. Symptoms are: oil in the 2,4,and 6 cylinders, coolant leak above thermostat, low compression on the stated cylinders. Other than buying all new necessary gaskets, what else should i do? I'm not buying new cams, headers, or getting head work done as i'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible. Thanks as always
edit: i'm going with the MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket rather than the cheaper graphite type.. any pro's/cons?
edit: i'm going with the MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket rather than the cheaper graphite type.. any pro's/cons?
#4
If you get the MLS gaskets you will NEED to have the block machined and ditto with the heads. The MLS gaskets are much much less forgiving than the graphite slipper plate jobbies.
If you go that route, contact ARP, and get true headstuds from them. Should run in the 120 dollar range or so. Headstuds + MLS + block/head resurfaced = no more HG problem ever again!
(But you do owe it to yourself to put in 1mm oversized valves at the very least.)
Cams can be done when you change your next timing belt and idlers, as you have to pull off the upper plenum to swap the top idler anyhow....
If you go that route, contact ARP, and get true headstuds from them. Should run in the 120 dollar range or so. Headstuds + MLS + block/head resurfaced = no more HG problem ever again!

(But you do owe it to yourself to put in 1mm oversized valves at the very least.)
Cams can be done when you change your next timing belt and idlers, as you have to pull off the upper plenum to swap the top idler anyhow....
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; May 16, 2007 at 03:11 AM.
#6
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 36
From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
If you have oil in #2, 4 & 6 and low compression, that sounds like the rings are shot or broken. You said you have a coolant leak above the thermostat? Where exactly? Do you have pics?
#7
i'll get pics later its raining out now. but it is clearly comming from the HG and not the thermostat housing.
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#8
the block and heads came to me as a long block from oregon engine rebuilders and it has an unlimited mileage warranty but i would have to pull it, strip down to long block, and send back. then wait for him to fix it and ship it back so i can re-assemble it and put it back in. this is my DD and i can't afford to be out of a vehicle that long. i will call the guys tonight and see what they say to do...hopefully they will offer to pay for everything i need.
#9
link to the MLS gaskets
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-95...ayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-95...ayphotohosting
#12
seemed to be when i ordered. they have great customer service also.
the factory head gaskets blow more than aftermarket. i'm looking for something of high(er) quality
the factory head gaskets blow more than aftermarket. i'm looking for something of high(er) quality
#16
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 36
From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
#19
heres my buildup thread and i tryied to keep it low on the $$.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=top+end
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=top+end


