Hi guys,
I've been having a few issues with my truck lately. I thought I had a bad rear wheel bearing so I pulled the axle yesterday. Turned out the bearing is fine, but my rear differential fluid was dirty and way down. I just changed the fluid in February (~5000km ago) so this is weird. I'm thinking I have a bad seal, but both axle seals look good. I'm thinking it's the oil seal where the drive shaft connects to the diff housing through the u-joint. How hard is it to change this seal?

Next question. To pull the axle I had to disconnect the brake line. After I connected it again, I accidentally let the master cylinder run dry when bleeding the system. I've heard I need to bleed the master cylinder, but I can't find any info on how to do this. Help?

I bled the system though and right now the pedal goes way down, but I still have front brakes. The rear brakes aren't working though. I'm thinking they may be grossly misadjusted, so I'm wondering how I adjust them? I know I need to move the adjuster wheel, but how do I get at it with the drum on?

Thanks guys,

Steve

 

FYI, my truck is a 1989 4Runner V6 SR5 if that changes anything.

 

changing the pinion seal is not hard, but it sounds like you would be better off taking it to a competent shop. Bleeding the brakes is not hard either, but you need to start bleeding from the brake furthest away from the master cylinder, ie: right rear, then left rear, right front etc. Also get a repair manual!

 

x2 on above.

You've got a lot of air in your lines now. Search term "bench bleeding" to learn how to really get the air out of your master efficiently and quickly.

Do not forget to bleed your LSPV valve as well.

I've found a vacuum pump to be very helpful to draw fluid through the lines if there is a lot of air bubbles in the way. Something like this Mighty Vac.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39522

Link just to give you an idea of what I am talking about. Might not be necessary... but they are really helpful.

 

Thanks. Money is a little tight at the moment and I do have the mechanical skills to do this, I'm just new to working on 4 wheeled vehicles. My bleed order is LR, RR, RF, LF, proportioning valve. I'm going to rebleed the rear brakes tomorrow to make sure I got all the air out of the system. So, is there actually something to bleed at the master cylinder? I've never heard of this before because on my dirtbike, if I run the master cylinder dry I just dump more fluid in the reservoir and start pumping.

For the pinion seal, will I need to remove any bearings or have to set the preload on any bearings or is it as simple as disconnecting the U-joint and pulling out the companion flange?

 

Check out this link...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Will have lot's of answers for now and in the future.

It's for a '93 but you'll have similar parts on your truck.

 

Thanks a bundle for the link. I'd love to buy a FSM, but I only plan on keeping the 4Runner for another year and just don't think it's worth it at this point. I bought the 4Runner as a cheap commuter vehicle while I was in school in Edmonton and plan on upgrading once I have some spare cash.

 

Upgrading from a 4Runner..... you've totally lost me.

 

I think he means he wants to upgrade to a 3rd gen.

 

Upgrading to a newer Toyota truck. I race dirtbikes and am getting sick of hauling a trailer. Plus, my 4Runner has seen too many harsh winters, ie, it's really, really rusty. While I enjoy wrenching on vehicles, I want something that I don't have to worry about breaking down. I'm hoping for a late 90's Tacoma as my new vehicle.

 

Upgrade to a 3rd Gen.... still lost me. Everyone knows the 2nd Gen 4Runner is the pinnacle.

Don't they....?

 

Actually, if I was going to stick with a 4Runner I'd buy another 1st gen, only one without any rust issues. It may still happen as a second vehicle eventually.