wondering what size shocks i will need after i install a ubolt flip kit on the rear of my 89 pickup? i am looking at skyjacker shocks and the sizes they have are 0-2" or 3-4" of lift. thanks guys

 

I'm running stock length with the flip, 1.5" shackles, and AALs. I mounted the new tabs like this:


As you can see I need new shocks but I'm gonna wait until I can relocate the top mounts and probably the bottoms again. But, mounting them like this made up for the lift (they're about 2-3" higher than stock) so the stock length shocks still work. It all depends on where you mount the tabs, how much lift, and where your top mounts are. Measure 3 times, order and weld once.

 

i am running stock height and i want to mount the shocks like this / \. what size should i order?

 

not sure about shock size but if your gonna put them like this / \ then i would recomend Sky's relocator kit...i got it...it's great

 

Yup, that's completely different. I don't know that one.. yet

 

I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Your saying you can run stock stocks on a mild lift with the flip kit because your moving the mounts up 2-3" from their original position? do you still have adiquate tuck and droop running the stock length? Do you suppose I could do the flip witthout lift and be ok?

Thanks in Advanced
Chris

 

If the shock is said to be for 4" lift its probably not long enough.

I'd have to crawl under my rig to look at my procomp shocks but they ended up not being long enough but were for 4" of lift.

Best bet is to run without the shocks and find something close by to flex your truck out to see what your articulation is like then measure. Thats the only bullet proof way to get the right shock length.

right now my shocks limit my down travel by almost 8" .. =(

 

oh, since your gonna have to weld the shock mounts on. Lots of people just use the tube cross member above the rear axle. Weld on some solid rounds or a bolt for your new upper shock mounts.

heres what budbuilt has got going




http://www.budbuilt.com/new/shock_mounts.html

 

Yeah, pretty much. I think droop is limited slightly but it compresses to the bumpstops. It's not ideal but will work till I can do the canted setup like was posted above and better shocks. Here's some flex:






It works ok for now but I do plan to replace the springs too.

 

I was curious because I wasn't planning on doing the shocks like /\ because I figured it would cause more body roll.

~*~ BUT ~*~

What are some advantages to this mod? Is there anything that has to be moved around to put them at that angle? How long of shocks do you have to buy? I'm sure that depends on rear lift as well.

 

triangular shocks provide worse on-road handling according to some, but because of the positioning, you can get more droop in the flex. i have triangular rear shocks and notice no adverse road effects

 

pictures of your setup please - drguitarum2005

 

the only pic i already have is sort of a shock mount pic while i was investigating a leak...ill post it for now but get some better pics of the whole setup when i get home

 

Cool Deal ... I'll be looking for the pictures. I'm sure I'll have some questions.

 

anyone running budbuilts bold on shock mounts, im curious as to how they hold up, i dont have access to welding on the spot, and if these will work i plan on going with them...any ideas?

 

This may be a stupid question...but if one were to WELD the shock tabs on the axle housing could one just simply drain the fluid, weld them up and refill?
My welding experience has been from AutoBody repair,...thin gauge sheet metal.

 

Don't worry about draining the fluid. if there's anything in the tube where you're welding shock tabs it's gonna be about 1/8" in the bottom. Hell I didn't even drain the rear when I welded on the ring gear protector.

 

I welded a bolt across the u-bolt flip plate and mounted the shocks to it and the stock locations. Stock shocks work with 63 chevies.

 

No way the stock rear shocks have enough travel to flex out the chevy springs with out the shock limiting travel.

I did not drain my diff when I welded on my diff armor, the diff housing is thick enough so that you shouldn't have tp worry too much about burning through it, just don't get crazy with the heat.

 

Thanks for the info!!