Hi guys,
I was wondering what, if anything you're doing to take care of the upper link hitting the gas tank allowing hardly any flex?

I had a 98 Amigo with the same problem and some people had custom bent control arms made and I believe Calmini now sells a kit that uses a bent control arm to address the problem.

I'm assuming for the most part everyone's just dealing with it, but to me it seems like such a waste of articulation. With roughly 4" coils the arm is practically an inch from hitting it while level.

This may be an old topic and I apologize for not searching, but even if so there appears to be no real answer. I would think by now that someone or some company would address this issue as it would appear to be a lucrative proposition.

I mean- AllPro sells control arms at ~$250/pr to address the length issue, but still does nothing to keep that stupid control arm from hitting the gas tank. I guess moving the gas tank is the only other option, but it seems like someone would come up with a better solution by now.

Am I the only one who's concerned about this? I mean- I'm considering going to leaf springs in the rear just to get rid of this problem. I guess the only other option would be to have a custom control arm made, but I'd think that a corrected control arm would sell like hot cakes, no?

Please feel free to give your feedback; but be gentle

 

Anyone have any ideas? At least post up if you have an alternative idea (like an easyish way to move the gas tank).
Or post up if you're in the same boat as me; maybe we can draw some attention to this matter!
Thanks,
~R

 

Mine bent pretty quicklt after installing some cruiser coils. I had a spare set which I got beefed up with heavier walled tube, and also made them an inch longer to help the pinion angle.

Haven't fitted them yet but.

 

I am running the All-pro upper control arms. I bought them used.....$250.00 is way too much for what they are.

When I replaced them I bent the lip of the tank down some. I am sure it still makes contact, but I am able to get almost full droop before it does.

Here is a pic...cant see the tank too well


Flexy

 

I have FJ coils and that's why it's about an inch from hitting the gas tank while sittng still...I tried using a brass hammer and punch to bend the tank some but it barely worked.

I was wondering if the AllPro control arms helped, but for $500 for the complete set I could do a nice leaf swap and forget about it! I know a lot of people think going from coils to leafs is a backwards move- and I can see why- but the articulation is better, there's no gas tank issue, and no worries about ripping off the control arm mounts which I've heard of happening more than once.
Not to mention the ride would probably be better compared to the verrrry tipsy FJ80's- or is that just me? Also- the stock coil set-up would technically need to be completely redone to effectively have the same geometry ~4" taller.

Regardless I'm in the process of installing some superlift or skyjacker (I jst rememger they start wth an S) springs. Hoefully they'll stiffen the ride a little along w/ my new RS9000's. If I'd saved my money *whidh is impossible.

In theory, it shouldn't be that hard to fabricate a control arm that fits. Basically you measure from eye to eye with the stock (or 1" longer) arms; thrn bent/weld, whatefer until the arm is bent enough to not hit the gas tank, but also not anything above it.
I wish I could fabricate/weld; I'd be more than happy to prototype it.

 

I will eventually go leaves in the back too, but until then mine works ok. I am running long side cruiser coils, All-Pro upper control arms, adjustable panhard bar with Pro-comp drop bracket, and a long travel CV driveshaft.....my driveline doesn't hit the gas tank skid anymore. I bought everything used, so I have a total of $300.00 in the rear end......not even 1/8th of what I have in the front end.

 

If you know the length, Kartek can cut some DOM and thread the ends, much cheaper than getting them from Allpro. That what we had made for Lance's rig.