A little help here please...

Spent from 9 am until 2 PM routing all my wiring and then throwing the switch.

Zip, nada, zero, no fog lights!

Used this info from another forum, and the wire I tapped is not working like he stated.
Not working for me, and I have double checked it all.
I suspect the green wire that WB FJ tapped into is not hot on my right when the steering wheel stalk is turned on for the pimping lights or headlights.

Probably so, as I even cut that green wire that is on the ARB running lights, and they still lit up when the running lights were on.

I just took a lead from my tester and put the sharp end into the white plastic plug called UL002 onto the blue wire that runs down to the ARB running lights, and put the other end of the test lead right to the battery.

I heard the sound of a relay closing, and I leaned forward and my ARB running lights, the stock FJ running lights, and the IPF fogs lit up!
Yippy, I am getting somewhere.

The reason the FJs running lights lit up is the hot wire trick I just did feeds that green wire that feeds both the ARB and stock running lights.

What I want to do now is tap either to the low beam of my headlights, or better yet to a fuse that is only hot when the headlamps or running lamps are on.

The latter would be better, or the Toyota fog light switch will always be lit up when the rig is turned on.
I would rather the switch only glowed like the other switches when the steering wheel stock is turned to running/headlights.

Is it possible to tap to a fuse to do the latter?
If so, walk me through it please.

 

I have the entire wiring diagram if that'll help. Send me an email address if you want a copy.

 

PM sent.

 

corey i had the same problem , and had to switch to a non toyota switch until i can get it figured out .

airrikk17

 

Yeah, the switch is deff good though, as they turned on, but not from the green wire I tapped into.

Rain is back again today, so I will try to wrap this up next Saturday.
I will get out my tester and try to find the correct wire to tap into.

 

Just for reference, this is the switch I am using too.
https://www.shop.fjcruiseroffroad.co...?productId=135

And the install photo.
Pay no attention to where it says to use the headlights, the diagram was originally for driving lights, not fogs.
But the other wiring is the same.



I just read on FJ Cruisers forum that another guy had the same problem I did with that green wire not giving the juice up.

Have a PM into him to see which wire he used.

 

Corey - there have been a few people with this problem. IIRC it was related to the way the marker and turn indicator lights were originally wired. In the cases I've seen the marker and turn indicator lights were wired backwards. There should be 3 wires going into the ARB marker/turn signal lamp housing on the backside of your ARB bumper. Did you test each wire with a multimeter to see which one receives power when the vehicle marker lights are turned on? I believe it's a red wire, but I honestly haven't looked at mine in quite a while so I could be wrong. If the other wire (red?) receives power, then you should be able to use it. Let me know if I'm off and I'll go pull some wires out of my FJC and see how I did it.

 

Thanks Sol, I do not remember all the colors.
ARB has them taped over at the plug, but I think there were three, and one was black.

Also I did not tap the brown ground wire from the UL002 harness to the ARB running lamps, instead I ran the ground wire upto a side bolt in the fenderwell where one of the battery cables from off of the battery is grounded to.
Also used that same spot to run the black wire that is part of the wires where the red one goes directly to the battery.

When I get a good day, maybe even this week if the rain lets up (the wonderful outdoors is my garage) after work I will test for a hot wire.

And just for kicks, when I got back this morning from getting groceries, I turned on the left turn signal, and when it blinked when the switch was pushed in, so did my fogs, just like Joel's did.

Turning on the right signal had no effect though, since I am wired into the left turn signal wire which is the green one on back of the ARB running lights.

 

Well I really need to see it to be able to figure it out but I'll give it a blind try.

First the way the IPF diagram is set up you won't get any power to the switch unless the hi-beams (or whatever power source you use) are on.

You can substitute any hot wire and in this case I think you are trying to use the marker lights. You've said "running" lights a few times so I'm not sure if you meant marker lights or DRLs. The DRL circuit sends "half" power to the low beams and I don't think that is going to be a good signal wire to power your switch.

I popped the hood on mine and I can see the green wires to both left and right marker lights but the marker lights are also the turn signals so you my have tapped the wrong wire. Turn the blinker on and see if it lights up

If you want the lights to just run independently you can always just run the yellow wire from the IPF harness to the ignition hot circuit or the battery for that matter.

The hot wires on the marker lights are Red for the right side and Blue/white in the left.

 

Yes, running lights.
Back in my 'Cruisin days at the Renton loop, Alki, and White Center Herfys (showing my age here) from the mid 70s, we called them pimpin' lights

PS, will try to snag a pic too, unless the info is in the IPF sheet.
Will have to look later to see if they mention a color.

 

my yellow lights on my fab fours , i planned o nusing as parking type lights , are wired per their instructions and they are on when i put in parking mode , and blink when i use my turn signals , not a big deal , in fact its sort of nice really. butthey dont blink if i have them off , not in parking mode. im sure it has to do with the wire i tapped into for the power on the toyota side of it.

airrikk17

 

Have not finished mine yet, need about 20 minutes under the rig and dry weather.

It snowed today when I got home from work, we got about 1/2" or so here.