Hey, I wanted to see if anyone had replaced the alternator fuse on a 96 4runner or tacoma. I think I need a 10 mm socket to pull the bolt holding the fuse in place.... Any input would be helpful. Thanks,
Kyle

 

Just did this myself VERY recently, so it is fresh in my mind. I don't remember the exact size of wrench I used, but I think it was 8 or 10 mm. You have to separate the two halves of the fuse box which is a pain, then flip the upper half upside down so you have access to the underside. There is a relay right next to the alternator and ABS fuses. You will want to remove it (it slides out, but you have to unlatch it first) to get to the nuts which hold the fuse in place. Undo the nut on each side (they are different sizes) and be careful not to drop them anywhere, because they are probably not easy to get new ones. Slide out old fuse and then replace with a new one. After fastening in place, I started the truck to make sure everything was workin OK before I put the rest of things back together. Another note: I found it necessary to remove the battery to get the right amount of room to separate the fuse box halves and be able to rotate to gain access to underside. I then used jumper cables to connect battery to do the test for everything working OK. Hope this helps!

 

Just out of curiousity, what happened to the truck that the fuse blew?

 

I was jumping the battery with clamps that had just fell in the snow. I didn't get all the snow out of the clamps and my positive clamp had an arc across it..... I'm guessing that's what did it

 

Thanks a lot, I was able to get the fuse replaced with your advice. I still don't have it running, but my battery is dead which was my problem in the first place. Do you think that your remote start was draining your battery?? I'm having a similar problem and was wondering if my alarm/remote start/motion sensor was draining the battery. Any thoughts?

 

I could be wrong, but I don't think it was the problem. After I had the reverse polarity mishap, I removed the car starter and have not had in in the vehicle since (it was missing the remote when I bought the vehicle.) I have another model Command Start with a remote (removed from my GM truck) which I am thinking of installing (it uses the same connector; I just need to verify that it is wired the same.) Anyhow, the current drain was happening BEFORE the polarity reversal problem and is persisting even with the remote starter removed. Initially I thought it was the culprit as there is a blinking LED wired to it (theft deterent.) I wanted to see if it was the problem, but it appears not. I guess I will continue my troubleshooting by removing fuses one at a time.......

Your alarm/starter combo COULD be the cause of your battery being dead, depending on the length of time parked. I had other vehicles with alarms which would typically go dead if left for 2-3 weeks without running, with a decent battery.

 

Wow, all that just to replace a stinking fuse???? Exactly how do you go about splitting the fusebox?

 

Once you get the box free from it's mounts, it'll kinda split open on it's own.

The hassle is dictated by how the fuse is designed. It deals with how the automotive industry deals with high current load in a small space. Something like a cartridge fuse (like in a home breaker panel) wouldn't fit in there.

 

Yeah I was changing my alternator and like a dumbazz i didn't disconnect the battery before hand and managed to drop the wire on the back of the alternator and it arched on the casing blowing my alternator fuse. Thanks to your guys' input though i changed the fuse this afternoon with no problems. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

how to you seperate the fuse box to get to the alternator fuse bolt. i see the tabs but i just cant manage to seperate it

 

That's a good question, how do you pry the box apart? Without breaking it? I found out by finding all the latches, which was tedious and then it came right out.
Thanks
Bill