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Pick up a 1989 toyoa single cab 22re. Barley ran when I got it it wouldn't go over 10 mph. Old seller said he replaced the head and redid the timing. I verifed time. Changed the lower intake manifold which had a hole on it. Throttle body, air flow sensor, tps, injectors, wires and plugs, distrubutor, got a new exhaust put on it, oh and fuel pressure regulator. It has fuel pressure at the rail now and it goes up while reving. If the timing is super advanced I can drive it( as far forward as the distributor will go) Possibly up to 45 mph. But it sputters and back fires. I'm out of ideas. Took it to a highly recommended shop. It's been 2 weeks and he told me he is also not finding anything wrong with it and will have to give me the truck back because he is losing money with how much time he is putting into it with no repairs or parts being installed. He verified fuel pressure, all parts I installed and timing and made sure all vacuumlines were hooked up correctly. I 100% understand him having to give it back. Its a buisness not charity. But now I don't know where else to look. The truck also had egr delete prior to me. Please help. It's a beautiful truck and want to get her on the road. But now the timing is back to spec it Barley runs can't Rev the engine and have to feather the pedal to get it to stay alive.
had the truck been sitting for a long period of time?
I have not looked into the fuel pump because the fuel pressure is at proper psi at the rail after changing the fuel pressure regulator. And I cam hear it turn on when I turn the ignition on. I plan on changing the whole sending unit because the float drops to E after a quarter tank. But don't want to dump more money until truck is in better running condition. It ideas perfectly fine at 950 fires right up. I'm just out of ideas
The truck has sit for what I know over a year prior to me getting it.
Pressure at idle doesn’t equate to pressure under load. A year of sitting with ethanol fuel can cause it to rust up and plug up. Could also be plugged fuel lines or filter.
Pressure at idle doesn’t equate to pressure under load. A year of sitting with ethanol fuel can cause it to rust up and plug up. Could also be plugged fuel lines or filter.
yeah I understand that. The fuel pressure rises as i Rev the engine.
and filter is new
Revving in park isn’t the same as under load. Need to test under load. Have you checked the timing advance and make sure it advances appropriately?
Once I got the timing correct I took it to a shop because I'm lost for what it could be. He verified timing is good and fuel system is good. And now said he is at a loss as well
Once I got the timing correct I took it to a shop because I'm lost for what it could be. He verified timing is good and fuel system is good. And now said he is at a loss as well
But how do I test under load. Once he kicks the truck out of the shop I'll have to start digging again
I've always just hooked a pressure gauge up and run a long line out of the hood and gone for a quick drive. If it stumbles that bad off idle, probably just need to have someone standing beside it and hold the gauge while someone puts the car in drive, holds the brakes, and tries to accelerate. Like doing a burnout.
did you check to see if the ecu is throwing a code?
speculating here, since this problem appears to have been related to the head replacement by the p.o.? i wondered if the cam gear(or distributor?) could be off a tooth, but since the timing light shows that it's timed right, i don't see how it could be off a tooth?? unless perhaps the harmonic balancer is separating, could that change the position of the groove on the pulley?? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cluded-254750/
another possibility could be corroded wiring splices in the fuel injector harness, where toyota made undocumented changes in the wiring, that don't match the wiring diagram in the factory manual... i had to go thru that, it was a nightmare to troubleshoot with a variety of symptoms that changed as it got worse: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-2...-i-had.311436/
a multimeter would show broken wires, but the injector needs more current to fire the injector reliably, so multimeter testing isn't always definitive here, you have to cut the harness open to verify one way or the other... i have no idea what year, if any, that toyota stopped hacking up the harnesses.
I have not looked into the fuel pump because the fuel pressure is at proper psi at the rail after changing the fuel pressure regulator. And I cam hear it turn on when I turn the ignition on. I plan on changing the whole sending unit because the float drops to E after a quarter tank. But don't want to dump more money until truck is in better running condition.
well, you know that you are keeping the truck, it's just too clean to sell.
since the tank has to be dropped anyway, it's just another $120 or so(?) for the fuel pump, it's worth it just for the peace of mind... it looks like you have a nice garage to work in, that's a big incentive :-) i can't fit my 4runner in the garage, it's too tall.
i just had to replace the fuel pump, the pressure had been good, just like yours, but it had this weird cold start problem, and then it finally just quit working last sunday... i already had an electronic fuel gauge installed, and it wasn't reading any pressure with the test jumper in and the ignition in the run position.
And I cam hear it turn on when I turn the ignition on.
you'll need to investigate that. under factory/normal operation, the fuel pump doesn't turn on briefly when the ignition is turned to on; unlike subaru and honda. the only time the fuel pump runs is when the key is in the "start" position; when the key is returned to the "on/run" position once the engine has started; or when the Fp and B+ terminals in the check connector are jumped and the key is turned to "on/run". one other way to get the pump to run is to turn the key to "on/run", and then manually move the vane in the VAFM, which will run the pump as long as the vane isn't in the "no-flow" position.
Sorry late to respond to these. There are no codes from the ecu which is making the troubleshooting even harder. The fuel pump turned on when I put the vehicle to the start position.
The big garage is a plus but I have another project car holding up the space
The can't sell because the truck is so clean. Yeah I get that but if i cant fogure it out i might have to take the L. My current job is going to have me out of the country here pretty soon and don't want to have the truck sitting and then me having to start all over again upon return.
But the fuel pump i will look into if this shop doesn't figure it out. I do appreciate all the help you all are providing.
Got the truck back with no luck. Check codes. It has a code 51 and 52. Going to test the tps and make sure the throttle screw on the left side of the throttle body is right and start from there
If the engine is low on compression, like for example if the rings need to reseat from a long period of sitting, or you're at higher altitude than the original owner, you may need to compensate by loosening the AFM spring. It's located under the rectangular cover on top of the air box. The cover is siliconed in and requires careful removal. Turning the large gear-looking wheel that the AFM door spring is attached to counterclockwise around a quarter turn might make all the difference. Setting it so that you can hit the throttle quickly without the truck missing will get you your max mpg's and power output for a stock 22RE.
I say this because I found I needed to adjust my AFM spring due to both wear and using it a higher altitude than I had before. Truck refused to idle at altitude and missed when I burped the gas. Played with the spring setting for ten minutes and it worked great again!
Also, if someone messed with the screw at the manifold sensor on the throttle body, that could be causing your symptoms. A crack or poor seals on the front intake tube from airbox to intake manifold could do the same.
If the engine is low on compression, like for example if the rings need to reseat from a long period of sitting, or you're at higher altitude than the original owner, you may need to compensate by loosening the AFM spring. It's located under the rectangular cover on top of the air box. The cover is siliconed in and requires careful removal. Turning the large gear-looking wheel that the AFM door spring is attached to counterclockwise around a quarter turn might make all the difference. Setting it so that you can hit the throttle quickly without the truck missing will get you your max mpg's and power output for a stock 22RE.
I say this because I found I needed to adjust my AFM spring due to both wear and using it a higher altitude than I had before. Truck refused to idle at altitude and missed when I burped the gas. Played with the spring setting for ten minutes and it worked great again!
Also, if someone messed with the screw at the manifold sensor on the throttle body, that could be causing your symptoms. A crack or poor seals on the front intake tube from airbox to intake manifold could do the same.
truck has good compression I just replaced the afm with new. I'm going to get a slider Guage and make sure that screw is at 5/16 today.
i also just ordered an oem tps and knock sensor. Going to throw those in then I get them in and hope that fixes the codes present right now.
04-08-2024, 01:43 PM
