Worn valve adjustment Screw?
09-18-2017, 08:48 PM
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Worn valve adjustment Screw?
I know 22re's are known for sounding like a sewing machine but mine seems a bit excessive. It's mainly the ticking that's starting to worry me. I did set my valves to .007 and 0.11 cold and it did help. And yes my valve cover nuts are not torqued down too tightly. But the ticking persists. Upon a closer look, it looks like my valve adjustment screws are slightly worn out on one side. Could this be causing the ticking sound?
And another thing I noticed, as seen int he 2nd pic, there's a small chip in my #1 intake cam lobe. How bad is this?
Cam lobe
And another thing I noticed, as seen int he 2nd pic, there's a small chip in my #1 intake cam lobe. How bad is this?
Cam lobe
09-18-2017, 10:09 PM
#2
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Those tappet screws wear out of flat. It's the nature of their angle to the valve that makes them slide a little .every time they push.
They sometimes wear a divot in the end of the valve stem too.
Nothing to do but replace them if they're too bad. I wouldn't worry about them, if it were me.
As to the cam lobe, the chip means nothing, it may well have been there since the cam was ground.
What is more concerning is the scuffing on the cam ramping up to the lobe. Not good. What miles are on the engine?? And what motor oils do you use??
I'd carefully inspect every lobe for this scoring. It's the mark of running motor oils with too little zinc (ZDDP), or other improper lube conditions.
Are there any lobes that show substantial metal erosion??
This scoring will eventually get worse and the only repair is new cam AND all new rockers. This ongoing cam wear contributes to valve lash adjustments that open up quickly, getting noisier and noisier all the time.
They sometimes wear a divot in the end of the valve stem too.
Nothing to do but replace them if they're too bad. I wouldn't worry about them, if it were me.
As to the cam lobe, the chip means nothing, it may well have been there since the cam was ground.
What is more concerning is the scuffing on the cam ramping up to the lobe. Not good. What miles are on the engine?? And what motor oils do you use??
I'd carefully inspect every lobe for this scoring. It's the mark of running motor oils with too little zinc (ZDDP), or other improper lube conditions.
Are there any lobes that show substantial metal erosion??
This scoring will eventually get worse and the only repair is new cam AND all new rockers. This ongoing cam wear contributes to valve lash adjustments that open up quickly, getting noisier and noisier all the time.
Last edited by millball; 09-18-2017 at 10:14 PM.
09-18-2017, 11:06 PM
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Those tappet screws wear out of flat. It's the nature of their angle to the valve that makes them slide a little .every time they push.
They sometimes wear a divot in the end of the valve stem too.
Nothing to do but replace them if they're too bad. I wouldn't worry about them, if it were me.
As to the cam lobe, the chip means nothing, it may well have been there since the cam was ground.
What is more concerning is the scuffing on the cam ramping up to the lobe. Not good. What miles are on the engine?? And what motor oils do you use??
I'd carefully inspect every lobe for this scoring. It's the mark of running motor oils with too little zinc (ZDDP), or other improper lube conditions.
Are there any lobes that show substantial metal erosion??
This scoring will eventually get worse and the only repair is new cam AND all new rockers. This ongoing cam wear contributes to valve lash adjustments that open up quickly, getting noisier and noisier all the time.
They sometimes wear a divot in the end of the valve stem too.
Nothing to do but replace them if they're too bad. I wouldn't worry about them, if it were me.
As to the cam lobe, the chip means nothing, it may well have been there since the cam was ground.
What is more concerning is the scuffing on the cam ramping up to the lobe. Not good. What miles are on the engine?? And what motor oils do you use??
I'd carefully inspect every lobe for this scoring. It's the mark of running motor oils with too little zinc (ZDDP), or other improper lube conditions.
Are there any lobes that show substantial metal erosion??
This scoring will eventually get worse and the only repair is new cam AND all new rockers. This ongoing cam wear contributes to valve lash adjustments that open up quickly, getting noisier and noisier all the time.
As for the cam lobes, none looked much worse than the one in the pic. You suppose a full cylinder head rebuild is in order? I checked online and the cost of an entire head + camshaft assembly isnt too bad compared to the price and time of rebuilding.
Just recently I noticed fuel in my oil from a bad injector. I really have no idea how many miles it was running like that, but I guess the contaminated oil must have done some damage. Luckily I don't driven it often. New injectors + oil change solved that one.
Could there also be damage to the cylinder walls? Recently I did a hot compression test and got 170+ psi across all cylinders. Other than the ticking, this engine is running really well.
Last edited by mattyboi; 09-18-2017 at 11:12 PM.
09-19-2017, 09:08 AM
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As good as that sounds I don't think I can take this truck out in the back country without me being 100% sure it's fine lol Looking at cylinder head kits as we speak. I don't mind putting in the extra work for this truck since the main reason I bought it was to learn more about cars in general/project.
09-19-2017, 07:22 PM
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As good as that sounds I don't think I can take this truck out in the back country without me being 100% sure it's fine lol Looking at cylinder head kits as we speak. I don't mind putting in the extra work for this truck since the main reason I bought it was to learn more about cars in general/project.
If your head is not corroded, a valve grind and maybe a thin milling of its face is all it should need. Machine shops around where I am get about $150 for this work.
If it were me, I'd keep my known good head and put some new rocker arms and a new cam in it.
09-19-2017, 07:28 PM
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None of the aftermarket cylinder heads are the equal of a genuine Toyota casting. All I have ever seen are chinese slave labor goods.
If your head is not corroded, a valve grind and maybe a thin milling of its face is all it should need. Machine shops around where I am get about $150 for this work.
If it were me, I'd keep my known good head and put some new rocker arms and a new cam in it.
If your head is not corroded, a valve grind and maybe a thin milling of its face is all it should need. Machine shops around where I am get about $150 for this work.
If it were me, I'd keep my known good head and put some new rocker arms and a new cam in it.
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09-19-2017, 07:38 PM
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Sounds about right $$ for the rockers. NAPA stuff is usually good, but it pays to shop around for both price and quality. You should be able to get a cam a little cheaper. You can use the rocker towers for sure, but the shafts will have to be examined in order to say for sure whether they can give more service..
09-19-2017, 09:04 PM
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Sounds about right $$ for the rockers. NAPA stuff is usually good, but it pays to shop around for both price and quality. You should be able to get a cam a little cheaper. You can use the rocker towers for sure, but the shafts will have to be examined in order to say for sure whether they can give more service..
