1jz gtte into 95 4runner
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Last edited by 8784 runner; Mar 6, 2018 at 06:45 AM.
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Currently cant find the pic on my phone. But the wiring for the volt meter for alternator is simple enough. The wire colors are the same from the 1jz plug to the wires on the 4Runner. I forget the color/strip combo. But the base colors of the wires is Black,White,Red so it's pretty easy to know which goes where lol
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Unbolted the bracket cut the one fork off moved it up next to throttle cable and tacked it place. Ouick sanding and shot of paint cant even tell i touched it
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Cureently i sealed the metal edge with a hard set epoxy and then weath stripped a piece of aluminum over it. Pull the carpet back and you would never know it was thier
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Almost done, still have a little tig welding left in order for the top radiator connection to look good. Will have pics up and what was done when i do it. I did run a vacum line from the intake plenum to the stock vacum cannister. Started it and put it in 4wd and it actually actuated and worked lol. One more check off the wiring harness job.
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Lol yeah I know. I keep meaning to drive up to your place one of these weekends as well. Runs and drives, i think I've only put like 300 miles on it since the swap and tagged it. The auto goes down the road but it's not exactly what I wanted. I'm still waiting (4 months later) for your bell housing to come back. I sent it out to have a copy made. Hopefully get it back soon as I would really like to get the manual in it before winter. The auto works but it's just not what I thought it would be and you and i know how ruthless it can be with a manual behind it. On top of that this runner has factory 4:88's in it so with 31's it will have no problem smoking the tires at a red light
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Pic of the stainless 5/16\" lines i bent, i drilled and tapped threads into the frame. They come down from motor run along frame and jump over the trosion bar mount then high pressure rubber hose from the pump. I started with reg fuel line at first but figured out while heading home luckily that they dont handle fuel pump pressure very well.
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Since i removed the factory transfer case cooler i replaced it with this run. Fits very well against the frame. I was gonna build a small guard for it but i do not intend to whell this through the woods. I don't think the tire will kick anything up enoguh to damage it going down the road
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For the radiator it is the a brand new factory radiator. For the hook up i took the thermostat housing off the motor and cut the neck of it, rotated roughly 180° then welded back on. This puts it facing away from the motor and much eaisier to make the connection with no obstruction. Unfortunately i do not have a pic of the process. I orderd a 1 1/4\" 180° silicone Ubend. I cut it to fit and clamped everything together. I really do not like using hose clamps on anything pressure or visible.
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The exhaust guy wanted $900 to bend and install with the mufflers I provided. I politely laughed and said I'll be back after I picked the runner up and took it back home. So I spent I think maybe $300 on fittings,pipe and Vbands from summit. I wanted eaisly removable for any reason mainly for trans removal when needed. There is a small flex to help get under trans. I wanted a quite as possible with obstruction of flow. So I did a small packed straight through mini bullet to a directional baffle to a 7 or 8inch round straight though glass pack. End result is almost exactly what i wanted. I did fibergals wrap everything with stainless ties. To avoid any heats exposure to lines or the trans since they are pretty close. With the Vbands once everything was welded,painted and wrapped I did final install of the exhaust in less then 10mins. Well with the extra money to have those




