Im at the shop today working on an old GM but this is something that can be done on pretty much any vehicle. A little patience and the proper safety equipment and you can repair body panels FOREVER. I'm using body lead today to fill in weld seams, rust holes etc.

Most important thing to begin is to have a clean surface. Grind away all rust (front and back where possible), prep with a tinning butter. This tins the metal for the lead to adhere to. Heat the lead and push it around where you need it. It cools immediately so you can file it down and or use a 36 grit disc. You may have to go back and fill in some small pin holes here and there. Working on an upright surface just takes a little more patience.

After all the grinding is done, wipe the work area down with a mixture of baking soda and water. This will stop the acid from etching and causing rust. You now can coat with epoxy or whatever metal protection you like.

I learned this trade from my grandpa a long time ago. It's a permanent repair that last as long as your rig. It won't bubble like bondo or separate and hold water like fiberglass. Plus it's relaxing. There are tons of you tube videos with better instructions than I have provided. So if your ready to do some Permanent repairs (especially around the windshield frame). Give this a shot.

 

Lead is the real deal. Your skills are rare these days.

Try to find others who want to learn. There is certainly money to be earned.

I know that I would not want any bondo in my classic, or antique machine for sure.

 

Thank you Millball. I just wish I had skills to take better pictures. Have a good one!

 

Thanks for sharing this, never heard of it. I've been battling a losing fight against rust now for several years in Ohio. I'll definitely be looking into this for my quarter panels and windshield trim.

 

I was doing my homework on it and saw a few old-timers on classic car-restoration sites mention they now use USC All-Metal in place of lead repair. Are these guys getting lazy in old age or have you heard of this stuff and is it even close to as good as a lead repair?

 

USC-All-Metal is just a bondo type epoxy with metallic powder filler.

It is in no way comparable to hot lead body work.

Essentially it is bondo that will attract a magnet. I can see how it might be used to fraudulently represent that a panel has had no repairs.

EDIT::: I see that their ads claim that the filler is aluminum, so a magnet wouldn't be attracted to it, But I recall having seen similar product in the past that was iron filled.

Still nothing like hot lead.

 

Anytime. I think the reason some folks are getting away from it is the hazards of lead. Fitted with the right respirator, its fairly safe. Im actually working on an insert for the windshields to flush mount new glass like on the newer cars so there wont be a need for the rust making trim or rubber gasket. Itll be a while since im working on so many projects at the moment, but hope to have it done soon. It will make the opening smaller and tighter.

Theres alot of different ways to do rust repair. I just stay away from filler until its time for a skim coat before primer.

 

Appreciate the clarification on the so-called "all metal". I figured it sounded too good to be true.

I'll go get a lead repair kit, good respirator and start practicing. My yota could really use some permanent rust repairs before it gets away from me. Nothing else I've tried lasts even a year.

 

Nice work Tony, thanks for the writeup. I may have to give lead a try when I tackle my passenger side quarter panel rust repair.

 

Good to hear Gsp, im sure it will work out for you.

Thanks Ed, i figured youd be stamping out original body panels by now at your fabrication empire. Thanks for checking in.

 

The force is strong with this one (flg8r22).

 

That's for sure. I was lucky enough to find an old guy that still used lead back in 85 when I wrecked my 67 Karmann-Ghia . Another car I should have hung on to...

 

@Robb, dont you wish you just had half of the stuff we had back then? We'd be rich!

 

One of these days I want to give lead a try. What is Tining Butter? Where would you get that at?

 

Hey Terry, the tinning butter or compound sort or etches the bare metal. It like a thin peanut butter consistency. You brush some on the work surface, heat it with a torch, (i like to use Map gas cause it gets hotter) but at 3 times the cost of propane its not always a viable option. When the tinning butter gets heated it turns brown and bubbles up a little. Wipe that off and its ready for lead. Typically the lead comes in 4 ounce rods. I try to buy 5 lbs at a time. TP tools has a nice starter kit with everything you need for under $150. There may be cheaper kits out there but i havent shopped around too much as I have an account with TP. Even the 2 lb starter kit gives you plenty to work with. The repair above used just under a 1/2 ounce of lead and the patch was about 4 " long.