Here's a fun thread to read. Unimogs are a tiny big heavier duty but gives ya some ideas probably. I suspect it's kind of hard to find angle iron in 1/2in + sizes vs flat metal plates, could always beef up the back side if needed.

http://www.foodfight.org.uk/mog/hubs.shtml

 

oh crap that bottle jack idea is clutch!

 

Don't forget pics if/when you try it =)

 

probably burn up some seals and or warp something but I have in a pinch used the "heat and quench" method
heat that sucker up red and then as soon as you pull the torch away have the garden hose ready and quench that thing
usually pops stuff loose that is impossibly stuck

Good Luck!

 

Oh dont worry op will deliver

 

=)

FYI, AL doesn't really glow red, when it gets that hot it just melts with very little warning. Steel rims are a completely different story. Personally I wouldn't throw water on it, that would "harden" steel so much that it makes it very brittle. This isn't much of a write up, but gives a little info about the hardening process. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardened_steel Besides that, cast iron doesn't like water either, it's fairly common for cast to crack from the stresses.

 

Ya, like I said it will probably ruin something but it may work to at least separate them as a possible last effort.

I agree atc ... Just throwing out ideas

 

Yea wasn't trying to debunk your idea or anything, I just wanted to throw out the little warning. I've done it a few times thinking what I know is common knowledge and the person doing the test/idea didn't know the full story on what they were doing. Better to be over-informed instead of under-informed .

 

Definitely agree atc ... I'll have to be more careful with my advice in the future.

Good luck op. I recently had a problem getting drums broke loose and had to improvise a puller like y'all have mentioned.

something will solve your dilemma, let us know what works!

 

Most (atleast OEM) drums have two threaded holes between the wheel studs. Don't remember the bolt size, but it's for pulling the brake drum off when typical means don't work (aka hammer and beat on it where you know it's safe to do so). The bolts go in and hits the axle hub flange, so just need good quality bolts that might get messed up in the process of a stubborn drum. If this was for a 1 ton, I don't know much about them, but I think the single rear tire ones are the same setup.

 

You're right I have those but ripped the threads out ... They were very stubborn, had to resort to other tactics!

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Well i tried that bottle jack method from that unimog blog...

Didnt work. Thats 4 tons of pressure. Im letting it sit over night, But i think im just gonna have to buy some hub assemblies and ditch the ones seized to the rims. Haven't tried the drive side yet, was pretty discouraged when the passenger side didnt budge.

 

While it's under pressure, try hitting it with a hammer. Since it's to the point of being just junk, get the big hammer out and whale it right on the edge of the rim (air down the tires encase it brakes the rim).

Do you need a set of hubs, or are you going with new/local junk yard? I don't think I've taken the front hub apart on this model of truck yet, is the rotor part of the assembly?

 

good idea poorly executed. That bar stock needs to be rotated 90° and welded to a runner/sleeve to prevent that bow.

My Ford Aluminum rims have a cut out to force in a wedge between the two parts try looking for one but I don't expect its there

 

at this point I would consider getting a set of donor spindle/hub assemblys and just trash the old ones, gonna need ball joints, bearings and CV's anyway

 

Atcfixer, tried hammering it under pressure. Both the rims are cracked and chipping away at this point.

I believe the rotor is part of the assembly based on the manual (photo attached), but I assume they separate because they are sold individually? If you had some old hub assemblies I would certainly buy them, this is just my daily driver while I restore my 83, so I dont want or need brand new ones. ˟˟˟˟ maybe I can use the hub assemblies off the 83?

Yeah I am about at that point, I already ordered the ball joints and wheel bearings because they were already shot. I'll add cv joints to that list. I should be able to take these wheels and hubs off from the backend though right?

No wedge on these cheap rims and this was stuff I had lying around my shop. Im going to decide tonight if this is worth putting more time into. I'll be at the weld shop tomorrow and might fabricate something way more suitable if I find the time.

 

I was thinking it might be best to buy new rotors and would save a ton of weight on shipping assuming new isn't too bad of a price. I was thinking just the steering knuckle, but I think you'll need the calipers too unless you want to cut the rim off or something like that (assuming the caliper doesn't get too hot). I suspect a plasma cutter would be the best option.

I have a 89 and 90 frame that both frames are pretty bad, so don't really need the front end parts, I have a spare good 91 frame, all 4x4 of course. Looking online, it looks like each side goes for quite a high price. Not looking to get rich or anything off my old parts so I'll have to think on the price a little. Let me know what all you're going to need since right now it's a complete front end / suspension setup. Hopefully the bolts are not too rusted up, since both the trucks sat a while before I got them.... and now they are sitting again lol.

 

Thanks I sent you a PM!

 

I have never seen hubs and wheels stuck this bad .

 

Yeah neither have most people, made the mistake of posting the bottle jack photo on instagram and now I have every friend around the world tell me I should try everything I've already done. Like opening a "Here's my obvious idea" forum.