Only if the issue is with the coil itself, or in the control side of the ignition, or something common to all cylinders, like the rotor. For instance, a bad plug wire will only affect one cylinder.

 

It'll show you whats going on with the mixture too. The kv spike pattern will go low if it's too rich or high if it's too lean. The video shows the difference in one cylinder when you unplug an injector.

 

Good info, thank you.

 

Yea I isolated the issue by pulling spark plug leads, no change on cylinder 1.
Haven't used a scope, don't have access to one, did use a homemade noid light in parallel with a 2.4 ohm load to replicate the injector load, no change between cylinders with the noid light,
Put injector plug 2 on injector 1. No change (except 2 stopped firing obviously)
Injector 1 and 3 are in parallel, which makes me think any electrical issue before the crimps in the harness would show up on injector 3 as well.
But assumptions seem to bite me in the ass, so I'm ignoring my logic and testing everything anyway.
In regards to the coil, I put the coil, cap & loom from my 87 on his 88. No change.

 

I wonder if he got a bad batch of heads or valves? When did you buy the head?

 

Pull the valve cover off and inspect the cam lobes for cyl #1. It's possible the cams going flat.

 

Pulled the cover off yesterday when I checked the valve lash again, specifically looked at the cam lobes for flat spots. Saw none.
The head was purchased end of December-ish, didn't put it in till January. Has less than 700miles on it.
I rebuilt my entire 22re in my 87 with engbldr parts, runs like a champ. (over sized valves and 268 cam as well}
I'd be very surprised if his head was the issue.

 

Just seems like a strange coincidence. I dropped my block off first of December and picked it up along with the new head, oversized stainless valves and 268 cam, on January 9th.

Let us know what you find out.

 

I'm not trying to come across that his stuff is junk by any means, but I worked in automotive parts for almost ten years and sometimes you get a bad batch of parts from the supplier. For instance, I worked in the tech department at Arb usa and there was a batch of air locker seals that were manufactured undersized. I spent 2 months measuring seals and throwing the bad ones away. Things happens, but it shouldn't be overlooked.

 

Unless he's manufacturing every component from raw materials, there's only so much he can control. Nothing is flawless. Im sure if it comes back to something with the head, he'll stand behind it 100%, and I've never even done business with him.
He's got a big rep in a small market, you don't get that without being solid.

 

Oh I hear yea, definitely not disregarding it as a possibility,
just saying I'd be surprised. If it is a head issue, I'd certainly trust ted to make it right.


Also, pinched the fuel return line this morning, RPMs increased a bit, as to be expected. It's my understanding they're lean w/ factory settings, but no change on number one.

I'll keep you all posted with other tests I do.
Real curious about the running compression.

 

Me too. It's entirely possible a valve is sticking only at idle rpm. Cranking moves slow enough to not bind, pressure from throttle demand forces it closed above it.

If this is caused by an error in the manufacturing process, it could carry over across multiple heads...

 

Also, I inspected that driver side ground today, didn't have a chance to replace it yet, but released the fuse box, looking for where the ground makes it first connection.
There's two leads coming off it, one slightly larger than the other. the smaller goes up to a connector above the fuse panel, and the other disappears into the wrapped loom. How far back do I need to excavate to get to the next connection on that ground lead?
Reviewing the ground schematics, I only see one lead going to to the left kick panel ground point (labeled G).

 

Typically the entire issue is inside that crimp at the grounding point connector. If the wire under the insulation at that connector is clean copper, just cut that connector off, strip both wires and crimp a new connector on, bolt it to ground. Its really that simple.
So simple, it makes people skeptical.

But I'll tell you this, if I get a Toyota truck in for any kind of weird performace issue, that's the first damn thing I'm doing to it.

 

Oh, super easy. Right on.
Did you notice corrosion migrating up the wiring when you did yours?

 

I did not, my wires were nice and clean. Im guessing yours aren't?

 

No, the connection 'looks' fine, no visible corrosion. But I'll replace it anyways. My buddy said the car was running worse after I fiddled with it...
My pessimism tells me its just coincidence.
Replacing it today.

 

A sticking intake valve would be very noticeable, there would be a loud popping noise in the intake. A sticky exhaust valve would quickly turn into a burnt valve. Plus, that would show up on the compression test.

 

CRAAAAP, this reminded my of a symptom I completely forgot to mention, or even think about.. Often times when I burp the throttle, I can hear the AFM buffeting.
Can't believe I forgot that.
Damnit..
I've never witnessed a sticking valve before. It's starting to really sound like that might be it.

 

No, not coincidence, that means it was definitely affecting things. A good clean connection, probably followed by a TPS adjustment should make a noticeable improvement in many ways.