Ran the Error codes and it was the knock sensor again...I replaced it once with one from ebay so I'm going to have to replace it again. For now though, I took it out and gently tapped it with a pair of pliers and put it back in. So far all is well...

 

Lumpy, just because you're getting a KS code doesn't mean you have a problem with the KS. Could be wiring....could be an actual lean condition causing a knock.....which a functioning KS/wire would pick up on and then throw the code. Are you sure your timing is not too advanced or something?

 

The Timing seems alright...When I did the HG and Cam I made sure everything stayed in. When I had it all together and started it for the first time I was 1 tooth off on the distributor. Advanced it 1 tooth and it fired right up. I started with the timing about 3 deg I'm further than that now. I'm not real sure how far I went. I went up till the valves tapped a bit then backed it off and lowered the idle. That's how I did it with other cars. This is my second toy so I'm just getting familiar with these things. My first was a 87 Celica GTS. Got that in 93 and it met an early demise. Anyway, any bit of help would be great!!!

 

I think it's a good idea to use a timing light.....probably most would agree with that......since it's EFI. I've noticed on my 22re even a few degrees advanced can cause pinging. Haven't you a friend you can borrow one from? Maybe a mechanic you know that could check it?

Anyway, timing should be set at 5*btdc (engine warm) with the diagnostic box jumped. If you didn't jump the terminals on the box, your timing will be off.

 

I can get a timing light, I'll mess with it this weekend. I was unaware that you had to jump terminals in order to set the timing. Do you know which ones off hand??? Are they the same 2 that you use to get the codes?

 

Indeed, they are. When you jump those two terminals, it bypasses sensor input (and therefore timing advancement by the ECU) so that you are in "base timing" mode. So, you see, when you don't jump the terminals/bypass timing advance, you are setting the timing too high as a result. Make sense?

 

I finally was able to get the timing right. It did make a bit of difference but I still have a bit of a valve tap. I'm going to wait till I change oil and then see what it does. I may have to adjust the valves again.

 

This thread is great! I am a day away from tearing apart a 22r to do the head gasket.

 

This really helped me out!!! I read it quite a few times. Really saved me some work.

 

I am close to completing the exact same re-build, and in the process i have lost track of where one connector plugs in. It is the grayish colored one that lays over the head cover. Looking at your pictures, it is right by the redish one and the blue one. Can anyone help me figure out where the gray one connects in? Thanks!

 

Can you send a picture of this? How many pins? If its the one I'm thinking of it does not get plugged in. I believe I had one in that area that didn't go anywhere...




If it's the plug sticking up, I'm not sure...I know the one is for the cold start valve.
Hope this helps...

 

Here is the best picture i have at the moment. It is the grayish connector laying over the head cover that does not go to anything. Let me know if you want a better pic.

 

looks like the plug for the AC idle-up solenoid to me

the smaller unused one is for the EGR temp sencor found on Ca emmision equiped 22re's

 

Sweet! Thanks for the help!

 

dont mean to bring up the whole gasket sealer stuff again. but IMO the best gasket sealer for anything is this stuff called Gaskacinch. its not a thick silicone stuff. its more like a thin brush-on stuff. you brush it on the gasket and on the mating surfaces, wait for it to dry, stick the gasket on(it'll stick right to it so you dont have a problem trying to line it up) and bolt the part on. ive never had a problem with it. just a little harder to find the stuff.

 

Which are you talking about the black circled or the red??? If it's the black one, with 2 wires, I agree with SuperBleeder. Don't need it, I don't have AC so I'm not sure.

 

The black circled one is the one i am looking for. The little red circled one wasn't ever plugged in. The previous post by iamsuperbleeder helped a lot too!

Thanks also for the info on gasket sealer! I may check that stuff out.

 

yeah its great stuff. you can use it as a thread sealant also.

 

the red circled one down there is for 1 of 2 of the sencors there at the front of the intake manifold; I can't remember off the top of my head which is which, but one is for the cold-start injector, and one is for the ECU

if one of those is unplugged, you'll know it... if it's the one for the cold-start injector, it'll be a PITA to start when the engine's cold. if it's the one for the ECU, not only do I think it'll throw a CEL, but it won't run very well either, and you'll notice a drop in MPG


wait... unless that's the clutch-pluging for the AC compressor... it's hard to tell in that pic...

hmmm, lemme look at my rebuild pics and see if I can tell...



yeah, 'cause the two sencor plugins are black and green...

looks like it may be that AC plug, that one you boxed in red; on non-AC equiped motors, maybe the wire is bound up, cause it's a pretty long lead:






pay no attention to the plug on top of the valve cover I was reffering to ealier; it's been replaced with one off a Celica, so it's a little different and I had to do some wire splicing

 

The little connector circled in red I am not concerned about. It was unplugged and neatly tied up like that when I started the re-build.

The one that is circled with black I do want to find a home for. I don't have ac, so it could just sit there...