CV Joint Replacement
#2
Check my thread,I need some advice also! Is yours splattering grease?Not good! I have a haynes manual and it says you can but a reconditioned one?saves time but not $$? John
#4
I replaced my 2 front CV shafts, depnding on your year, and if you have 4x4 they simply just bolt on the transfer case and a little patience and they come right out, if you have the haynes manual iot makes it a lot easier.
#5
I've replaced CV Boots twice, but I now think it is frequently better to get a rebuilt half-shaft. If the outer-boot is leaking (most common) you end up replacing both boots (the outer comes off the inside end of the shaft). With the price of both boots you're getting close to the price of a rebuilt half-shaft, ready to go. Plus, replacing the boots is a dirty, messy job (you'll be messy anyway, cleaning up the old grease you've thrown all over the place). There are two kinds of clips that hold the boots on; if you already own one of the tools, your new boots will come with the other kind of clip!
But to replace a CV boot you must know the SECRET: support the wheel on a jackstand so that the suspension is fully retracted (just as it would be sitting on the ground). Once unbolted, the half-shaft can be wiggled out pretty easily. But if you leave the wheel hanging (by putting your jackstand under the frame, for instance), the angles are not right, and it WILL NOT come out. DO NOT pound out the studs, remove the ball joint, take off the shocks -- you don't need to do that if you know the secret.
But to replace a CV boot you must know the SECRET: support the wheel on a jackstand so that the suspension is fully retracted (just as it would be sitting on the ground). Once unbolted, the half-shaft can be wiggled out pretty easily. But if you leave the wheel hanging (by putting your jackstand under the frame, for instance), the angles are not right, and it WILL NOT come out. DO NOT pound out the studs, remove the ball joint, take off the shocks -- you don't need to do that if you know the secret.
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