Im going to chase you down and beat you with a STICK!!! ( )

Take your door panels off and do those connections right - solder them! BTW where did ya tap into to get the remote turn on for the amp? (Im assuming a factory deck - you did solder that connection riiiiiight?


Surrounds? We dont need no stinkin surrounds!! LOL

 

Soldering is over-rated. The cool dudes at BestBuy said crimping is just fine

Anywho, I suck at soldering. Got any suggestions on what type of solder and iron I should get? I really need to get better at it

As far as the remote wire goes, butt-connected that thing to the ignition wire of the factory radio

 

yeah really, I could use some soldering tips. Give us some pointers, I want to do it the right way, just can't.

How is everyone liking their speakers now? Still good?

 

just got my buddy 2 sets for the threa above this. hope they work well

 

Soldering tips

#1: Twist the wires together really well, electrons travel on the OUTSIDE of the wire thus the more contact surfaces touching each other the better. That is why a bunch of really thin wires bunched together makes a better conductor than a few huge strands. More surface for conduction.

#2: Place the tip against the wires until they get hot, then touch the solder against the wires. Make sure the solder soaks into the wiring twist as it melts. A glob on top does not do the job.

#3: Wrap the connection very well with good electrical tape.

Those are all I have.

Menko, I am not sure if the sails came on that year. But you can easily mount the tweeters flush in the door if you look for the space. It can even surface mount.

 

Just an FYI for you the accord ex tweeter pods are in the dash near the windshield. If you would like I can send you pics of where I mounted my tweeters in my accord ex.

 

Yeah I know. I used to own a 97 EX with the dash mounted tweeters. They still suck lolz.

I was thinking about modifying some 99-00 civic EX tweeter pods, or something along those lines. If you got the pics, hook a fellow yotatech.com member up

NisAznMonk@aol.com

 

I just put a set of the Blaupunkt 6-3/4 components up front in my 01 4Runner, and a set of the 6 3/4 two-way (non-component) in the rear. The front installation was quite simple as others have said. You have to thread the screws in at an angle to line up with the factory screw holes, but once you tighten them down it all seems to come together and line up well. I drilled two holes in the plastic just above the speaker large enough for a zip-tie to pass through and this is how I secured the cross-over. After the speakers and cross-over were installed the door panel snapped on like a dream, no clearance issues.

The rears were a different story. I used the template that someone posted:

http://www.sonoransteel.com/96-02_4R...r_Template.pdf

The patter is perfect, but I had clearance issues using 3/4-inch thick wood. Everything went together quite well and my wood adaptors looked great. However, I ran into some issues when I tried to get the door panel back on. Part of the door panel that sticks out a fair amount (towards the front of the door panel pocket) hit the edge of the speaker and I could barely get the snaps at the bottom to pop in. Then they either popped right back out on their own, or if you slammed the door. So I tried again, but this time rolled down the window and posistioned the speaker in there so I could determine the thinnest adaptor I could use. Turns out 3/8" is just about perfect to space these speakers out far enough. But I also ran into some issues when I used the thinner 3/8" adaptor. This time the speaker bucket on the edges started hitting the metal on the door. After playing around with it for a while, trimming the adaptors, I was able to get the speakers to fit, barely.

My recommendations on the rear would be:

1) Use 3/8" partical board for the adaptors. I'm not sure what baltic plywood is, but in my experience any playwood is hard to work with when you are drilling holes and cutting it - tends to fray and shred easily.

2) Go with the next size down, 5 1/4, otherwise you'll have some issues getting them to fit and clear just right.

The sound is significantly better over the factory cones, even when using the factory deck. Much crisper and cleaner, and a slight improvement in bass. I definitely recommend doing the fronts since it is quite simple. If you don't mind spending some time to build the adaptors, and spending a little more time on the installation, then I'd recommend the rears as well. I did the fronts first and noticed a nice improvement. Then I did the rears and it really seemd to tie it together.