Amp overheating
#22
I am with Bumping Yota on this.
Your amp RMS power appears to be too low to power those woofer. You are probably overstressing that amp.
Woofer RMS: 380 Watts at 4 ohms
Amplifer RMS: 200 Watts at 4 ohms
Even if you wired them in parallel to drop them to 2 ohms and put the amp into bridged mode I doubt you would have enough power.
You need an amp with at least 400 watts RMS per channel in my opinion.
Just my two cents.
Your amp RMS power appears to be too low to power those woofer. You are probably overstressing that amp.
Woofer RMS: 380 Watts at 4 ohms
Amplifer RMS: 200 Watts at 4 ohms
Even if you wired them in parallel to drop them to 2 ohms and put the amp into bridged mode I doubt you would have enough power.
You need an amp with at least 400 watts RMS per channel in my opinion.
Just my two cents.
Last edited by DavidA; May 30, 2006 at 08:12 AM.
#23
If you want I can get you links of placed to get 12v fan's that have LED's if your in to the bling thing. However you would almost have to enclose the amp to get a wind tunnel of a sort. However I'm with everyone else.
Last edited by Red3.slow; May 30, 2006 at 09:54 AM.
#24
ok the manual isnt telling me what I need to know...lol How many sets of terminals are on each sub? If there is only one set then you are single voice coil subs. If two sets then they are duals. In either case, how do you have them wired right now?
#28
Well in that case it should be totally ok impeadance wise, but do you have a Digital Multi Meter (DMM)? If so measure the resistance on each terminal to make sure its reading somewhere around 4ohms per channel. If that's the case, then beef up that primary wire!
Oh yeah what about the ground? Is it secured properly and is the paint sanded away from under that ground?
Oh yeah what about the ground? Is it secured properly and is the paint sanded away from under that ground?
#29
I did both and the two terminals' impedance is between 4.0-4.1 ohms so that shouldn't be any kind of problem. Here as well is the pic of the ground for ya.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
BTW sry the pics are so big i tried to reduce them but i get it didnt work :pat:
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG]
[/IMG] BTW sry the pics are so big i tried to reduce them but i get it didnt work :pat:
Last edited by 881stGenRunner; Jun 1, 2006 at 02:29 PM.
#31
The ground looks good, but I am not sure if you can measure coil impedance at the amp terminals like that. I mean you might get a different reading because of amp involvement, maybe. Just for fun I'd measure across + & - With the amp on to see what kind of voltage you are running.
#32
Is the filter on? It looks like it is off. I would turn it on and set it to around 80, turn the bass boost to zero and maybe try adjusting the level. You should check out http://www.bcae1.com/ and look at the sections on the right side. Gain controls
#34
The filter should be on and set to about 80. These are sub woofers (as you know) and are not really intended to reproduce frequencys above 80hz. This should make things a little easier on your amp.
maybe I am having a hard time reading the pictures, are the filter options on/off or lpf/hpf? It should be on or low pass (lpx).
maybe I am having a hard time reading the pictures, are the filter options on/off or lpf/hpf? It should be on or low pass (lpx).
Last edited by mdh; Jun 5, 2006 at 07:43 PM.
#36
Lot's of good, and really bad advice in here...
My first question is how long is that ground wire and is it 8 gauge too?
Then, my recommendation is to mount the amp vertically instead of flat like that. If it's flat, the hot air rises against the inside of the case. If it's vertically, the amp will take advantage of the vents on the sides, and of the natural convection of the air in the cab of the truck.
Btw, a ground wire should be shorter than a foot and be securely attached to a sanded, chassis ground. That mounting point looks really flimsy there. I usually undo a seat bolt and lift up the seat, sand it with some really coarse paper (100-300 grit) until all the paint is gone, then put the properly crimped and soldered ring terminal under the seat and bolt it back down really tight, and spray some clear coat over the top of it.
I'm not positive that's the problem, but having the amp mounted vertically and a better ground are two good places to start.
Also, are you running the 2 4 ohm speakers in stereo from their own channels?
Are the input gains turned all the way up on the amp?
8 gauge power wire is plenty heavy enough for that amp. I would consider adding a cap though to reduce the draw on the wire.
My first question is how long is that ground wire and is it 8 gauge too?
Then, my recommendation is to mount the amp vertically instead of flat like that. If it's flat, the hot air rises against the inside of the case. If it's vertically, the amp will take advantage of the vents on the sides, and of the natural convection of the air in the cab of the truck.
Btw, a ground wire should be shorter than a foot and be securely attached to a sanded, chassis ground. That mounting point looks really flimsy there. I usually undo a seat bolt and lift up the seat, sand it with some really coarse paper (100-300 grit) until all the paint is gone, then put the properly crimped and soldered ring terminal under the seat and bolt it back down really tight, and spray some clear coat over the top of it.
I'm not positive that's the problem, but having the amp mounted vertically and a better ground are two good places to start.
Also, are you running the 2 4 ohm speakers in stereo from their own channels?
Are the input gains turned all the way up on the amp?
8 gauge power wire is plenty heavy enough for that amp. I would consider adding a cap though to reduce the draw on the wire.
#37
Originally Posted by mdh
The ground looks good, but I am not sure if you can measure coil impedance at the amp terminals like that. I mean you might get a different reading because of amp involvement, maybe.
#38
Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
Also, are you running the 2 4 ohm speakers in stereo from their own channels?
Are the input gains turned all the way up on the amp?
8 gauge power wire is plenty heavy enough for that amp. I would consider adding a cap though to reduce the draw on the wire.
Are the input gains turned all the way up on the amp?
8 gauge power wire is plenty heavy enough for that amp. I would consider adding a cap though to reduce the draw on the wire.
#39
My bud has the same amp, i wired it up last night with 8 gauge (4 gauge is waiting, no time to put it in) and it gets HOT thats for sure... im trying to get him to buy one of my HCCA amps and wire his ลลลล down to 1 ohm
#40
Originally Posted by 881stGenRunner
Yes they are in stereo on their own channels and the amp gain is turned about half way. Where would i mount the amp vertically? On the back of the box?
I would think either on the side of the box or on the back of the back seat where it wouldn't be enclosed at all. Back of the box will stifle it and get it hotter...
Does it have good vents on the side?
If so, try to mount the best vents to the top and bottom if you have a choice.





[/IMG]
[/IMG]
