Start of an exo cage for 3rd gen...PICS
#21
Contributing Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,683
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#22
If you want to get into making links, it's not that hard to just redo the whole thing with a bushing on the axle end, and a johnny joint on the frame end. Will eliminate a lot of bind and free up some travel. While you're at it, make them a bit longer to get your wheelbase back after the lift. Rebuild the uppers while you're at it, as you will see they're not very strong.
IMHO, there's HUGE bang-for-the-buck in remaking the links using the factory mounting locations.
My lowers are 2"x0.25" wall, and the uppers are 1.75"x.120" wall
IMHO, there's HUGE bang-for-the-buck in remaking the links using the factory mounting locations.
My lowers are 2"x0.25" wall, and the uppers are 1.75"x.120" wall
and for anyone who wheels their third gen, take the gas tank skid off now and reinforce it with 3/16ths plate........ it will hold up a lot lot lot lot lot longer than the stock skid
Last edited by crolison; 02-23-2010 at 05:23 AM.
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Toytec ones are basically stock arms with some angle welded to them. They work just like stock, but stronger.
If you want to get into making links, it's not that hard to just redo the whole thing with a bushing on the axle end, and a johnny joint on the frame end. Will eliminate a lot of bind and free up some travel. While you're at it, make them a bit longer to get your wheelbase back after the lift. Rebuild the uppers while you're at it, as you will see they're not very strong.
IMHO, there's HUGE bang-for-the-buck in remaking the links using the factory mounting locations.
My lowers are 2"x0.25" wall, and the uppers are 1.75"x.120" wall
If you want to get into making links, it's not that hard to just redo the whole thing with a bushing on the axle end, and a johnny joint on the frame end. Will eliminate a lot of bind and free up some travel. While you're at it, make them a bit longer to get your wheelbase back after the lift. Rebuild the uppers while you're at it, as you will see they're not very strong.
IMHO, there's HUGE bang-for-the-buck in remaking the links using the factory mounting locations.
My lowers are 2"x0.25" wall, and the uppers are 1.75"x.120" wall
Your way sounds like the way to go, I can build all 4 links for the price to only have 2 lowers from toytec. My panhard is a sonoran steel, beefed up link
already, and its adjustable.
#24
Contributing Member
Well, I went whole-hog and redid the mounts, triangulated to get rid of the panhard, everything.
I got the joints from PolyPerformance. You can get similar ones from Ballistic and a number of other places. I did JJ on both ends, looking back I could have done regular bushings on one end and kept everything simpler.
Here's my build thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-153382/
Got any sketches/pix of what your exo is going to look like?
I got the joints from PolyPerformance. You can get similar ones from Ballistic and a number of other places. I did JJ on both ends, looking back I could have done regular bushings on one end and kept everything simpler.
Here's my build thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-153382/
Got any sketches/pix of what your exo is going to look like?
#25
Where did you buy the johnny joints and bushings? Did you just use ones the had an overall length that fit nice in the stock mounting locations? Or did you have to use misalighment spacers?
Your way sounds like the way to go, I can build all 4 links for the price to only have 2 lowers from toytec. My panhard is a sonoran steel, beefed up link
already, and its adjustable.
Your way sounds like the way to go, I can build all 4 links for the price to only have 2 lowers from toytec. My panhard is a sonoran steel, beefed up link
already, and its adjustable.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...p-1-c-726.html
#26
Contributing Member
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...nnyjoints.aspx
Note that they are sized by the mounting width.
Note that they are sized by the mounting width.
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tonight I measured how long all the links where and the locations and bushing sizes and such. Should be pretty easy overall. My upper link bushings litterally fell apart when I took the bolt out. YIKES!
Got some 1 1/4" x.250 wall DOM tubing for free from school. I am going to use that for my upper links. I think I will use 2" DOM for the lower links.
As for the exo cage and the rear tire carrier, all I have it rough sketchs I have made on school notes I should get started on it sunday if I have time. This week is crazy for me with working six days and full schedule at school.
Got some 1 1/4" x.250 wall DOM tubing for free from school. I am going to use that for my upper links. I think I will use 2" DOM for the lower links.
As for the exo cage and the rear tire carrier, all I have it rough sketchs I have made on school notes I should get started on it sunday if I have time. This week is crazy for me with working six days and full schedule at school.
#28
Hahaha, I've told myself that sooo many times, but something always comes up........ especially with this insurance bs, tomorrow my truck is getting fixed or else.....
#29
Contributing Member
Question on lengthening the lower/upper links...
Upon compression, and the flattening of the links, wouldn't you have to worry (or at least plan) for some interference of the rear of the wheel well? I've already had to cut about 2+ inches from the bumper/wheel well...I dont know how much more i can go :/
Upon compression, and the flattening of the links, wouldn't you have to worry (or at least plan) for some interference of the rear of the wheel well? I've already had to cut about 2+ inches from the bumper/wheel well...I dont know how much more i can go :/
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Question on lengthening the lower/upper links...
Upon compression, and the flattening of the links, wouldn't you have to worry (or at least plan) for some interference of the rear of the wheel well? I've already had to cut about 2+ inches from the bumper/wheel well...I dont know how much more i can go :/
Upon compression, and the flattening of the links, wouldn't you have to worry (or at least plan) for some interference of the rear of the wheel well? I've already had to cut about 2+ inches from the bumper/wheel well...I dont know how much more i can go :/
Yeah you are right. I rub in the rear right now. And I cant cut the body anymore because of the rear door. If I move the axle back say inch and a half, I can cut the back of the fender well, and possibly reduce my rubbing on my 35"s. I ll just have to see how much I can cut with out making it look like a hack job Then I have to worry about drive shaft length
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Thornton, Colorado
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#33
Contributing Member
Question on lengthening the lower/upper links...
Upon compression, and the flattening of the links, wouldn't you have to worry (or at least plan) for some interference of the rear of the wheel well? I've already had to cut about 2+ inches from the bumper/wheel well...I dont know how much more i can go :/
Upon compression, and the flattening of the links, wouldn't you have to worry (or at least plan) for some interference of the rear of the wheel well? I've already had to cut about 2+ inches from the bumper/wheel well...I dont know how much more i can go :/
IMHO, a big contributing factor to Molly's roll was the effect on the suspension from the big lift. When the weight came over, it really unloaded, and there's nothing you could do at that point. The truck didn't climb very well either with all the weight over the back unloading the front tires on steep uphills.
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Thornton, Colorado
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On another note I am not sure if I would say everytime you land on it it will dent bad enough to do damage to the tank. I have hit mine a lot and no damage to the tank, so saying everytime could be a little extreme.
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You take posts pretty litterally.... In that case I don't know if I would recommend cuting a tank in half with a torch and banging it out and then welding it back together. I mean you want to make sure the fumes are out and the welds need to be really good. That sound like a lot of work. On the other hand there are other methods I would try first such as using compressed air. I have heard rumors of this working.
On another note I am not sure if I would say everytime you land on it it will dent bad enough to do damage to the tank. I have hit mine a lot and no damage to the tank, so saying everytime could be a little extreme.
On another note I am not sure if I would say everytime you land on it it will dent bad enough to do damage to the tank. I have hit mine a lot and no damage to the tank, so saying everytime could be a little extreme.
#36
Contributing Member
Well I am going to have a guy weld my FJ40 gas tank cause it got leaks! But, I am assuming he'll make sure there aint no more gas fumes in it
#37
Contributing Member
Yeah you are right. I rub in the rear right now. And I cant cut the body anymore because of the rear door. If I move the axle back say inch and a half, I can cut the back of the fender well, and possibly reduce my rubbing on my 35"s. I ll just have to see how much I can cut with out making it look like a hack job Then I have to worry about drive shaft length
Course if I was rubbing on the front, then hell yes Id add some length.... Would be best to figure out how to lengthen the links/mounts but then that gets into moving the gas tank around, and more work.
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay first off going back to the exo cage. I had sometime to think about it more today, and I saw on CUbuff's thread that he talked about keeping less weight behind the rear axle(in his case by chopping his hatch of his runner). So, would I be shooting myself in the foot by building a tire carrier in the back, by doing so I would have a lower COG, but then I would be unweighting my front tires during steep climbs. Is the real solution to build a carrier inside forget the rear seat? Maybe keep only one side of the seat? cubuff and tc what are your .02's?
And tc you said I would not be able to use adj. threaded rod ends in that size DOM. And sure enough the threaded weld in tube adapter goes from .81" to 1.00" tube ID. So really all I can do with that tube is use 2" bushings on both sides? Is there someone who sells the right threaded weld in tube adapter.
And tc you said I would not be able to use adj. threaded rod ends in that size DOM. And sure enough the threaded weld in tube adapter goes from .81" to 1.00" tube ID. So really all I can do with that tube is use 2" bushings on both sides? Is there someone who sells the right threaded weld in tube adapter.