The Fab Shop Tube buggies, armor protection and anything else that requires cutting, welding, or custom fab work

SAS on a 96

Old Nov 21, 2004 | 09:02 PM
  #21  
964RunnerLTD's Avatar
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Im pretty sure I wanted to end the post there, but I guess some people just always have something to say.
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 10:14 PM
  #22  
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From: Wandering around Phoenix
There are some very knowledgable people on this board and you'd be wise to listen to them. You asked a question and it seems you are not listening to what people are trying to tell you, and sometimes you have to read between the lines. Consider everything as constructive criticism and learn from it.

And if you think anybody here is flaming or bickering with you, try posting this on pirate and you'll see what flaming really is. The price range of SAS's is pretty wide. You can be as cheap as you want or as bulletproof as you want. There are lot's of people who have done SAS's for as little as $1000 or as much as $4000 or higher. Like you said, it all depends on what you can get free.

Flyg is including the price of a locker and regear because a truck built similarly to his will outwheel a solid axle truck that's only locked in the rear, most of the time. And he certainly didn't waste his money on any IFS lift.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 07:40 AM
  #23  
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You have a 2" BL to clear a tire that isn't even a true 33"?

I love what was said about buying an FZJ and going from there....that's what I did... tee hee hee.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 06:58 PM
  #24  
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964RunnerLTD, you have no idea on the amount of work needed to do a proper SAS to a 3rd gen. Even if you get it done, it'll never out perform your buddies rig. The only way your gonna keep the cost under 2k, is if you have the fabrication skillz and know what your doing or have some friends that are willing to work for free to help with the project.

I've seen plenty of rigs that have done SAS and most still have issues that are ongoing. Why? because they took the cheap route and now are spending $$$ to fix the problems.
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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 01:30 PM
  #25  
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From: mission b.c.
i have done a couple of them if you are able to do all the fab/welding your self so there is no labour cost i would say you could do the bare minimum of completeing a sas..no gears,lockers,just cheap shocks,steering 550 is pretty cheap for hy-steer canadian also i assume..i dont even sell it for that anymore..but if your new to doing a sas and are already talking that you know it all and dont wanna listen to other peoples comments then why ask???as you said this thread is going in circles and isnt going anywhere i just remeber this question from another board you are on here in canada...cheers
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 12:29 AM
  #26  
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i'm sorry but some ppl on this board can be rude. if he does it he does it, if he doesnt listen he doesnt listen, if he is wrong he's wrong. i realize he asked a question and now he might be stating certain things while others are stating different ones. lets all not get our panties in a wad and remember that it is the holiday season...eventhough we shouldnt just appreciate during this time of yr. let us know how it goes bud.
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 07:06 PM
  #27  
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Wish I could have spent 4 grand on my swap. I spent around 7 on mine and that's with all new parts, custom high angle shafts front/rear, gears 5 rims and tires and dual cases. Not to mention all the other custom crap to go along with it
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 08:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RockComa
Wish I could have spent 4 grand on my swap. I spent around 7 on mine and that's with all new parts, custom high angle shafts front/rear, gears 5 rims and tires and dual cases. Not to mention all the other custom crap to go along with it
What most don't understand is the 4Runner is much heavier than a Taco and the front section of frame is too weak to handle the swap, without adding extensive doubler plates. Even with all the work needed to do a proper SAS, the 3rd gen is not a good base vehicle, they are too top heavy. Look at all the lifted SAS'ed Taco's that have rolled over

It would be cheaper to buy an older donor truck, then build a buggy and have some real fun, without the worries.
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 11:23 PM
  #29  
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But Bruuuuuuce!???

What about bragging rights?? :cry:
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 11:58 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
Look at all the lifted SAS'ed Taco's that have rolled over
Thats what roll and exo cages are for.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 03:54 PM
  #31  
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Look at all the lifted SAS'ed Taco's that have rolled over
Yeah but I still drive mine after. An exo really isn't meant to protect in a roll it's more of a full body slider used to push off of obstacles. You want protection build a cage not an exo. If you worried about your body, leave in the wally world parking lot. As you can tell I have no quarrels with body damage
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 03:03 PM
  #32  
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I've seen my friends rigs go from a pristine truck to getting an EXO cage, then they roll it and the cage crushes in and they still get body damage. Finally cutting off the exo, then installing a full roll cage, just to tear up all the sheet metal and now they have become buggies.


As for bragging rights, I'll let Steve Hunt, have them I still like side hillin and do a lot of it on some of the jobsites, the lower the better. The only way your gonna keep a SAS'ed 3rd gen 4Runner low, is to do a link type set-up, then move the axle foward and/or move the engine back, to clear the front diff, otherwise you'll have no up travel. But to take full advantage of the swap you'll need to run a minimum of a 37" tire, that means doing some sheet metal work for them to clear in the rear. Besides, it's far easier to control your roll center going links over leafs. For me, there was no way I'm gonna tackle that much work on my DD.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 04:00 PM
  #33  
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braggin

No sir, I'm not going to brag after I chickend out on that side hill climb :chicken: in Moab. Believe me, I thought about running that side hill, but I was more interested in Pritchitt Canyon, and what carnage awaited me there.

Personally, I would ask the question, why is sombody doing a SAS, if they havn't really tested the limits of what they want to do? In other words, 964RunnerLTD, how many IFS axles have you broken? Which broken axle was it that prompted you to move to a Solid axle? I think a SAS needs to be considered only after extensive axle breaking wheeling has been done, so one knows absolutely that they want to undertake such an extreme transformation.

Anybody who has spent a fair amount of time under each generation of 4Runner knows that performing a SAS on the 3rd Gen and newer is significantly more difficult than Gen 1 and 2.



Bruce, ya gotta admint, I got some killer air here!!

Clicky on the pic for a bigger picture
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 09:25 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SteveO
Bruce, ya gotta admint, I got some killer air here!!

Yea, that's definately an awesome shot!

Steve, since you have a Limited edition, which has ABS, were you gonna bypass the system? Just to toss out a few options, how about running the FJ80 front axle, since it has the ABS as well. The diff may be on the wrong side, but the housing can be cut and have the ends swapped, then you can run the high pinion e-locker, or go with a Marlin crawl box and run the gear driven t-case. Also get the matching rear axle for the strength, from what I was told they are as strong as a D60. For the way you like to push your rig, it may be a better option.

I'm looking at trying to get a hold of a set for my buggy project, gonna try and keep it as much Toyota as possible. I'm not too sure if I can use them with a F-Toy chassis yet, gotta read the rules.....
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 09:33 AM
  #35  
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ya know, I have been thinking about that. I do enjoy the ABS, and with the winter conditions here in Santa Fe, it might be wise to hang onto it. Indeed, I could go with the Cruiser axle, and then just slam in a Marlin crawler with the front output on the passenger side. An Automatic mated to my original chain x-case (All wheel drive capability), then going to the Marlin gear case with the output on the passenger side, whould be pretty cool. A dual case setup, cruiser axles, ABS, front coil suspension (Fox or King) and a Cruiser rear axle. Pretty much bulletproof.

One of these days... I'm tired of breaking IFS axles.

Heck, I finally got my broken Pritchitt Canyon axle replaced over the Christmas break, finally.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 09:42 AM
  #36  
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Bruce,

What happened to the latest Moab videos????

I would love to see if my rear tires actually did come off the ground when going down into Hells Gate at a high rate of speed.......
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 11:07 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by its2slo
no doubt just start buying parts. the first thing you need to do is buy an axle and if you plan on rebuilding it, putting chevy flat top knuckles on it, and re-gearing it with a locker theres 2 grand. the <a href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=11&k=ball%20joints" onmouseover="window.status='ball joints'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">ball joints</a>, spindle bearings, seals, hubs, hub bearings, seals, wheel studs, knuckle studs, rotors and brakes add up to about $500. then buy a locker, gears and a rebuild kit, and the pinion adapter from jess if you are using toy drive lines theres $600 to $1200 depending on your chices. might as well get your spring perches and brakelines too, @ around $100. the machined chevy knuckle and stock flat top knuckle are atlest $100 plus the cost of a donor axle.

do all that and the fun is just beginning, unless its just for show it takes some money for the "sas mod"
where do you guys get your prices from? do u buy all your stuff from the most expensive store? i can get a d44 locked and geared (might have a few miles on it) for about 1k or less....you guys all try to scare people away...solid axle swaps are not that expensive expeccially if you or someone u know does all the work....
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 11:13 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jared Ajlouny
where do you guys get your prices from? do u buy all your stuff from the most expensive store? i can get a d44 locked and geared (might have a few miles on it) for about 1k or less....you guys all try to scare people away...solid axle swaps are not that expensive expeccially if you or someone u know does all the work....
Where do you get your parts/axles from, drop some names, give us a start here.......
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 12:13 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Jared Ajlouny
where do you guys get your prices from? do u buy all your stuff from the most expensive store? i can get a d44 locked and geared (might have a few miles on it) for about 1k or less....you guys all try to scare people away...solid axle swaps are not that expensive expeccially if you or someone u know does all the work....
How many SAS have you done? or How many personal friends of yours that have had them done? The $$$ add up real fast....

SteveO, as for the videos of Moab, I installed Studio 9 so I could upload them to my HD, but for some reason my computer's firewire connection, couldn't see my camera. I just recently added it to my Windows XP system and I haven't had a chance to test it out. But with all the rain, I have some extra time now and will attempt to get going on it. I'm not sure if my camera angle caught your rig lifting a wheel.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 12:58 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Jared Ajlouny
where do you guys get your prices from? do u buy all your stuff from the most expensive store? i can get a d44 locked and geared (might have a few miles on it) for about 1k or less....you guys all try to scare people away...solid axle swaps are not that expensive expeccially if you or someone u know does all the work....
I'm sorry, but even if the labor is FREE, you will not get something locked, geared, solid axled and reliable, dependable for $1K. I don't think they are trying to scare anyone away, but trying to plant some of you cloud bouncers on the ground of financial reality.

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