Ok I searched, but didnt find whaqt I was looking for, so If it is there please show me.

I am making a new fuel tank to go under the Cargo area,(spare tire location) of my 91 runner. I want to use the same fuel pump, but I have a question about it. The new tank is going to be 33x7, to a 33x8, at 18 inches wide flat on top. Sorry, I am a tin knocker and that is how I would call in that fitting, but anyway. I recently saw for a minute Jeremy's fuel pump and all the tubes that come off it seemed awefully long to go in a 8 inch deep tank. Can I cut them off or how would you Mechanic type guys handle this. I dont know Mechanical stuff, but I can build anything, so dumb it down.
I also rember reading online about a moveing of a fuel tank to the rear and they had a list of the hoses and wires you would need. Now I cant find it. Does anyone know of this, or am I crazy.
Just lookin for a little help is all, any guiding you can give would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Me too, because I'm wanting to know the same info for my future relocation.

Chris

 

I have a 95 4x4 truck that is similiar to your 91 runner.

I ran a hose from the bottom of the "aux tank" into the drain plug of the main tank via a angle fitting. There is a one way valve plus generic fuel filter. This makes the tank a GRAVITY FED system and isn't dependent on an aux fuel pump.

There is a vent feed hose that hooks into the main vent which goes towards the engine. The main tank vent was capped off.

There's an overflow hose from the top of the aux tank to the fill kneck hose of the main tank.

If gravity feed isn't your thing then check out Holly's TBI fuel pump that can mount outside of the tank and on the frame rale. It runs about 15 PSI and can fill the main tank. Holly provides instructions for installation.

 

I am going to get rid of the factory tank all togather. It is a big hang up point under there because it hangs a few inches lower than the frame.
I am looking to put the fuel pump that is in the original tank into the new one I am building in order to get back the ground clearance Toyota robbed of the 2nd gen runner by not thinking about where it should be.

 

I'm going to be doing the same thing on my 3rd gen 4runner. I'm just hoping that I can also reuse my fuel sending unit, but the depth it needs is a lot more than what I'm designing my tank to have. Does anyone know if these stock fuel sending units can be shortened to fit in a smaller depth tank without messing them up?

Chris

 

yes, you can cut down teh pickup tubes for the fuel pump.



i dont know if the newer sending units are the same, but if they are, all you really need to do is cut down the long arm and reattach the float so that it swings in a shorter radius, thus keeping its accuracy for the shallower tank.

 

See that is why I love this place, I would have been happy with a "yeah stupid of couse ya can its just a tube" But no I get scematics of how to do the float.
Thanks Peter, much appreciated

 

The tricky part will be the low fuel light sender, have to be careful not to cut that little wire. Here's some pics of an '86 sending unit.

 

So basically I'll cut the metal, weld it back together at the shorter length for both the float and the low level indicator at the depth of the new tank, right?

Chris

 

Just make sure that the swing arm is hanging all the was down to make the Empty contact signal when you put it in the empty tank, and it should be fine. If you leave it long it will be sitting on the bottom of the tank, reading something else.

 

So basically know the the depth of the tank, then measure the same distance minus a 1/4 to 1/2" to leave some room between the float and the bottom of the tank, right? What about the other sensor? Do I just want to make the relation of it directly proportional to the original length of the float keeping everything the same proportions as stock, but shorter?

Chris

 

i shoulda taken a picture of mine while i had it out of the tank. Like you guys have said i dont think shortening the radius arm will hurt the performance of the fuel gauge, as long as the radius is shorter than the depth of the new tank, knowing when its empty is sortuv important

chris i wanna see this new tank when its done, thats a major ground clearance gain. with my drivetrain lift my tcase skid is nearly flat on the frame bottom

 

Oh you know ya will, Got one mad of sheet metal to make sure the design will fit. Probly start on that hard after Spring vaction.

 

for the low level indicator, its prob easier to just bend the rod in a 'Z' fashoin to make it shallower rather than cut and weld

 

Yeah, that would work too! I'm talking with various tank builders right today and tomorrow, and we'll see what they come up with?

Chris

 

personally, i dont see why you are relocating the tank to begin with. i would just lengthen 3 of the 4 links,(minus the upper by the tank) since you already have the panhard, get a longer one or build a drop frame mount or a raised axle mount.

oh, btw: use either heims or jonny joints at the axle end and bushings at the frame end of the links.

 

How would that work out? Not only does my tank drag all the time, I'm looking forward to getting rid of the low height of the frame mounts too for added clearance. I've already got the panhard drop bracket installed, so I'm a little unclear what benefit lengthening all but the upper one on the driver's side would do to benefit me. Could you explain further?

Chris

 

like the pic above, you only have 3 links and the panhard, getting rid of the driver side upper completely. lengthening the links will give you more flex and re-center your rear axle with lift springs. IMO, the three links should be as long as the rear d-shaft.

 

I can't say I've ever seen a design like that, but I would love to see it flexing on both sides to both extremes to see what happens.

I'm doing this mod for the following reasons:

1) Increase ground clearance
2) Free up lots of room for my future custom rear suspension
3) Increase fuel capacity a tad

I don't know about everyone else that wheels 3rd gen 4runners, but all I know is my tank is so dented up now that just the added clearance is going to make a huge difference, especially after I get rid of the low hanging frame mount for the lower links by rasing them above the frame rails.

The only thing I'm worried about is the increased exposure to the driveshaft, but I've got some ideas for it too!

Chris

 

I want to go this route:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D290220

It already has fittings and sump set up and ready to go. The bad thing is not having a channel to go around the rear crossmember. Some people cut out the crossmember and relocate it closer to the rear of the frame.
Since you are building your own tank, cutting a channel into the tank you make should be pretty easy.
I like this one because I have no skills and I feel certain that all the welds are up to being pressurized. I figure if I go this route, I'll take it to a local Aluminum welding shop and have an inlet welded into it instead of trying to figure out how to make an access to the gas cap. Cutting the hole in the rear to get the pump in the sump should be pretty straightforward.
I can dream can't I?