I'm going to pick Cliff's brain to see what a home fabber could do to prevent this from happening to anyone else. I did get the advice of finding a jig to put the housing in to keep it from warping, but that was only one person's view amongst hundreds that replied. I didn't know what a jig even looked like, and didn't do any research to find out (20/20 hindsight). A gentleman on Pirate4x4.com's forum made mention of putting a bottle jack under the diff with chains anchoring the outter ends of the tubes downward to put a counter bend on the axle during welding. I thought maybe laying equal bead opposite the axle as where the truss is being welded to whether that be top bottom might help. That way there is equal pull top to bottom. then I thought it might warp front to back... I dunno, but I'll post any helpful hints he gives me. I'm just bummed that with the techniques I described I was going to employ, I wasn't cautioned more vehemently about warpage. In fact a few of my "trusted welder" friends didn't think it would warp at all. Ah well, my $500 education benefits everyone on this forum!!!

 

Gravel Maker, do you have any recommendations on how to prevent axle tube warpage when welding a truss onto one side of the the axle? At this point all I can advise to anyone interested in welding on your own truss, is to make sure you have straightening $$$ in your budget to the tune of $100-250/axle.

 

Here's da frunt truss.
Templates:


Long side:


Knuckle Gussett:


Full view:

 

Wow, talk about rear axle overkill. I say we shoot it with a mortar and see which one wins, my money is on the axle!

 

Desert whoops = mortar... I'm done messin with mediocrity... Heavy duty is here to stay!!!!!

 

Happy Birthday!
I'm curious in knowing what you learn about preventing warping. Since many others have welded a truss on a front Toyota axle and seem to be just fine...

 

Thank you very much!!! It was a happy one indeed. I'll post when I know about preventative warp welding. I was curious about the Toyota truss as well. I've seen a buncho people use them, but am unsure how many have warped their axle and didn't know about it, or if they're even warped at all. From what I've been told, they would all be warped with the welding going on the top of the tube only, like I did. I could have used my axles warped, but I've been told they would have loosened my axle bolts from the hubs from the spinning off axis, and eaten all of my bearings and seals in short fahsion. I'm glad I did what I did, I just wish I would have made the trusses and had a shop with a jig weld them in. Probably would've been cheeper.

 

Update:
Cliff said that my welds leaked hot dip fluid indicating, even though I preheated before welding, my 110v Weldmark 135+ just didn't have enough ass to start hot enough didn't penetrate well until further down the weld. He drilled an 1/8th" hole in the truss to help drain fluid that may collect in it during water crossings. My whole reasoning for solid welding it just went out the window. I was trying to avoid rusting out the inside of the truss. Ah, well. Live and learn!!!!

He also told me the axle was warped before I pulled it outta the junk yard, though my welding on the top didn't help the situation. Spun races in the diff's journal showed signs of massive wear. He was able to straighten the axles and clean up the wear, so I'm good to go, $580 later. The rear d60 was bout 1/2" outta whack. I'll pick them up tomorrow and ask him how I can advise my fellow homefabbers on welding trusses without warping the axle and post that advise here.

I talked with a friend of mine that welded a Toyota truss to the front of his FJ-40 and had to grind out some of the Birf to get the axles in... WARPAGE!!!

 

Update: 1/12/08 (yes it's taken me this long) I finally took some time to try and get the rig running on the road again and did some work this week. I picked up the axles a while ago, and the races had spun at some point in the axle's life, and the jounals had to be machined, so I had Lincoln clean that up when they straightened the axle. $600 later, I have straight axles that are ready for life under my 4Runner (Sheeeeeesh). I took them to FAO in Vacaville (Thanks Neil and Clint) to have the ring and pinion set up put back together in the diffs and checked for proper backlash and preload. With the machining Lincoln did, I had to have the carrier set up again in the 60. I now have the axles ready for paint and install.

I asked Cliff what a home fabber can do to prevent warpage, and he said that "it's gonna warp no matter what you do". In a jig, it still warps, it just binds up around whatever you are using to jig it with (gettin' jiggey whit it... sorry cranial flatulation). Then you have to figure out how to warp it back to get the jig out... Weld it, then get it straightened... $100 USUALLY. Now I don't know if this is just him trying to keep business, or he's speaking truth... but it makes sense.


Update 1/14/08 I went to put in the races in my D60 and 44 hubs Saturday, and the D60 went together flawlessly. The 44, on the other hand, had an issue with the larger bearing's race. I have JML104-911 races that are a perfect fit in the D60, but don't fit in the D44. When I got home I checked all of the bearings and cross referenced them with the ones I ordered. All of the bearings are the same for the D60 and the larger of the D44. The races are all the same for the D60, but the D44 has a step in the hub that stopped the JML104-911 from going in to the race seat. I compared the race number with the one that came out, and found they were one # off. The removed race JML104-910. I calipered the O.D. of the 2 races and found they had a .025 difference. That would stop it from going past the step. I picked up the 910's from Autozone yesterday, and installed them in to the hub. Now paint and install, and brake lines!!!!

Summary:
'76 Ford D60 rear hub races (all Timken): JML104-911 Bearings: Set38 LM104-949

'76 Chevy/ '81 waggy D44 front large hub race (all Timken): JML104-910 inner Bearings: Set38 LM104-949
'76 Chevy/ '81 waggy D44 front Small hub race (all Timken): LM501-310 outter Bearings: Set45 LM501-349

Inner hub D44:


Inner hub closeup showing step (clean spot is where the race should go):


Inner hub race properly installed w/ race JLM104-910 (911 would only go in to the 1st step):

 

Just read through your whole post...nice work! I was thinking about those front Yota trusses. I think most guys weld them on the '83 and newer axles which already have a lower truss from the factory. I wonder if that doesn't have a lot to do with why they aren't prone to bending??? Or else maybe you're right that people are bending their Yota fronts and just don't realize it.

Did any of the guys you talked with give you the impression that you could have prevented this if you had trussed the bottom of you axle like you had planned at one point (besides the fact that your axle was already bent from the PNP)?

Again, very nice work! I sure wish my welds looked that good and I had a group of pro-welder friends. Keep up the nice work.

 

Oh, one more question...where did you pick up your axle shafts? I had no idea that anyone made cut to length axles, especially for that kinda price.

 

i had read this thread back in the day, but reading it again i'll say nice work on the axles and sorry they had to warp. thems are beeeeeefy!!

 

They're Yukon shafts, so I'd imagine any shop should be able to get them for you. I got mine from the local shop in Vacaville, CA. called FAO (Family Adventure Outfitters). Thanks for the weldin' props. Some didn't turn out as pretty as I'd like, but all of mine have held up to the abuse I've dished out.

 

Why dont u try making a jig that will hold ur axel straight. I am sure if ur worried about heat bending the axel there is alot of fab shops around u that will weld it up and garrenty no axel warp. Excellent thread keep up the good work.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, and the props, Canuck. I did ask the gentleman that straightened my axle (Cliff) what I could do to avoid warpage, and he said "nothing... weld it, then bring it to me to get straightened". He stated that if you built a jig, say a piece of rod through the housing, that it would bind on that rod when it warped (It WILL warp. For every inch of weld, you get X inches of warp... sorry, I can't remember the exact figure). To get the rod back out when done welding, you'd have to warp it back to get it to let go of the rod. I suppose it would be a good gauge as to how much warpage occurred, but I would probably have to chain up the tubes on some anchor system to the floor with a bottle jack in the middle (suggested on the Pirate's board) to get it to relax to let go of the rod... and with my luck I'd go too far and crack the housing, or go too far the other way. Maybe a nice hot bead on the opposite side of the truss to get it to pull the warp back. But would that create warpage front to back since the top and bottom are shortening, but the front and back remain longer (Here's me thinking out loud)??? I don't know if he (Cliff) is just trying to keep business coming back, or what. A race friend of mine says a 1/2" warp (that's how much mine was out) shouldn't hurt anything. He's done several trusses on his race trucks with no problems.

 

about how much did it cost to do the SAS in the front? and the rear w the 60?

 

i actually want to do a leaf conversion in the rear if you have any advice it would be greatly apprecitated. i like how you've built your 97

 

Add on:
-$480 for the straightening and the carrier bearing journal machining I needed to have done
-$130 to have carrier set up redone due to the journal machining

Revised total for rear D60 = $2678

I still need to account for my custom park brake cables I need to have made. I'll add that in when I do it. I'm looking painfully close to the cost of that diamond axle... ah well. If you go this route, as soon as you get home with your axles, pull them apart and inspect the bearing journals looking for any signs (scoring of the metal around the races) of abnormal wear. If you find some, you may be wise to return it and find another axle, and repeat above process.


The following is from another SAS (not mine) but it should give you an idea of what to expect. This list was compiled before there were any kits available, so it may be a bit cheaper for you.
ITEM FROM COST NOTES
4" Grinder Home Depot $57.50 Makita
Wire Brush for Grinder Home Depot $14.98 Makita
BFH Home Depot $12.96 "Big F'n Hammer"
Jack Stands Checker $22.99 4 Ton
Snap Ring Plier Checker $4.99 External
Snap Ring Plier Checker $4.99 Internal
Dana 44 Front Axle Assm. AMC 4x4 $300.00 85 Grand Wagoneer
Spicer U-Joints X2 4 Wheelers $55.96 Spicer 5-760X
IFS Steering Box RiteWay Auto $200.00 1990 4 Runner(box,pitman,shaft)
4.88 R+P Dana 44 Reider Racing $149.95 44D/488
Dana 44 Master Overhaul Reider Racing $91.50 44D/MOKIT
Dana 44 Case (3.92 + UP) Reider Racing $49.95 44D/CH
Dana 44 Lockright 30 Spline Reider Racing $247.95 44D/LKR
Rancho 44044 Springs SW 4 Wheel $272.30
Warn Premium Hubs 4 Wheelers $90.78 P/N War20990
Warrior Spring Perches 4 Wheelers $38.98 WRR 401
Wheel Studs Checker $23.88 Dorman P/N 6102641
Wheel Bearings/Seal Auto Zone $57.64 Inner/Outer
Brake Rotors X 2 Checker $68.98 Raymold P/N 6369029
Spindle Nut Wrench Checker $19.99 4 Lug 2-1/4"
Rancho RS 9012 Shocks SW 4 Wheel $195.00 Buy 3 get 4th Free ($65.00ea)
Ford Shock Tower X 2 Ford Dealer $25.43 P/N FOE5TZ-18183-A
T-100 Oil Pan Camelback Toy $129.70 P/N 12101-65030
Oil-Strainer Camelback Toy $52.49 P/N 151104-62060
Gasket P/U Tube Camelback Toy $2.24 P/N 151147-62020
Dipstick Camelback Toy $13.64 P/N 15301-62060
Dipstick Tube Camelback Toy $19.38 P/N 11452-62060
Frame Bushings 4 Wheelers $30.00 KG02340
Inner Axle Seals OffRoad Unl. $31.61 NAT 2300
Square Stock Davis Salvage $6.49 2"X2"X12" For Shock Mounts
SS Brake Lines Ultimate Off Road $65.00 Pro Comp 4" Lift
Steering Extension Ultimate Off Road $70.00 TM Extension
BFG MUD KM 35X12.5X15 Desert Rat $721.68 Last 4 on shelf
PM1001K HI-STEER ARMS Parts Mike $259.00
APM R/L KNUCKLES Parts Mike $395.00
DAN706116X Ball Joints Parts Mike $79.00 4 Ball Joints(2 upper/2lower)
BRC 1001 Tie Rod/Drag Link Parts Mike $300.00 Inc. 4 TRES
P4120074 Spring Perches Parts Mike $- 2.5" No Charge
Pitman Arm Parts Mike $- No Charge re-work my toy pitman
Daystar Shackles 4 Wheelers $92.40 Day KT61010BK
Steel (Fabrication) Davis Salvage $49.73 Hangers,PS,shackles,rear shock
Cut Off Wheels Home Depot $23.22 14"cut-off, 4"grinding,4.5"grinding
Pick up tube union Camelback Toy $4.50 P/N 90405-10033
Anti freeze Camelback Toy $11.62 Factory Red
FIPG Gasket Sealant Camelback Toy $16.20 00295-00102
U-Bolts OffRoad Unl. $68.99 1/2"X22 Grade5
Reman Calipers Checker $24.00 184208/184209
Disk Brake Pads Checker $40.00 SSRD52
Brake Cleaner Checker $2.29
Brake Fluid Checker $2.19
Alcan 5" Lift Springs Alcan $450.00 6 week Delivery $50 shipping inc.
Spindle Kit 4 Wheelers $25.96 706527X
Steering Stabilizer 4 Wheelers $40.98 Ran 5403
Stabilizer Brackets 4 Wheelers $22.98 Ran 5509
Gear Oil Checker $9.70 80-90W 3 QTS
Grease Checker $2.99 Wheel Bearing Grease
Oil + Filter Checker $17.00 Oil Change
Grease Gun Checker $19.54
Fluids Checker $6.94 Steering,Brake,towels
Grade 8 Hardware Ace $88.53
Wire Brush for Grinder Home Depot $3.94
Spare Tire + Wheel Discount Tire $77.00
Front End Alignment Network Alignment $29.00
Rear Gears Reider Racing $235.15 4.88's + Mini Install kit
Front Drive Shaft Hi-Angle Drive Line $520.00 Cv/long spline w/boot/toy flange
Gear Oil Auto Zone $14.24 80-90W 3 QTS Rear
Speedo Re-Calibration Unit Dakota Digital $80.00 SGI-5

$6,161.02

 

Oh yeah, and thank you for the props... I just can't wait to WHEEL IT!!!!!

 

You want some inspiration, check out this '97 in Tennessee... Top notch!!!!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=557102

Look thru it all for some serious fabrication candy!!!!