I goofed on the perch placement in the rear so I need to remove them and clock the rear diff up more for my rear CV driveshaft. I place the rear diff as if I had regular 2 u-joint shaft... even angle between the t-case flange and the pinion flange... Tomorrow nite is the cuttin n reweld time. everything else is finish welded. Now I have to finish up a bunch of little stuff, build shock hoops, fill with fluids, and I'm to the testing/bug werkin' out stage. It's a little ass high, but I figure it'll settle to level when I have all of my wheelin stuff in the back, and my swing out tire carrier built.

BTW my rear shaft wound up being 42"... I can't remember what it was stock, but I figure it's about 8" shorter than stock due to the Marlin install.

 

I'm out of town for the next 2 weeks, but I figure 2 more hard core dayz of wrenchin grinding, and filling with fluids, I'll be mobile.

 

hurry up I am waiting for you to get your rig going again hehe I guess the trip 12 - 14th is just the trail run, but thats the one i am going on.

 

oh I also installed my ARB Snorkel, works great , i love it

 

Show me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will be ready by the 1st week of July. I have to test it out a bit before I go toe to toe with the Rubicon.

 

Well if you take a trip to the MTNS< I will come test it with ya

 

http://www.toy4runner.com/snorkel.html I have all of the install docs here

 

Hey check out my SIG hehe ..... Ok off to Krispy Creams

 

I've got a question in regards to travel measurements, because after looking at the pictures on your site, you say you have 11.25 inches of travel. How is that measured, because why would I even bother doing a SAS if all I'm going to get is that kind of travel. Heck, the long travel IFS kits get more than that. I guess I'm confused at why this solid axle stuff is touted to be so great, when I can get as much or more travel out of a long travel bolt on IFS kit? CAn anyone clear this up for me?

Chris

 

I mean, check out this kit that offers 18" of travel for IFS:

http://www.esbfabrications.com/tacokit.htm

Why not just get this kit and not have to worry about all the custom fabrication skills needed to do a SAS, plus have a better highway ride too?

Chris

 

I'm wondering the same thing too.

 

I would say I get about 25" of travel up front. Keep in mind a SA is also stronger and easier to work on and the parts are less expensive and easier to get ahold of...

 

25" is more like it, but if I did it I'd want as much travel as I could get, and 25"+ would be what I was looking for at least. What makes the biggest difference is allowing for this increase in travel?

Chris

 

I have no idea what your question is asking.

You also have to remember that while some IFS kits might say they can give you 18" of travel, think how strong the CV joints are gonna be at that angle. A solid axle is just as strong completely flexed out as it is when it is level.

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but this is what I gather.

Crawl = SAS

Haul Ass = Long travel IFS

I guess it depends on what you like to do?????

 

I would say that is pretty much the case...

 

Chris, remember that there is a difference between useable travel versus total travel. Sure, someone could get huge travel #'s with the shocks disconnected, and cycling through stuffed and fully extended to get great total travel numbers. However, this travel may never be fully realized on the trail, especially on IFS (remember what that "I" stands for). It seems like all the good front flex pictures on our 4runners are typically with the vehicle pointing downhill with one front tire up on a rock so that a whole lot more of the weight of the vehicle is helping to compress that one side. I think the solid axle acts more like lever on a fulcrum, stuffing one side helps to extend the other. I could just be talking out my a**, but it sort of makes sense to me.

 

Nope, you are right there...

 

Well, I don't know what you're talking about here, but I know I can get get full flex in the front end even when heading uphill. For example:


In my mind travel is travel, and the only real reason people aren't experiencing their front end fully flexing out during most off-roading is simply because they either have too stiff of springs or their adjustable coil-overs are turned up too much, causing too much preload, making the front end much stiffer than the rear of their vehicles. This results in the rear tires lifting off the ground before the front end even gets a chance to fully flex out.









See, the limiting factor in this picture from me making it to the top of this ramp is that either the front isn't flexing enough, or the rear isn't flexing enough. For example, when I'm backing up the ramp, what's pulling me down? It's my driver's side rear tire that's fully drooped out. Now, what if my driver's side rear wasn't maxed out? Would the front end be lifted off the ground or would I be able to walk further up the ramp, because the pressure caused by the rear axle droop wouldn't yet be pulling down on my frame?

In addition, while driving forwards up the ramp, I'm fully compressed on these pictures, yet the weight of my vehicle is shifted towards the rear of my vehicle. Why does this work contrary to want a lot of folks believe? Because I don't have super stiff front springs that are holding up heavy bumpers, and possibly lifting my truck too high. I have the stock springs, cornfed 1.5" spacer, and 1/2" top out extender. It's still stiffer than the rear, which I don't like, but it's not much difference. See, while driving up the ramp forwards, if the front passenger side wheel had more droop, I'd be able to go further up the ramp, just like in the rearward example.

As far as usable and non-usable travel, I don't think there's any such thing, but that's just my opinion of course.

Chris

 

This is on almost level ground, and my suspension is fully articulated out.....


Now all I need to do is make the rear flex just as well.....