SteveO

I finally got around to posting some info in this thread about the 4Runner. Like so many here, I started off with a stock '99 3rd Gen which had an E-Locker from the factory and P265 tires. Of course, I couldn't leave well enough alone, and this 4Runner has progressed to something pretty awesome. My original goal was to build a 4Runner that was an expedition rig, redundant in all critical areas. If I broke an axle, I would still get home due to the rear and front axles being Full Floaters; Dual batteries, Chromoly axle shafts, etc?€?.Of course, should I need to be Rock Crawling while on my expedition, I will need the height, so its high. As for the amount of money put into this thing...... I don't even want to think about that; too much according to my wife.

So, here is a list of Mods that have gone into the Rig.


Cabin:



Drive train Stuff:



Front Suspension & Axle:



Steering:



Rear Suspension and Axle:



Outside body stuff:


So what is the result of this grocery list of items, you ask? Well....it does really well off-road.

Actually, it does incredibly well off-road. During my last visit to Moab, my wife and I had an excellent time in the sand stone. We ran Pritchett Canyon and did the famous Rocker Knocker. What was really amazing was that we made it look easy. Granted, the rig was leaning quite a bit...it still kept its balance and literally walked the obstacle. I was quite impressed with how it handled the lean.

See the video clip:






Recently I ran Tank Trap during the YotaTech Tour 2006. Now that I have some decent height, I was able to get upon some obstacles, but backed down for fear of rolling it off into the drink of the Trap filled with really nasty smelling water. I suppose I could have made it, but my fear was telling me to try it another day. So, I passed it up and will take it on some other time. My point is, I am finding that this 4Runner is capable of more obstacles than I can currently handle. While the obstacles I do try, I find that they are rarely even obstacles any more.


There is such a world of difference between the IFS and the beef of a solid axle. When I was still IFS, I really was not heavy on the throttle when climbing obstacles, it was just too hard for the half shafts to pull the weight of this rig, so they broke in two. The last time I was on the scales, I weighed in at 5000lbs. This was with a ? tank of gas, one person, and a few items in the back. It did not even include the regular trail gear I take with me when on the trail. Basically, it is a heavy PIG. However, despite this weight, I am still able to maintain 20MPG when driving conservatively. During my last trip to Moab, we kept the speed at about 60MPH and I was able to pull in 20MPG. This was with a loaded 4Runner: 3 dogs, 2 people, camping gear up on the roof-rack and in the back. I estimate we were weighing in around 5900lbs, quite a bit; I am really happy I have the Full Floater in the back.



Some folks have said they thought this was the most capable 3rd generation 4Runner yet. I am humbled by such comments and I am grateful to have such a cool rig. One thing I am trying to do is to take care of it. I do not particularly enjoy flogging it because I think you can have more fun getting more places with finesse. That is not to say I do not get on the skinny pedal if the circumstances are right, but its pretty rare. I suppose this 3rd Gen 4Runner could be one of the most capable, but I know so much has to do with the driver and their skills. I have been wheeling since before I was legal to drive, and I thoroughly enjoy this sport. I really see it as man and machine working together to overcome the elements by testing their ability to maneuver a machine across some very difficult obstacles without breaking the machine or the man.

SteveO

OK, guys and gals.

I finally finished revamping my website.
I have more pics on the SAS stuff, more pics for the rear disc brakes, more excursions pics, more pics, more pics, and more pics.

Check it out and let me know what you all think.

http://www.hunt4steve.com


edit: PLEASE ABIDE BY THE RULES AND DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD

SteveO

Recently built some extended steps for the 4Runner.









PLEASE ABIDE BY THE RULES AND DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD

SteveO

Well, I finally got it done. I have fixed the Speedometer problem, and the 4wd EDU problem

Speedometer issue, taken from my website:

Well, it's been a long time coming, but I finally got my speedometer working correctly. After many trails, and mis-information from other sites, its finally working. Let me first say that not all '99 4Runners are the same, and there are many differences between models. The following information pertains to the '99 4Runner Limited, which is particulary difficult to get working due to the multimatic transfer case and ABS speed sensors. So, don't think this info is going to solve your '99 SR5 4Runner woes, I would look at it as more of a guideline, then the actual solution. That said, lets get into it.

Some time ago, I had purchased the SuperLift TruSpeed. I must confess, this was the biggest waist of money I have ever spent. The directions were incorrect and the unit never worked as claimed by the manufacturer. In fact, upon calling the manufacturer about this, their response was less than helpful, actually it was darn right lame. Now, this doesn't mean it won't work for you, I'm just relaying my experience with this waste of a product.



So, in the meantime, I used my GPS as my speedometer. With 3 trips to Moab, 1 trip to Arizona and a few to Farmington, I figure I'm at most 3500 miles off of what my current odometer states.

Ok, on to the real issue. The '99 4Runner Limited uses the ABS sensors at each wheel as speed sensors. The method of the madness is;

The ABS sensors feed the ABS computer - The ABS computer then sends a single speed signel to the Speedometer in the Combination Meter - from there it goes to the ECU. Yes, its a long route, but apparently it works.

Lets start off by taking a look at this picture of the ABS computer and the speed sensors that are attached to the computer. Click on the picture below to open it in a different window.



When looking at this picture, notice the 4 speed sensors, one for each wheel. They are essentially Hall-effect sensors that generate a voltage signal when a piece of steel is move across the face of the sensor. So, this is the root of the issue. When Folks perform a SAS (SAC) the front sensors are removed. This action alone will not stop the speedometer from working, but will bring the ABS light on. In cases such as mine, when folks perform a Full Floater setup for the rear axle, again, the sensors are removed. Thus, without speed sensors, you have no speedometer.

There are some out there who are trying to sell VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) units that will attach to a mechanical speed sensor and create a voltage signal. Let me tell you first hand, be careful of what is told to you. Do you own research. I was told by a person of a reputable company some bad information that cost me fifty dollars. After doing the research myself, I figured it out and obtained the correct parts. These gear driven speed sensors do not span a wide range of transfer cases as was stated to me. I would say the company makes some inotative off-road products, but doesn't know too much about speed sensors, as they would imply. Just be careful.

OK, back to the picture. Here you see the speed sensors and you can also see the wire that goes to the ABS light. So, instead of pulling the instrument panel to get to the ABS bulb, just clip the Black wire with Light Blue stripe. This wire comes out of Port 25B on the ABS computer.


This picture is the previous page to the above picture. Notice that if you clip the Black wire with the Light Blue strip, it goes the the ABS light in the combination meter. it also goes to the ABS relay, if you have one. In my case I didn't have a relay, so no worries there.

Also note in this picture that connector 14 on the ABS ECU connects to the Speedometer in the Combination Meter. This Gray wire with Light Blue strip goes directly to the speedometer. What does this mean? Again, you don't have to pull your instrument cluster apart to get to this wire. After hooking up my Tacoma speedometer, I ran the signal wire up through the transfer case boot, underneath the carpet directly to the ABS ECU. I clipped the wire coming out of the ABS ECU and patched my speed signal wire directly into the wire leading to the Speedometer in the combination meter.


Here is a picture of the Combination meter, (pin 1D) receives the speed sensor signal from the ABS ECU, or the VSS, depending on your type of rig. Note the GR-L wire has a note indicating number 1 next to it. This means "5VZ-FE". Also note that the same pin, 1D has an alternate number, 2, going to the VSS. This number two means 3RZ-FE. As well, the 9D pin has the Pink wire going to the VSS for the 3RZ-FE engine style rigs. I assume that when the Combination meter gets power, it powers the VSS, and receives a speed signal back from it via pin 1D. In the case of 4Runners that had ABS as speed sensors, the A17 ABS ECU would apply. Tap into this line to send the signal to the Combination Meter.

Pretty simple right, well....not so fast. One thing you really need to do is get enough voltage to the speed sensor to send a strong signal to the speedometer. My first attempt at this was to hook the hot wire of the speed sensor to a fuse. Not enough voltage. So, you need a good voltage source and a good ground. As noted below, I used the cigerette lighter relay to power my VSS.


I was able to find this picture on the internet and resize it to show what the '98 Tacoma VSS looks like. The VSS I pulled came from a '98 Tacoma with a V6, automatic transmission and chain drive transfer case. I picked up the whole thing for seventy-five dollars, which is a pretty good deal compared to the dealerships asking price of $225. Be sure you get the plug when you get the VSS. You're gonna need the plug with the wires. You may also consider testing the unit before you leave the junk yard. Take a coulpe of alligator clips and a voltage meter. Follow the wire settings below, turn the gear by hand and see if you get a voltage drop from 12v to 0 volts, and it repeats with more turns.

This unit has 3 wires:

Pink, Light Blue and Green with Red stripe.

Pink goes to power, a good 12 volt source. I have heard of people wiring these directly to a hot power source, but I felt this not a good idea. Who knows what could happen if the wires get too hot. What I really needed was a relay to turn the power on and off with the ignition. I hooked the hot wire directly to the Cigerette lighter relay in the engine bay. When the 4Runner is on, and running, it has power. When its off, it no longer has power. Now for those how have shorted out the relay to always have power, this isn't gonna work for ya. But, in my humble opinion, a relay is the best way to power this unit.

The Light Blue wire goes to a good ground. I was able to route this wire up through the transfer case boot to a ground source in the center counsol. Works like a charm.

The Green with Red stripe wire is your signal wire. This wire will connect directly to the Gray wire with Light Blue stripe.

Now to test it. put the rear of the 4Runner on jack stands, put it in gear and see if the speedometer moves. If so, your in business. Of course, with tire changes, it probably will not read correctly.

Dakota Digital makes a really great product that will modify your speed signal and give the speedometer the correct signal.



I was able to pick up one of these units for $80 bucks off ebay. They have great instructions and work very well. One thing I wish they had was a dual switch that would allow me to switch between two different settings, such as for 37" and 35" tires. That wold be cool.

So, there you go, this is how you can get a working speedometer after removing ABS sensors from your rig. Now, I remind you, this was done on a '99 4Runner Limited. Does this mean that all colored wires are the same for your rig? No. I would use this information as more of a guide than step by step factual instructions for your rig. As well, just because I have stated that this is working for me, doesn't mean it will work for you. I don't know wha the electrical issues are on your rig. You may end up trying this and shorting out your Combination Meter. Take responsibility for your actions and research what you are doing before you do it.

PLEASE ABIDE BY THE RULES AND DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD

SteveO

The below info was taken from my website:


I have the stock Multi-matic 2 speed transfer case that comes with the '99 4Runner limited. This transfer case has a push-button 4WD switch on the side of the transfer case lever that allows 4WD on dry pavement. This is great if the weather is spotty, maybe a little bit of snow in certain sections of the road. This condition can be exercised up to 62mph.

The lever can then be pulled back towards the driver, and shifted into 4-Hi. This condition is good for dirt roads, muddy roads, but should not be used on dry pavement.

The lever can then be pushed to the right, and forward and put into 4-Lo. This action will engage the transfer case into its lowest gear and lock the transfer case so it splits the power 50/50 front and rear. In stock mode, if the Grey wire mod had not been done, this is the only time you can engage the rear locker.



Since the Solid Axle Swap, I have modified the Transfer case mount. I'm using a FROR transfer case mount to hold the transfer case in position. I'm also considering making another mount to use the stock mounting location. This will give a more solid foundation for the transmission and transfercase.


Ok, how about the electronics of this beast you ask. Well, its not too bad after thinking it through and putting some relays into the mix.

First off, lets take a loot at some schematics and get a bearing on what is happening when the transfer case is moving from 2wd to 4wd.



Above are two pages to the 4wd ecu. Open these pages in different windows and reference them as we read along.

Here are the conditions and results of the transfer case:
Unfortunately, I can't have a table, so the conditions and results will be divided by basic lines.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Condition
Transfer case lever in the H2 position, 4WD button not pushed

Result
T3 (2-4 Select switch = open)
D30 (Detection switch [shift Diff Lock = open])
A10 (ADD Indicator switch = open)
4WD = OFF
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Condition
Transfer case lever in H4F position, 4WD button pushed

Result
T3(2-4 Select switch = closed)
D30 (Detection switch [shift Diff Lock = open])
A10 (ADD Indicator switch = closed)
Full time 4WD = ON;
Can drive on pavement, Combination meter 4wd indicator - greens tires light up
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Condition
Transfer case lever in H4L, 4WD button pushed or not pushed

Results
T3(2-4 Select switch = open or closed)
D30(Detection switch [shift Diff Lock = closed])
A10 (ADD indicator switch = closed)
4WD = ON, H4 for dirt road conditions, Combination meter 4wd indicator - green tires and orange center lights are illuminated
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Condition
Transfer case lever in L4L, 4WD button pushed or not pushed T3(2-4 Select switch = open or closed)

Result
D30 (Detection switch [shift Diff Lock = closed])
A10 (ADD indicator switch = closed)
4WD = ON, maximum torque to wheels, Combination meter 4wd indicator - green tires and orange center lights are illuminated
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



And to make it even more confusing, take a good look at this scanned 4WD ECU system outline. I have put a new notes in there to try and help decipher this info:



So what does all that mean, well.....it'll help your troubleshoot what switches should be open or closed. One thing that happens in a SAS (SAC) is that the front diff is removed. This also removes the A10 (Automatic Differential Disconnect Indicator) switch, on page one. When this switch is removed, moving into 4wd doesn't work so well. Sure shifting into Low 4 works, as this is a mechanical operation with the lever. But, H4 and Full time 4WD, no deal. Not to mention, those darn lights will blink at you all day until you get this straightened out and close the loops.

What I found, was when the A10 switch (ADD indicator switch) was open, the 4WD would not work properly. The 4WD system is waiting for the ADD sleeve to slide into position, closing this switch, before it will allow the Full time or H4 4WD to work. There are a couple of vacuum actuated valves (V4 and V5, page two) that control this sleeve and thus, allow this switch to be opened and closed. When the V5 (VSV - 4WD, ADD) valve is energized, the sleeve slides into the 4WD position. When the V4 (VSV - 2WD, ADD) sleeve is energized, the sleeve slides into the 2WD position. These vacuum valves are controled via the F7 (4WD ECU). This 4WD ECU detects the 4WD button, and transfer case lever movement, and attempts to enable or disable these valves.

As you can see, a relay is needed to move the A10 (ADD indicator switch) switch to the on position when needed. However, what do you use to switch the relay on and off. Since I don't have the V5 vacuum switch any more, I used this Green wire to energize/de-energize the relay. When I swtch into 4wd, the relay is engergized and the normally open relay closes the connection of the A10 switch, or rather it grounds it out. Then the 4WD ECU thinks the front diff is ready for the 4WD, and allows the transfer case to shift into 4wd. Recall, I don't really have an A10 switch, this was removed with the front IFS diff. But, I still have the wire that comes from the 4WD ECU that is running out to the phantom switch. So, it is this wire in reality that is being left open (when the relay is not energized) and closed when the V5 switch is energized. It all works very well, and very quickly.

Hope this can guide you a little in your endeavors of fixing your 4wd.

PLEASE ABIDE BY THE RULES AND DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD