Rear wheel seal
#21
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I saw that too. Bummer. I've got someone who will look at it with me when I get the time. The strange thing is that it has stopped leaking and the fluid level is right where it should be. I'm a bit perplexed, but we'll take it apart and have a look-see.
#22
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What about this idea...?
Marlin markets it's seals to allow for more axle deflection and misalignment without leaking. Assuming this isn't BS, it would indicate that the factory seal can only handle "X" amount of deflection before failing.
Now, if Grease Monkey "A" applies insane amount of down force to the vehicle via tie downs, in theory the axle could slightly deflect... thus causing the seal to open ever so slightly at the bottom for the duration of the drive. Perhaps having a gap only on bigger highway bumps with the bounce, but you get the idea. I am talking microns here... not huge amounts of deflection.
Anyway, when the vehicle was off loaded, axle returned to normal and stopped the leak, plus no real damage to the seal. Would explain the leak stopping and no noticeable reduction in diff oil height.
Just a theory...
I didn't know the Marlin seals wouldn't work for the newer vehicles. I am sure the factory are more than adequate. I just had the axle apart anyway and figured I'd give the Marlin set a try.
Probably doesn't apply to this situation, but with a prolonged heavy leak, the axle bearing can become contaminated with oil, effectively washing out the grease... and fail. If in doubt, I'd replace. When the bearing goes, the axle walks out of the housing... and that is very bad.
Check this out:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-ride-113260/
Marlin markets it's seals to allow for more axle deflection and misalignment without leaking. Assuming this isn't BS, it would indicate that the factory seal can only handle "X" amount of deflection before failing.
Now, if Grease Monkey "A" applies insane amount of down force to the vehicle via tie downs, in theory the axle could slightly deflect... thus causing the seal to open ever so slightly at the bottom for the duration of the drive. Perhaps having a gap only on bigger highway bumps with the bounce, but you get the idea. I am talking microns here... not huge amounts of deflection.
Anyway, when the vehicle was off loaded, axle returned to normal and stopped the leak, plus no real damage to the seal. Would explain the leak stopping and no noticeable reduction in diff oil height.
Just a theory...
I didn't know the Marlin seals wouldn't work for the newer vehicles. I am sure the factory are more than adequate. I just had the axle apart anyway and figured I'd give the Marlin set a try.
Probably doesn't apply to this situation, but with a prolonged heavy leak, the axle bearing can become contaminated with oil, effectively washing out the grease... and fail. If in doubt, I'd replace. When the bearing goes, the axle walks out of the housing... and that is very bad.
Check this out:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-ride-113260/
#23
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Can you clarify prolonged heavy leak? Like, mine has leaked maybe a half quart at the most over a week long period. I plan on fixing this weekend, but the bearing is brand new and the gear oil is fresh. Should I be concerned about the bearing?
#24
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Well... I personally can't truly clarify where the line would be drawn.
You'd have to make a judgment call once the axle is out. There are a lot of factors involved. I am betting if you are careful though, you could remove one side of the factory cartridge bearing seal and inspect the insides. Even repack at that point if need be.
We used to do that with bicycle and skateboard bearings of similar design. Of course, a skateboard doesn't support 4,000 pounds nor speed along at 75 miles per hour.
If in doubt, run it by a mechanic or replace to be safe.
You'd have to make a judgment call once the axle is out. There are a lot of factors involved. I am betting if you are careful though, you could remove one side of the factory cartridge bearing seal and inspect the insides. Even repack at that point if need be.
We used to do that with bicycle and skateboard bearings of similar design. Of course, a skateboard doesn't support 4,000 pounds nor speed along at 75 miles per hour.
If in doubt, run it by a mechanic or replace to be safe.
#25
Registered User
The newer trucks with ABS reluctor rings have a very skinny 'ring' for the inner seal to ride on.
First thing I'd do is pull the axle out, apply grease all over the ring, and slide it back in to check it's contact with the seal. If the ring is in the wrong place (cuz somebody doing the w/brg messed up) you can simply push/pull the ring back to the proper spot. It's a press fit. If you damage it, replace it with a new one, which is around $5 from your Toyota dealership.
Put a new genuine seal in, grease up the ring and check it's location again. If all is good, put it back together, top up the gear oil, and check it again in a few days.
Use brake cleaner to degrease and remove any residual gear oil from the backing plate so you can monitor for continued leakage.
Replace the breather plug, or install extended breathers to ensure that the housing isn't seeing pressure from expansion due to heat.
If it's still leaking, I'm going to guess that the axle(s) are not straight anymore, which entails replacement. Pull it out and have it checked by a machine shop. The updated axles are thicker at the flange connection, and require different bearings and seals and stuff.
HTH.
First thing I'd do is pull the axle out, apply grease all over the ring, and slide it back in to check it's contact with the seal. If the ring is in the wrong place (cuz somebody doing the w/brg messed up) you can simply push/pull the ring back to the proper spot. It's a press fit. If you damage it, replace it with a new one, which is around $5 from your Toyota dealership.
Put a new genuine seal in, grease up the ring and check it's location again. If all is good, put it back together, top up the gear oil, and check it again in a few days.
Use brake cleaner to degrease and remove any residual gear oil from the backing plate so you can monitor for continued leakage.
Replace the breather plug, or install extended breathers to ensure that the housing isn't seeing pressure from expansion due to heat.
If it's still leaking, I'm going to guess that the axle(s) are not straight anymore, which entails replacement. Pull it out and have it checked by a machine shop. The updated axles are thicker at the flange connection, and require different bearings and seals and stuff.
HTH.
#26
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Elvota - that's what my original theory was. You described it much better. Just enough deflection to cause a small gap between the seal and shaft. It was on top of the truck for 4 days and I'm sure the swaying back and forth could have allowed the oil to come out that side. I have pictures of the underside of the truck from Andy and it does show the inside of the rear passenger tire. From what I can see, no signs of a leak. It happened ONLY during transport.
I guess when I got home from work on Friday to see that it leaked more, it was the rest of the oil I could not wipe that was between the drum and backing plate. Because it hasn't dripped since then.
I guess when I got home from work on Friday to see that it leaked more, it was the rest of the oil I could not wipe that was between the drum and backing plate. Because it hasn't dripped since then.
#27
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All fixed...
Both seals were blown with the passenger side hemorraging something unreal. The backing plate was completely gooped with oil. Both sets of rear shoes were completely soaked, too. So no it had nothing to do with the transporting, but I'm sure the tie down didn't help at all.
Thanks for all the insight and help.
Both seals were blown with the passenger side hemorraging something unreal. The backing plate was completely gooped with oil. Both sets of rear shoes were completely soaked, too. So no it had nothing to do with the transporting, but I'm sure the tie down didn't help at all.
Thanks for all the insight and help.
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