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Toytec lift for tacoma

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Old 11-04-2005, 01:43 PM
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Toytec lift for tacoma

Hey guys my little brother has a 1999 toyota tacoma 4wd. He just got his toytec lift in and needs me to help him install it. I am not that fimiliar with tacomas. He got the front 3" spacers and the rear 2" shackles with replacement pro comp 1000 shocks and brake proportioning valve bracket. He has manual hubs and has not ordered the diff drop. I think I remember reading somewhere that the tacomas needed a longer rear brake line too. I am not sure and was wondering if anyone knows for sure. Also does anyone know if the OEM studs are to be reused for the spacers? It says in the instructions that longer studs are supplied, but it did not come with any and I dont see it included with the kit on their web page.
Thanks

Last edited by HarrisonP; 11-04-2005 at 01:48 PM.
Old 11-04-2005, 06:46 PM
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3" for the front and 2" for the rear?
Depending on what your brother is going to do with the truck you might need to get an extended brake line. You'll be fine for street performance so you can put the lift on and see how much the line will be extended at droop and act accordingly before you hit the trails. I put in 2 1/2" AALs in the rear and didn't do the brake line extension. My Tacoma doesn't go out offroad though.

I think the Toytec lift spacers don't need aftermarket studs. Those are the ones where you don't need to disassemble the OEM coilover, right?
If the instructions call for longer studs you should call up Toytec and you have send the parts. Either that or you can just go to the local hardware store and find the right parts Grade 8.
Old 11-04-2005, 07:55 PM
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I had a 99 tacoma with a 2.5" rear lift (AAL) and did do the longer brake line. It is easy and cheap. The stock one can get stretched and that could cause a leak. Not worth the risk. The guys at Toytec are good to go. Call or e-mail them with ?'s.
Old 11-05-2005, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude
3" for the front and 2" for the rear?
It's for leveling the front and rear. As I'm sure your Tacoma-owning self is aware that the butt sticks up a little bit.
Old 11-06-2005, 12:13 AM
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I guess I'm the only one that likes it that way... With my 3" up front and the 2.5" AALs on sagging leafs in the rear I'm not completely satisfied with my truck's stance right now.
Old 11-07-2005, 05:34 PM
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Ok guys got part of the lift done this weekend. Front only took a little over an hour, very similar to the cornfed I have up front. Turns out he DID need longer studs, this is because with the 3" lift they use a 2" lift spacer in the pack, then a 1" top out spacer. Just used some grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nuts. We ran into a little problem with the back. Both of the bolts, on each spring, that go through the eyes of the leaf spring have seized in place. We cut them off and tried to press them out in a 20 ton press and they didn't budge. I figure that we can just push the whole bushing out of the spring and order the new ones from toyota and replace them. Has anyone else run into this problem? The truck is origionally from Penn. and I figure the salt may have something to do with it because most of the nuts and bolts on the truck are stuck on pretty good. Also it looks like the brake line isn't going to have that much slack in it when the lift is completed. I will stuff the axle and see if there is any tension on the line when we are done.
Thanks

Last edited by HarrisonP; 11-07-2005 at 05:36 PM.
Old 11-08-2005, 04:37 PM
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I think you will have to cut some of the exhaust too. Atleast thats what the website says if you use the 2'' shackels.

Keep us updated on how it goes. I've got mine coming to me in the mail right now!!
Old 11-08-2005, 08:17 PM
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We'll see, got the bushings ordered and am waiting to put them in when they get here. I am assuming that they have to be pressed into the spring eyes, seeing as how hard to old ones were to get out.
Old 11-09-2005, 07:47 AM
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Did you extend the front brake lines? I've heard that you should also do that if you want to do it right.
Old 11-09-2005, 01:39 PM
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No, but I we haven't got the truck drivable yet to see what else it needs. If it does I will let you know.
Old 11-17-2005, 12:32 PM
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How did it go? I just got my alcan aal's and OME springs in today. I'll probably be putting them on next tues. Any advice?
Old 11-20-2005, 07:03 PM
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Everything is on and the truck is now drivable. I checked the brake lines with the tires stuffed and there is plenty of slack in the line. Still think he should get a diff drop, the cv's are at a nasty angle. No rush considering he has manual hubs. Good luck with the lift, hope you don't run into the problems I did.
Old 11-22-2005, 04:09 PM
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did you unclip the front brake lines or anything like that? Just wondering cause I heard you had to do that from someone.

I juust got done putting in OME coils. Im gonna do the AAL tomorrow. Right now im driving a saggy ass truck.
Old 11-22-2005, 05:55 PM
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No, didn't have any need to unclip the line. I checked over everything very good, then rechecked. Once you get it done, you should check it to make sure though.
Old 11-22-2005, 07:33 PM
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alright cool. thanks for the info man.
Old 11-28-2005, 07:38 PM
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I'm very familiar with ToyTecLifts, the people that own it, and thier products so if anyone has any questions you can feel free to ask. I've wheeled with the guys that own it and they're awesome people to work with. Reading through this thread, I want to clarify some things that were said,,,

1. You shouldn't need to extend the front brake lines but if you really want to for the extra security, it's your money. At most, you might want to remove the clips holding them in place but it's not necessary.
2. For a 3" spacer lift, longer studs should've been supplied and it was probably an honest mistake. If you were to have called them, I have no doubt they'd help you out. Otherwise, as you did, Home Depot grade 8 bolts will work just as well.
3. Rear brake lines should be replaced in my opinion but it's not required if you're truck is a street queen. If you're wheeling it, however, then you should fork over the extra money for the extended brake lines. For the safety of the people you wheel with, the last thing you want is to be cheap on your brakes and lose them on a trail!
4. My truck was stored in northern NH for two years a while back and it had a similiar problem you had with rusting. We cut the ends of the bolts off and then drilled through the bolt to break it out piece by piece. I also needed to seperate the springs to install an AAL. We ended up prying each individual spring apart and, of course, buying a new center bolt. You should buy a new one anyway in my opinion. If you can't find one in a local off-road shop, I've also used a 3/8" bolt. Remember to use at least a grade 8 bolt.
5. With a little bit of persuasion and prying, you don't have to cut off the exhaust at all to add a 2" shackle lift. I've helped others install the lift and we just bent the tail pipe to go out towards the rear.
6. New bushings should be able to be popped in with a hammer and vice. Put the springs in a vice, coat the bushing with a little bit of water-based lubricant and push it in as far as you can with your fingers. When it don't go in anymore, whack it with a BFH!
7. Diff Drop,,, this is a questionable one. Anyone going more than 2.5" on a Tacoma should get the diff drop. It's a whole lot cheaper than new CV joints! I say it's questionable because I have a Fabtech 6" lift crossmember under the front of my truck and the diff is only brought down 4". Then I have a 1" spacer lift to match the rear of my truck. This puts my CVs at a steep angle. I have the ADD, Lockrights F/R and wheel the ever living heck out of her. Yet I haven't brocken a CV yet. (knocks on wood)

I hope this information helps. I'm not "all-knowing" but I've had lots of experience installing various Tacoma lifts and feel pretty confident in my ability to install any lift on one up to 3".
Old 11-29-2005, 06:52 AM
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LtL Red, If I would've known that about a week ago I would've supplied the beer for you to be at my house last weekend!
Old 11-29-2005, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ltl_Red1

4. We ended up prying each individual spring apart and, of course, buying a new center bolt. You should buy a new one anyway in my opinion. If you can't find one in a local off-road shop, I've also used a 3/8" bolt. Remember to use at least a grade 8 bolt.
They sent longer bolts with mine. All i had to do was cut off the excess after the spring pack was put back together. AAL's are really an easy install.

I like the ppl from Toytec. They sent me AAL's instead of shackels at no extra charge because the shackels were backordered. Good company!
Old 11-29-2005, 12:28 PM
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Old 12-01-2005, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by yellowspeedracer
LtL Red, If I would've known that about a week ago I would've supplied the beer for you to be at my house last weekend!
I'll still take the beer anyway!!!

LOL I'm just kidding. I would've done it for free as long as we could've gone wheeling afterwards to test things out. I don't drink alcohol anyway.


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