Offroad Tech Discussion pertaining to additions or questions which improve off-road ability, recovery and safety, such as suspension, body lifts, lockers etc
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 10:38 AM
  #21  
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I've ran a 4" Pro-Comp stage 2 and 3" body lift for over ten years and I've never broken anything. My truck does alright off-road and rides great on the road.



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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 11:06 AM
  #22  
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So back to the original question, does anybody have a preference for ifs lift kits. It needs to be bolt on and I don't want to have to buy a wheel with special backspacing. I was thinking skyjacker because it has machined spindle spacers instead of cast and from what I have heard that is stronger. Also I have read that 1988 and older trucks have a frame that is about 1/4" wider than 1989 and newer trucks and skyjacker seems to have a different part number for the lift kit for the older trucks, I am not sure if this is the reason or not but it makes me feel better that everything will line up. Other than that, they all seem to be about the same.

Last edited by 88toypickup; Apr 23, 2008 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:29 PM
  #23  
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get some bj spacers /ome torsions and some mudders and go wheeling till you can save up for gears and lockers with bigger tires-

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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:56 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 88toypickup
So back to the original question, does anybody have a preference for ifs lift kits. It needs to be bolt on and I don't want to have to buy a wheel with special backspacing.
Originally Posted by tc
IMHO you should leave the body lift and uncrank the tbars (or at least do balljoint spacers) and get rid of the add-a-leaf in favor of some Alcan springs. This would be plenty to run 33x12.50, maybe even 35's since it sounds like you don't wheel much.
I don't recall you ever answering what size tire you're looking to fit ...
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 02:47 PM
  #25  
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Like most of the guys here, I'd also recommend SAS over the IFS lift. Having said that, I have a 4" Pro Comp Stage II. It is a second generation rig, but the front end is the same as I understand it. I ran that kit on my '92 for about 6 years, then pulled it off and installed on my '94 daily driver. It is comfortable to drive on road (which is where my truck stays 90% of the time lately) and performs well off road. I'm running 33x12.50s on 15x10 rims. I invested a couple grand on the lift, tires and wheels. Within a couple of months I really wished I would have spent the addition cash and gone for the SAS. If you are looking to run 33s, I've seen a lot of guys doing just that with ball joint spacers and add a leafs on the rear. My suggestion: spend the money on tires, get a new set of springs for the rear and drop the ball joint spacers on the front. That way when you turn to the darkside and decide to cut the IFS off you won't have so much invested in the current lift. Believe me, you will want a solid axle sooner or later, we can't resist it.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #26  
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Are you sure I could get away with 33's with just a ball joint spacer and an add-a-leaf. I don't want to have my torsions cranked anymore, my truck rides too rough.

Last edited by 88toypickup; Apr 23, 2008 at 04:33 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 04:42 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 88toypickup
Are you sure I could get away with 33's with just a ball joint spacer and an add-a-leaf. I don't want to have my torsions cranked anymore, my truck rides too rough.
i run bj spacers w/ fenders and stock rear springs (no lift) and 33x10.50's but you'll need gears if you go up to 33's

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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 05:27 PM
  #28  
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I am already running 4.88 gears and 33's.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 06:03 PM
  #29  
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From: Nelson/Kelowna BC, Saskatoon SK Canada
my truck sits on 33x10.5s with no t-bar lift or ball join spacer in there, it's completely stock, but not for long. I only get minor rubbing on the plastic inner fender.

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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:34 PM
  #30  
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I have 33x12.50s with just a spacer lift

just take out the BL and run it.. if you arent going to wheel every weekend then you dont need a straight axle

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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 10:07 PM
  #31  
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I would not buy a IFS lift. If you need clearance for more tire and don't want a body lift cut the fenders and be done with it. It won't take much to clear 33's on totally stock suspension.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 10:31 PM
  #32  
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I'm pretty new suspension myself, so I'm doing a lot of research. What i've come across so far that gave me some good info was the nov/dec 07 issue of 4wd Toyota owner magazine about IFS vs. SAS. It basically said that IFS can do much of what SAS can do with driver knowledge. Some of the sites below have a bunch of different suspension systems for IFS and SAS
http://downeyoff-road.com/
http://allprooffroad.com/
http://www.demello-offroad.com/catalog/
http://www.marlincrawler.com/
http://downeyoff-road.com/Suspension...s/1986-95.html
http://toyotaoffroadparts.com/
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:42 AM
  #33  
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Even with my 4" lift I still get tire rub when I have the front wheels turned to full lock and flexed. The tire lugs grab the front fenderwell liner. I think that may have more to do with the tire width than the diameter though. Then again, maybe not.

My experience is that I spent a heap of cash on what I feel is an inferior lift. Had I known better, I would have gone the ball joint spacer route. That way it wouldn't hurt so bad to yank it all out only to spend another heap of cash on a SAS. Then again, I have just about as much fun modifying my truck as I do wheeling it. It is a sickness...
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:57 AM
  #34  
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X2. I ran the SDORI balljoint spacer lift along with a rear AAL/shackle for many years. When my alignment could not longer be set because of the damage from wheeling, I reached that proverbial fork in the road. The SAS had more benefits especially since it costs less than an IFS lift kit (but I did all the work). Even with the ball joint spacers, my 31x12.5x15's would hit the inside of the wheel well. I ended up pounding down the seam but it was not enough at full lock/with the tire stuffed. Now I have my axle moved forward and am running 37's with no clearance issues.

Originally Posted by toomanytoyotas
Even with my 4" lift I still get tire rub when I have the front wheels turned to full lock and flexed. The tire lugs grab the front fenderwell liner. I think that may have more to do with the tire width than the diameter though. Then again, maybe not.

My experience is that I spent a heap of cash on what I feel is an inferior lift. Had I known better, I would have gone the ball joint spacer route. That way it wouldn't hurt so bad to yank it all out only to spend another heap of cash on a SAS. Then again, I have just about as much fun modifying my truck as I do wheeling it. It is a sickness...
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 06:15 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by toomanytoyotas
Even with my 4" lift I still get tire rub when I have the front wheels turned to full lock and flexed. The tire lugs grab the front fenderwell liner. I think that may have more to do with the tire width than the diameter though. Then again, maybe not.
Width and rim backspacing cause FAR more tire fitment issues than diameter. Perfect example:

Originally Posted by seafarinman
Even with the ball joint spacers, my 31x12.5x15's would hit the inside of the wheel well. I ended up pounding down the seam but it was not enough at full lock/with the tire stuffed.
31x10.50 is STOCK, 33x10.50 will fit with no issues, and yet 31x12.50 with 1.5" of lift rubbed - it's all about the scrub radius.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 06:32 AM
  #36  
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So I guess I will try running ball joint spacers. I will probably end up with the 1.5" 4crawler ones because I don't know of anybody else that sells them. Then if it still rubs I will get new rims with less backspacing. and if that still doesn't work maybe I will try bushwasker cut out flares. I've been wanting new rims for a long time and I eventually wanted to put cut out flares in too. I think that even if I have to do all of this it will still come out to a little less than a suspension lift. Unless does anybody know if I could get away with just the cut out flares and not the ball joint spacers.

Last edited by 88toypickup; Apr 24, 2008 at 06:34 AM.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 07:33 AM
  #37  
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The Bushwacker cut out flares for the 84-88 pickup are called "Cutout" but you don't actually cut any metal out(seriously. Read the directions!!). I have a set on my 87 truck. If you actually cut the fenders out then they will not be properly supported on the bottom of the flare. I recommend if you can get away with it to simply cut the sheetmetal and not install the flares. I am running 38x12.5x15 TSL's on 3.75" BS wheels and they don't stick out very far. I have cracked my right rear flare already on the trail. They are expensive and not very durable, and IMO not worth the high price either. BTW I got mine-an unused 6 year old set for $250 which was a decent price as I didn't pay full retail on them.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 08:01 AM
  #38  
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I won't lie to you, I have never installed a set of bushwacker cutouts, but according to the installation instructions at Bushwacker.com you cut out an inch around the fenders.

Last edited by 88toypickup; Apr 24, 2008 at 08:08 AM.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:04 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by seafarinman
The Bushwacker cut out flares for the 84-88 pickup are called "Cutout" but you don't actually cut any metal out(seriously. Read the directions!!). I have a set on my 87 truck. If you actually cut the fenders out then they will not be properly supported on the bottom of the flare. I recommend if you can get away with it to simply cut the sheetmetal and not install the flares. I am running 38x12.5x15 TSL's on 3.75" BS wheels and they don't stick out very far. I have cracked my right rear flare already on the trail. They are expensive and not very durable, and IMO not worth the high price either. BTW I got mine-an unused 6 year old set for $250 which was a decent price as I didn't pay full retail on them.

aye, have you ever seen bushwacklers rip a fender off? It aint pretty.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:41 AM
  #40  
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Wow 88 toy, You are a carbon copy of me! I want to get rid of my 3inch body lift and Iam also trying to figure out what lift to run. I have 33 inch cooper stt's on mine and I am at a complete loss as to what Lift I should run. Iam leaning twords the BJ Spacers but I dont want to cut the upper control arm. Can you run 33's stock? By the way I have a black 88 too..
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