So how would you guys rate the cable system install on a scale from 1 to 10?

1 being a headlight bulb change and 10 being a complete engine rebuild.

Just curious.

 

Installing it doesn't look like it would be very difficult. There's only like 2 bolts and a nut holding on the electric actuator. I'm sure you'll need to release tension on the shift rod detent "pill" if it has one, can't remember. Then remove the shift rod and it's cap. I'm not sure if you'll have to pull the diff in order to get to the shift rod, as I don't know if they somehow attach to it or replace it.


I'll give you $20 for your old actuator.

 

Shane-

I really don't think I am going to take this route, but I need to keep my options open.

I wish I didn't suck so bad at wiring. Definitely not my fortay!

 

Hey, it took me a few tries before I got it right but they (I have two in my truck) work wonderfully now. Nothing like powering up the ECU and watching it immediately drive the locker all the way to one extreme and get stuck. If you need some help with it start up a post and give us as much info on what you've done as you can.

 

It's more like 3-4. The hard part is to line up everything so the shaft gooes in/out smoothly after you've tighten everthing. I've spend probably about 30% of the time doing that.
oh, you don't need to take the diff out. When you take off the motor, there's a hole for the teeth that the motor use to move the shaft in/out. I used a flat head screw driver to move the shaft out pretty easily.

 

Toyota designed their e-locker to survive in the middle of nowhere, where your vehicle is your survival. If electrical conections fail, it will still work. If i were to ever run selectable spools in a toy, i would run e-lockers.

 

Don't you wish. Its just by chance that it can be manually locked and unlocked. Not to mention it is not that easy to do and there is no promise it will stay that way. But thanks for making stuff up and giving it a very dramatic flare. Its not like you can't fix an ARB on the trail. Granted it is an involved process, but not impossible. Most failures are due to bad installs as a couple others said. A properly installed and well cared for ARB will not let you down.

As dragr1 mentioned I have the downey cable conversion. It is total crap and would suggest that no one buy it. I would rant more about it but I think I have done so already in another thread...

 

I say go with the ARB. It's nice having the air compressor there for other things like fill tires, run air tools, etc. It's the more useful all around option, IMO. I remember when somebody first retro-fitted the e-locker to fit in a 8" pumpkin. It was done as a cheaper alternative to getting an ARB. Plus, if you decide you want to lock the front one day also, they have an ARB for that now, and the compressor will already be there.

Oops, just realized you have a '96, so your rear end wouldn't require any mods for the e-locker to fit. I still say go ARB though.

 

Just remember not to buy the ARB compressor as none of the things listed as pros in this post are realistic with it...

 

Mabye you should try it sometime so you can get your facts straight. Three bolts/nuts to remove, pop the actuator off, slide the shift rod to the other position, reinstall the actuator. Easily done in under 5 minutes if you take your time. No promise it will stay that way? You obviously haven't seen the guts of one. It can't move on it's own with the actuator in there, totally impossible. I did it manually a few times before I finished the electrical work, never had a single problem.

 

Thank you Shane. Glad to see somebody else has actually done it as well.

44runner, sorry but the e-locker is designed to last even if it has no juice going to it. We get the dolled up versions here in the US, the rest of the world gets the vehicles i only wish i could get.

That said, i dont even like selectable spools, ill keep my detroit.

 

What's a good compressor to get? and by the way, where does everybody usually install them in a 4runner??

 

You can buy Extremeair or Viair and have it installed in the engine bay. Some of the guys here have it done that way. Check this thread out. here's a pic of an Extremeair mounted in the engine bay.

George

 

If only using the compressor for lockers, do you need an airtank?
I guess my question is a little off topic, but hey, it's helping me decide between arb and toyota e-locker

 

The ARB compressor comes with its own small built-in tank, no need for anything more if you're only running the lockers.
No need for a tank with any other compressor either really. The lockers use a very small amount of air. I have a York, and no tank.

 

I thought all non elocker axels had to be fitted with extra studs etc to do the retrofit elocker swap? what years are different?

 

Wow, way to dig up an old thread!

Yes, all pre-Taco 8" non-elocker housings (which were used in 3rd gen 4Runners too) require a notch to be cut and studs to be moved. I think the poster was referring to a Tacoma rear end that would require a full axle swap, as the Tacoma 8" diff housing is different.

As to the OP's question:
- ARB is stronger. Actual breakage of the locker is RARE. ARB locks/unlocks MUCH faster than elocker. Installation is a little more nit-picky to ensure no air leaks. Install accounts for >99% of the issues you hear about. If the locking mechanism fails, it fails "safe" - to an open diff. ARB is available for the slightly stronger Tacoma diff/housing.

- Elocker is factory, and therefore spare parts may be available in junkyards if necessary. Side gear failure is not unheard of, but usually with big tires. It will not fail safe, but can be locked or unlocked by hand by removing the actuator and moving the yoke.

Having driven both, the speed difference is what would make me choose ARB if given the decision again.

 

X100

 

Does anybody have any experiance with the eaton elocker? Seems like a good alternative

 

No Toyota applications.