I drove from chicago to NY to get my axle, just don't tell your wife you are getting it, just tell her you guys are going on a road trip then when you get there just act surprise
that should do it!!!

 

Last I heard, he plans on brining this to Moab in October. Can't wait to see it up close & on the trails!

 

That is really a good find from Front Range. I had only heard of those axles being made for Taco's, but the prospect of having a 60" wide front end to swap my runner so that I can avoid wheel spacers and have a newer, stronger axle really is a good one.

Anyone heard prices?

 

150 is pretty much the going rate for Waggy front 44s from a yard. Anything more than 200 and you are getting ripped off. They are strong, perfect width, and cheap, with a whole lot of aftermarket support which make them a great choice.

I think the custom 8" housing is sweet, but you have to shell out the money for it. Then more money for the custom length alloy inners to go with it which will make for expensive spares if you ever grenade them with the longfields you will undoubtably run. Once you have shelled out all this bread for your super trick 8" front, you still have an axle that you spent tons of money on that is still probably weaker than a boneyard 44 with Warns and CTMs (think warranty)

 

Custom Toy front housing, ballpark guesses/estimates only:
-housing $1,200
-Longfields $330
-Third, high-pinion ARB $1,500

For a touch over 3k, you are smoking.

What does it cost for Warn's and CTM's? What do high-pinion axles cost in the 44 flavor?

I personally like drop out thirds and completely matching gears, but that is just from the cheese point of view.

My understanding after reading assorted things is that the above Toy set-up would be pretty bombproof on 37's or smaller barring obscene beatings.

Having a 44 would allow tighter turning, but I am used to not turning anyway.

 

removed by moderator

 

From what I've seen, a Dana44 would be a good choice for a 3rd gen 4Runner, but only as long as you soop it up with Warn alloy axle shafts and CTM's. My buddy with the Isuzu Amigo (diff on the passenger side) has a '79 Waggy axle, dual cases, and 37's. He went through a lot of u-joints until he got the Warn axles and CTM's. Now he's breaking hubs or hub pieces, which is an easy swap. It's very noticeably stronger now. I think he has a grand in the upgraded front axle components, but I'm not sure.

I think coil-overs are a wise choice because you can tune them so well - both the spring rate and shock rate. They're more expensive than leafs and require a better suspension design, but I think they'd prove themselves worth it. Besides, leaf springs in front typically don't flex well when you're climbing. Most pics of front leafs show the axle not articulating much if any when the weight is on the rear wheels. Leafs require some weight on one wheel in order to get the cantilever action of forcing the other side down to the ground. Coil-overs always push the axle all the way to the ground or to the limit straps so it actually articulates as you're climbing up over rocks.

The 3.4L V6 oil pan from either the Tundra or T-100(?) offers more clearance for a SAS.

I'm pretty sure the stock width is 60", so about 63" would be ideal for a different axle.

 

I assume this was directed at me.

Yep, don't have a huge cash flow, still just a college student and as of 2 weeks ago, one without a job (quit so I can focus more on school and graduate this year). So you got me Steve...

I went with the if it ain't broke, don't fix it frame of mind on the axle shafts. My junk axle came with a perfectly good set, so I just slapped in some 760 joints and called it good enough. I carry a spare u-joint and stub shaft with me and that is all. First shaft I take out, I will swap over to Warns and CTMs.

Anyone that was in my group at EC4RJ saw me take on that nasty hill climb full throttle. It was the end of the day and I was testing out the new setup and seeing if I could find the breaking point. So I gave it hell and oddly enough, nothing broke. I mean I was trying to break it and it wouldn't give. Guess I'll have to try harder next time, I am itching to upgrade.

 

Damn straight you better. We dont care for pusses over here. While your at it, roll the damn truck and see if your sunroof can take a direct hit by a boulder.

Come on Dave! You mean after all that money you dropped on your SAS, crawler, locker, gears, tires ect...you cant afford Warns and CTM's?? Some people just dont get it. You know you could just marry some rich lady and live off her. Then you can pay people to do all the work for ya...

Mad props to ya Dave. Get any more trail pics lately?

 

I was just curious for a cost break down so that we could compare apples to apples, no poop flining, just curiousity.

The Front Range axle in that pic is 61" WMS to WMS, or about what a Taco/3rd Gen rear is.

My rear is 58" so I am thinking 60" would be bloody marvelous.

80 series cruiser axles are wider still. I suppose if the diff were right you guys could get away with it.

Can anyone tell me why a 3rd Gen could not just go crawler and get the diff on the passenger side to use Toy stuff?

 

Just go crawler?

You'd have to get a passenger side diff axle for the rear too (drive shaft, t-case, ect. wont line up with a mixed pair). Im sure there is LOTS of fab-work involved there as well. I bet you would have more fab than TOY...

 

Rear axles are centered, that should not be part of the equation.

No matter what tranny, you would have to cross to gear driven cases, why not, in the case of the auto as that is the one I know about, use the adaptor that already exists to get the passenger side drop for the front?

 

Find Chuck on TTORA...he was attempting it awhile ago on his taco. Dont know the end result if there is one yet...

You say "just go crawler" though. 44Runner has one in his. You get many more options with a passenger, but you still have one with driver.

About the rear...I thought the rear, even though centered, was angled such to support either a driver side or passenger side diff up front?? The rear isnt built semetrically, is it? Now that I think about it though, it would be a minor bump in the road if they are or arent.

 

BINGO! The only reason you could not is $$$.

Dana44 is cheaper and you can re-use the chain driven case, swap that out and a Toyota axle will bolt right up.

 

Here ya go: http://www.bentup.com/Photos/sc5.jpg

 

Ouch...its only noon and you are already pissy. I must say I miss your arrogant comments on 4x4wire. But I can see why you left...everyone thinks your king here. "If its approved by Steve, its good enough for me"

Me, SAS?? Sure why not...got nothing better to do with my inbred buddies. But why dont you? Ill sell ya my D44: http://www.poboytech.net/hosted/4Runner/solidaxle.jpg . Tell you what...I'll even find a shop to install it for ya.

 

I already did. I got the strongest thing out there. FJ-62 with 8 7/8" full floating diffs.

 

Store bought...no challenge

And why are you deleting your posts

 

The real reason is ease of installation, availability, and LASTLY cost. Switching to a passenger side output t-case would be a PITA. You have a crawler too Steve, even though you didn't put it in. Maybe that is why you are having trouble seeing why its not quite as easy as you think. Crawl up under that 3rd Gen of yours and take a good look at where the exhaust is (ask a friend if you can't find it or don't know what that is). Now think to yourself what would be in the way if you tried to put in a passenger side output t-case. Now, without running big rig style stacks or ankle burners (keeping the exhaust between the frame rails) tell us how you would keep the exhaust out of the way. Keep in mind that the driveshaft, t-case, and exhaust all move, and mostly independent from one another so think clearance.

Also keep in mind to run a mini truck axle, you would need to be running at LEAST 2.5" spacers on EACH side. That won't be good on your wheel bearings or your trunion (kingpin) bearings. So you would definately have to run a custom from front range or an FJ front. Now I don't know about where you guys live, but those things are not easy to find around here. In fact, I can truthfully say that I have been to every yard in this area and have never seen a single one. I can tell you that if I did find one, it certainly wouldn't be 150 bucks.

Switching the output and/or going toy axle just doesn't make any sense. Now going with a crawler and then a Dana 300, that would be kinda trick...

 

I'm trying to be nice. It's really hard though.

I think it must be a Jeep thing, I don't understand.


Keep it all TOYOTA. That's why I bought it.